70 510 wagon engine swap HELP?

[LenRobertson]

When you get time, look at the head casting numbers on both your heads. The number is raised letter/numbers on the passenger side of the head, toward the front, just above the top of the block. If your 1600 head is stock it will probably be numbered 210, but I'm curious if it is original. Also what head is on the L20 might make a difference in which exhaust manifold to run.

 

Also, look at the distributor on the L20 and let us know what it is. Points type? Electronic with black plastic "matchbox" on the side? Electronic with no matchbox? That one needs a remote location matchbox that you need to plan for.

 

Have you found a pedal set? I  might have an extra set to spare, but it would be better if you can find some locally. A wrecking lot will probably be cheaper than me, especially when postage is figured in. I'm pretty sure 610 pedals are the same as a 510, or close enough, if you stumble onto a 610. I don't know about 710s or any other Datsun  models.

 

You mentioned the L20 has been sitting awhile. Probably won't make any difference in anything except maybe the carb. And it may be fine. If your 1600 carb has been running good, you can stick it on if the L20 one isn't working okay.

 

Len

[510chamber]

Alright guys im back.. been a long weekend with the L16. But took the L20 apart and got the head pressure tested. the head does indeed have a crack. So i suppose im back to square one as far as throwing the 210 head on the L20 for a little while.  Len the distributor on the L20 i believe to be elec. with the Ign Mod. on the side of it. The rest of this block, cyl heads, etc. looks to be in great shape. Im going to clean this up and paint it before i get ready to start the swap. still waiting to grab my pedals had to throw some money at the L16 over the weekend ... little bit of a set back but I expected these things.

 

I am going to try out the Dog leg and see how it works. Now I'm curious... wil i still have to move my Xmember around for that?

And Len anyway to get a pic of that TO sleeve? not sure i understand what im looking for. Never done a swap like this.

Anyone know if i HAVE TO have datsun master and slave for this 5spd swap to work right? i cant seem to find a set.

 

Thanks guy, Ant

[ggzilla]

L20 electronic distributor is turned differently from L20B unit. Best to use an L20B one.

[LenRobertson]

Bummer on the cracked head. Sometimes heads can be welded up, but depends on where the crack is. Probably better to keep an eye out for a different head. The 210 head from your 1600 may do you fine for awhile, unless it pings like mad due to the high CR datzenmike mentioned. I don't know if running premium gas will be a good idea, but might help.

If your dizzy has the square black plastic box mounted on the side it is a "matchbox" dizzy. Presumably it was doing it's job in the L20b. You may need to fiddle with the timing due to the higher CR head. Maybe some else can give some direction there.

Here is a post that goes into the clutch sleeve thing:
http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30568-i-need-this/
Take a look at the charts on page 2 to see actual measurements of sleeves. But if the Z 5-speed was running with the L20 and you use the same clutch, then the TO bearing and sleeve from that tranny should work in the dogleg. Chances are you have a 225mm diameter clutch, so look on the chart and find the clutch sleeve for a 225mm pressure plate. Then measure the sleeve from the Z 5-speed to see if it is correct. On my car, I used an early Maxima flywheel, 280Z clutch, and the TO bearing and sleeve from a late '70s pickup 5-speed. It was a shock when it all actually worked together (Well, after I replaced the clutch cylinders).

Yes, you will need to do something different with the X-member even if you dogleg it. There is something a bit larger on 5-speed (dogleg or Z) case, so the X-member needs to be lowered about an inch so the tranny clears the tunnel. And the rear mount position for a 5-speed is slightly different than a 510 4-speed or auto. The x-member you got with the Z 5-speed should work since it was in a 510. I keep having this nagging thought that there is something different between sedan and wagon cross members. Maybe a totally false memory. Anyone know if they are the same or different?

Both clutch cylinders and rubber hose are available new pretty cheap. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php will give you an idea what is available and prices. Datsun shows up under Nissan. See if they show a master cylinder for your year 510. For the slave, look for one to fit '77 to '79 200SX. Those years used the dogleg tranny. I tried getting by with used cylinders on my swap and ended up replacing both of them almost the first thing (after a lot of screwing around and thinking I had the wrong clutch sleeve). You may end up having to make your own clutch hard line from the master cylinder down to the short rubber hose to the slave cylinder, if you can't find a parts car. Sure seems like there should be some parts 510s somewhere down where you are.

I think I may have missed a couple of your questions, but my mind is shutting down for the night. Time to get off the computer and go read a book. Yeah, some of us old guys still do that!

Len

[510chamber]

Just so happen to have one .. cool ill have pics posted tomorrow night but I'm a little concerned with the water pump housing... The front cover not sure what its really called but its been chewed up pretty good.

[510chamber]

Len .. rockatuo ... Awesome site my friend thank you. Made my day and the swap look a little less expensive than.I had planned thanks. All my years in hobby mechanics I have never run across this site.

[LenRobertson]

I have to admit I've never ordered from Rockauto, but they are mentioned all the time by folks here on Ratsun, so they must be okay. I probably need to place an order for some carb base gaskets and maybe another carb kit. It got up to 40F degrees this afternoon so I yanked the Hitachi off my 510. I reeealy hated to do it since the 510 was down for so many years and finally back to running (sort of). I'm afraid if it gets really cold I won't get the carb back on again until Spring. But with the huge bog down when giving it gas coming off idle, it really wasn't very drivable. I fiddled with it quite a bit on the engine and wasn't getting any improvement, so it had to come off, even if I replace it with a Weber. But I  don't want to admit I'm not smart enough to fix a Japanese carb; that I have to go to an Italian/Spanish one because it is "simpler". But maybe that is what I'll do in the end.

 

If you get near a parts car (or truck. I think 620s have the same part), look for the flat spring steel clip that holds the clutch rubber hose to the bracket down below the firewall. I'm not sure on your 510, but on '72s the bracket is welded on down there even on auto tranny cars. Look down beside the starter where the trans tunnel goes back from the firewall and see if you find a sheet metal tab with a hole in it welded to the side of the tunnel. That is where the clutch rubber line and hard line meet up and are held in place.  I can take a pic if none of this is making sense.

 

Len