mantas Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Well i got her all fired up and running pretty good. Still would not run this morning so i took off the carb and cleaned it with carb cleaner, made a paper gasket started her and did some adjustments to the carb. At the moment the engine is pretty dialed in, no more backfires or at least i couldnt get it to backfire the last few times i had her running. Once i get the timing light i'll do a bit more work but for now im spent, don't even want to look at that thing for a few days. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 15, 2012 Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Glad to hear it is running Chalk up one more reason not to use RTV. 1 Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Glad to hear it is running Chalk up one more reason not to use RTV. Quite honestly rtv would never work on that surface. I realized it when i seperated the carb from the adapter plate. Good call on that one. Been feeling kinda under the weather so im going to mock up the accelerator cable and leave that thing be until i have more energy for it. But im quite glad its running better. At least now when i play with the idle mixture screw it does make it run differently where as before it did nothing lol. Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Another weird problem? After the engine has been shut off for hours if i put my ear by the carb it sounds like a drop of fuel falls out of the jet every 10 seconds or so. But if i pop the top flap open it stops. Is this normal? Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted November 15, 2012 Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 w53 is l18 head if it is closed chamber you got lucky Fo sho Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted November 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 Got her running pretty good. Did a little butt dyno tuning and was quite surprised how quick this thing moves for a little 100hp engine. My damn throttle cable kept getting stuck so it was all go or nothing. Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Another update. It runs great, but my ignition wiring must be jacked up, when i turn the key i have to hold it half way turned for the car to stay on otherwise it dies. Anyone know what this may be? Change the ignition cylinder with a new one and still the same problem. Sometimes it magically fixes itself, and when i turn the key off sometimes the engine won't shut off, it will keep on shaking violently in an attempt to keep running. Any help would be appreciated. Otherwise this thing drives good besides the occasional hickup and backfire - gotta clean the carb i think the primary jet is leaking, may be flooding? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 when i turn the key i have to hold it half way turned for the car to stay on otherwise it dies Could be the Run wire is disconnected on the resistor. And is only running on the Start wire. To test this, measure voltage at coil. Is it dead with engine off, key in RUN? i turn the key off sometimes the engine won't shut off, it will keep on shaking violently in an attempt to keep runningThat's called dieseling, and is what the anti-diesel valve is for. It's unrelated to hold-the-key-partway problem. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Run on after key off? Try premium gas. the start switch. I reseat the plug in back of the cylinder a couple times in case of corrossion. Or ck like GGzilla said. with key to ON you should have 12volts to the ballast resisitor then out the ballast is about 6 volts to the coil. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Unless the engine is stopped where points are open. Then you'll have 12V on both sides of the resistor. So just make sure there is Voltage at the resistor. If 0 volts that is the problem -- it's not getting voltage. Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Well i'll get into the testing a bit later but i basically had to rewire half my harness running to the cylinder. It was all corroded and probably shorting. Then i found out one of the + wires going to the coil was corroded and was probably arcing to the frame. So i have the dash out, the harness out, and i found a few other wires that need to be take care off. Once its all back in i'll see if the problem persists. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 had to rewire half my harness running to the cylinder????????What??????? Only the + wire going to the coil or the spark plug wire would be related to #2. If the +12coil wire it would be all cylinders that would be bad not just #2.the rotor directs the spark to the cap then to the plug wire to the cylinder and if compression then it will light off Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted November 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 had to rewire half my harness running to the cylinder????????What??????? Only the + wire going to the coil or the spark plug wire would be related to #2. If the +12coil wire it would be all cylinders that would be bad not just #2.the rotor directs the spark to the cap then to the plug wire to the cylinder and if compression then it will light off Most of the wires runing to they key cylinder, or ignition switch were bad, i guess thats what i was trying to say but failed. They were old and cracked, probably because the key cylinder was replaced a few times and the wires were left to hang. Then the +12 wire to the dizzy was so old that it had no insulation around it and was a couple of mm's from touching the frame. In either case, i went through the whole harness and checked each wire for corrosion, found about 4 that needed to be fixed, otherwise everything else was ok. Also used some electrical tape to tie up the wires. Before: Harness1 by onedolla99cents, on Flickr After: Harness2 by onedolla99cents, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 That's the way to do it! Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted November 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Well the wiring solved the starting problem and seems like it shuts off right away. The fact that it fires right up and i don't have to hold the key is good enough for me. Decided to paint the dash. Used plastic paint that i had left over from painting the cowl on my s14. It should last, but in either case its a lot better looking than it was before. Untitled by onedolla99cents, on Flickr This is the uglyness under the dash. Painted the vents and steering wheel adapter. Untitled by onedolla99cents, on Flickr Cleaned the wiring harness in the engine bay as well because i like wire tucks. Untitled by onedolla99cents, on Flickr I know it does not look like my rb25 but i tried hahaha. Untitled by onedolla99cents, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 pretty clean rigs Quote Link to comment
mantas Posted November 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 pretty clean rigs Thank you sir, but both are nowhere near completion. I can't wait to post up a few dash pix, came out really nice compared to what it looked like before. I'll even tackle the cracks in the dash when i have a moment. Quote Link to comment
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