Quaife vs. OBX: dead horse?

[ComicArtist]

So, I really need an LSD of some sorts. Having that problem when I go up a driveway at an angle I lift my drivers side wheel off the ground and sit spinning. And I really don't want to just weld the diff.

 

Now, I've read up on this debate a lot, and it appears that there are very mixed opinions, which is why I'm asking you guys.

 

Some guys say OBX is complete garbage. I can understand this, they're manufactured cheaper and I believe have a cast ring gear instead of forged.

 

On the other hand, some say if you treat and maintain it right, the OBX is well worth getting, due to the $1000 difference from the Quaife.

 

I'm going to be dailying it, with possibly an occasional auto-x or drift sesh, but very rarely.

 

I don't want to do a Z31 or Z32 swap.

 

My question is, which one are YOU running, which problem did YOU run into, and why did YOU make the choice YOU did? I don't want to know what you heard or read on the Internet, I want real life experience.

 

Thanks!

[xlr8r]

OBX is cast everything on the inside but works.

However, neither are going to solve your one wheel in the air problem. They act like open diffs when one wheel gets off the ground. You'll probably want a clutch type if your main qualm is a wheel spinning when it's off the ground.

[datrod]

I don't know what a OBX is. But I have a Quaife in my auto x 240Z. It makes alot on noise, But that's fine for a track car. I also have a Nissan Comp clutch type in my street Z works pretty good.

 

I ran it in my race car for years,(Nissan comp) Then I got a smokin geal on a Quaife, The Quaife works much better than the Nissan Comp unit for auto X. For street driving I like the comp unit 3:90 with a 5 Sp is really nice.

 

I think for what your going to do with it the OBX with the $1000.00 smaller price tag will do fine. If your going to do alot of track stuff then Quaife is the way to go.

[ComicArtist]

I thought the OBX was a clutch type?

[Stupid_fast]

I thought the OBX was a clutch type?

 

OBX is helical. I was thinking of one for my ZX, but I'd rather a clutch type for my driving style.

 

 

This for your Z ? Helical diffs never lock, so it won't solve your problem. Need clutch type or locker diff for maor low. OR, smaller rear sway bar and add more droop to suspension.

[ComicArtist]

Well piss. Clutch type is going to cost an arm and a leg. I wouldn't mind, but I'm about to drop major bucks on new coils, RCA's, LCA's, TC rods, rear discs, ect.

[Stupid_fast]

Well piss. Clutch type is going to cost an arm and a leg. I wouldn't mind, but I'm about to drop major bucks on new coils, RCA's, LCA's, TC rods, rear discs, ect.

 

Junkyard Z31 clutch type still too expensive ?

[ComicArtist]

Z31's have clutch type? I thought the only Z31's with LSD were the kouki turbos, and they only had vlsd's

[Stupid_fast]

Yeah my bad, its the 4/87-89 Nissan 300ZX Turbo cars that have the clutch type LSD. All the rest had open, and the 88SS had a viscous.

[ComicArtist]

Hm I might just pick one of those up then. I know where I can get one for $45 too.

[I'm BLUE]

Hm I might just pick one of those up then. I know where I can get one for $45 too.

 

....... well now you're just bragging ,,, :lol: ,,, pick it up for that !!!

 

Make damn sure it's a long-nosed R200 diff and you pop the case before buying a possible cool-paper-weight

[ComicArtist]

Will do!

[Tice]

Don't want to thread-steal, but, I have been eyeballing this one for a while, for my Daily/Auto-X 280Z... It's the OSG Super-lock Has anyone had any experiance with it?

If I'm correct in assuming, it's a 1.5-way locking diff (Locks fully under acceleration and partially under braking) and is a clutch style, with up to 28 plates.