Ben280 Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 Ok, so, my Z is pretty good on rust except for in ONE spot. Just inside the driver side headlight bucket is totally rotted away. Looks like an impact did some metal crinkling and a botched repair job didn't fix the problem. Now, I say impact because the drivers side of the core support is all crunched up and bad looking. That combined with general rustiness around the radiator has got me thinking. My question for all you fellow ratsunners out there is how to best fix this nonsense. Seems like i could spend a lot of time wire wheeling away crap and patch welding over old metal, OR I could find a donor car and cut its nose off! Chop somewhere about a foot in front of the strut towers, dont want to mess up my suspension geometry, and weld in a whole new front end. I'm sure somebody has tips on this, and I'm sure it will be an ordeal either way! need some advice though on what route to take. Quote Link to comment
Dat Lurka Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 You could find a donor car and cut its nose off! Chop somewhere about a foot in front of the strut towers, dont want to mess up your suspension geometry, and weld in a whole new front end. Quote Link to comment
Ben280 Posted August 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 You could find a donor car and cut its nose off! Chop somewhere about a foot in front of the strut towers, dont want to mess up your suspension geometry, and weld in a whole new front end. Haha, this sounds familiar! Any tips on the best way to do it? should i weld in bracing so to avoid flex? Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 We really need pics and measurements to help deduce a better solution :) You need to pull it out back to where it should be before any cutting is to begin. I would not just start lopping shit off or attempt a nose transplant just because ( could be a nightmare ... could) Yes ... always use jigs and braces ... the engine really should be out of the rig (depending on how much is to be replaced and where) A lot of stuff going on ... 1 Quote Link to comment
Ben280 Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 We really need pics and measurements to help deduce a better solution :) You need to pull it out back to where it should be before any cutting is to begin. I would not just start lopping shit off or attempt a nose transplant just because ( could be a nightmare ... could) Yes ... always use jigs and braces ... the engine really should be out of the rig (depending on how much is to be replaced and where) A lot of stuff going on ... Thanks! This helps to get the ball rolling, although this will probably be a winter project. Pull the motor and paint the engine bay while I'm at it! Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 If you live near Clackamas. Clackamas steel is my favorite metal yard. They sell per foot $$$ They also have a scrap section per pound $$$ ^^1"x1" square steel tubing .120 wall tubing is about $1.50 per foot. Doesn't have to be .120 wall 20-gauge 4ftx4ft sheet metal should be around $36.00 POR-15 with prep products might be a good friend here lol :) Goonfan is trying to graph on a larger front section clip .. with a TIG welder ... I would strongly advise pm'ing him for some possible insight/second choices :) I have straightened out/cut/repaired/re-welded an s30 core supppet area before ... (1) never goes as planned lol (2) always takes longer than you think 2x as rule of thumb. (3) during lortions of the lroject you wished you didn't touch it lol (4) flux-core welder is fine on my rig ... gas is great for finish For this project take the time you think it's going to benchmark to (timeline) and times it x3 or x4. If I am right ... and what zcars are prone to in general ... you are going lopp off fromt sections of the frame rail @ core support flash a light down them/clean them out ... And see you are likely going to want to replace/repair them ... lol ... no seriously. they rot from inside out.(many look fine on outside) firewall attachment area of frame bay frame rails cold be problematic as well ( are/were on my s30's when paint scraped off) if not already done ... and potentially rusty ..the battery tray area as well ! As a rule of thumb ... s30 sheet metal work "can" turn into a can of never ending worms lol. Brace and Jig things in many places as you work on the frame area and you should be ok :) I wouldn't go into this over confidently ... at any point ... lol :) Quote Link to comment
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