swamp_rat Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 i'll possibly be getting a mid 70's 620 soon and want to put a diff engine in it. at first i was thinking a 240sx engine but i read that with some swaps you have to fab all kindda stuff. the truck is already a standard so i think i would like to keep it standard. if i go to a fuel injected engine, what all would i have to do and take from the vehicle to retain the fuel injection and what would i have to do for it to work in the 620? i want something with more power but not alot of fab work to go into it. i've also seen the d21/hardbody engine in one of these, what goes into that? sorry for all the questions, im new to the datsun scene, s10's are just too damn simple i guess. and any particular engine/trans combo i should look for in a d21, 240 or older nissan z's? forgot to add i know 240's have ka, ca and others, just dont know the difference of them. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 How much are you willing to spend...call DGR fabrication in San Jose, CA. Dan can tell you how much this swap will cost. 2nd. is your truck in good shape, if not, why build it up and spend like $3 K or more. 3rd, you will more than likely need to change your tranny and fabricate/weld, new cross member, and don't forget you will need stopping power therefore you will need to change brakes, may want to go 4 wheel brakes. And will you do this swap or have others do it for you. I could be wrong but with what I mentioned above maybe $5 k or more. Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 Welcome swamp rat! Go buy that KC already! If the body is in swell shape, you're golden. I know how you feel. You're digging into all the threads learning how to make the coolest 620. I felt the same way when I pulled home my non running 521. I think that is great, gather that info, BUT, think about getting what you buy running as is. Lots of folks park these things for nothing more than a dirty carb or lots of other easy to fix reasons. Get er running and enjoy driving it a little before you do an extensive engine swap.Then you can really take your time planning your upgrades. I've seen a few lose interest in their rides because they were apart in the garage before they ever got to enjoy them. All mine took was a new fuelpump, new slave and brake master, battery, and a weber carb. And I have a solid runner! (So far that is!) Just something to think about! I also would guess alot more guys would be eager to answer your questions once you actually own it! I'd help you out, but I actually don't know much when it comes to engine upgrades. Rock on, I really think you will enjoy it here! You might have a solid runner there with a few inexpensive fixes!:D Quote Link to comment
swamp_rat Posted May 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 i have alot of knowledge working on vehicles, doing stuff myself is no problem. worked at DIB customs for a while and been working on vehicles since age 7 (almost 18 now). the truck is in decent shape sitting in a field, no rust holes or anything, just surface rust and neglect, im basicly saving it from rusting. the keys are in the ignition so i dont even know if the engine runs, i just want something with a lil more power that can handle the truck plus a 600lb streetbike in the bed going to shows. and i plan on doing the hardbody suspension swap with the custom uppers. my dads friend has a few hardbody's and also what looked like a early z i'll have to check out. im just worried rebuilding the stock engine and brakes wouldnt be enough. Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 I totally hear you! I'd just be curious if you could get it to run as is. I love those stories like Icehouse told me the other day where he pulled a non runner out of a field for little cash, and basically just ran a little sandpaper between the points, and had a runner. Then pimp the heck out of it! But I totally respect the desire to jump right in and upgrade the heck out of it. And with the access and experiences you already have, you are 100 steps ahead of me. Go for it! Mine is the first vehicle I have ever learned on. So I take baby steps. Look forward to following your project thread! Quote Link to comment
swamp_rat Posted May 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 well guys, i have excelent news. getting it for $100. and it RUNS! sputters/misses but runs! radiator was stolen by some blacks, but ill get another one. its a 4spd standard, 1973 model with the L16. good engine? well heres a link to the other thread so you can check it out. http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?p=59710#post59710 Quote Link to comment
swamp_rat Posted May 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 the one im getting doesnt have a radiator at all and i've read the pre 73's are diff from others because of dimensions, but would it he hard to retro fit a later model 620 radiator or something? its a standard so is there any lines going to it from the trans or no? my s10 is a 5spd and it doesnt have any cooling lines to the trans so thats why i asked. and if the 620 doesnt, all i need is a rad that i can retro-fit and have the proper size hoses right? which radiator would be the best for this? asking because i basicly have no knowledge of how datsun has their stuff under the hood. maybe someone with a 72/73 620 with a standard can take some pics for me so i can see what the original radiator looks like so i know what its soposed to look like? would greatly appreciate it. Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 72/73 620 rad is a pain in the ass.The front core support does not dip in like later 620s.I dont think the correct version is really available new.With the clearance to fan issue later 620 rads are sketchy.I used a 720 rad in mine recently because its thinner but it sure is wide.Pull some measurements and maybe check out Jegs or Summit for custom rads....or,maybe dem dere blacks ull bring it back to ya.. Quote Link to comment
swamp_rat Posted May 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 i'll make the lil dip if i have to, im used to custom fabbing stuff, just as long as i get the type of rad i need. seems like the rabbit rad wouldnt be hard. also the first 620 i looked at was in realy bad shape, maybe i can go check it out and see what ywear it is and shit and if the rad would fit with a lil work. Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 to answer your questions: L-series engine is what your truck has. L16 - 1.6L single overhead cam, single carb L18 - 1.8L L20 - 2.0L longer stroke than smaller l-series, more torque, still SOHC and single carb fuel injection intake manifolds for these L-series 4-cyl engines are very rare. Found originally in Japan only (not sold to US) so fuel injection conversions cost a lot. ~$1000 and you have to hunt down parts for a year or more. Best to run a single Weber carb for daily use and reliability. Mild performance upgrade, good torque, and good on gas. You also have options of dual sidedraft SU or Weber/Mikini carbs. High rpm power and not too good on fuel economy. Z-series engines not not commonly used as a swap. They are ok engines used in the early 80's 720 and 200sx cars. Known for weak head gaskets and the heads often warp if overheated. (moreso than the L-series) Z20 - 2.0L SOHC, carb, crossflow head Z22 - 2.2L Z24 - 2.4L 1989-90 240SX and 1990-97 Hardbody truck uses the KA24e engine KA24e - 2.4L SOHC, crossflow head, throttle body injection in a truck, point fuel injection in the 240SX cars. timing chain KA24DE - 2.4L DOHC, dual cams in 1991+ cars, and 1998+ trucks. All were point fuel injected, slightly more power than SOHC version. timing chain FWD KA engines can also be found (for some parts?) 1989-90 KA24e in the Stanza, 1993-2001 Altima has the KA24DE CA engines were found in many DOHC and SOHC versions, FWD and RWD, turbo and non-turbo. These engines are unique in that a FWD engine can be bolted right up to a RWD type transmission. These have a timing belt instead of a chain. The DOHC engines have individual coil packs and revv very high: 7,500 rpm redline I believe. All were factory fuel injected. (that's what the "e" stands for) CA16DE - "DE" is DOHC, the number is the size. 1.6L - 1986 Pulsar SE (only the SE model) CA18DE - 1.8L version, still FWD, 1987-88 Pulsar SE CA20e - mid 80's 200SX, single cam, RWD, but 2.0L CA18et - US market 1985-86 200SX turbo. Smaller 1.8L but turbo, still SOHC CA18DET - DOHC and turbo, RWD, from a Silvia in Japan. possibly run a Pulsar CA18DE engine connected to a 200SX rwd 5-speed Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.