ratsunissan Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 so i have a 86 720 (z24) that im putting a 95 ka into. theres alot of wires i dont need, seeming it was carbureted, so i figured id pull out my old harness and remove what i dont need. then id obviously have to re-wire my old harness back in. now this is where my question lies. i have the easy wire can/am box that jeff made me so then ill i have to do is wire the fuel set up and ecu to the box? i have the 720 fuse box but do i need the ka fuse box too? should i be going at this differently? do i keep the 2 harnesses separate? im not to sure on what to do help me out Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 so i have a 86 720 (z24) that im putting a 95 ka into. theres alot of wires i dont need, seeming it was carbureted, so i figured id pull out my old harness and remove what i dont need. then id obviously have to re-wire my old harness back in. now this is where my question lies. If the truck is carburated, there won't be a whole lot to remove. i have the easy wire can/am box that jeff made me so then ill i have to do is wire the fuel set up and ecu to the box? Yes. Follow the diagrams in the wire a KA into anything thread. i have the 720 fuse box but do i need the ka fuse box too? The 720 fuse box will still power the trucks systems. You will want to use the trucks start/ignition system to run the starter and you will need to integrate the charging system into the KA alternator. You do not use the KA fuse box. the Can/Am box will be the 'fuse box' for the KA should i be going at this differently? Not many ways to do it. do i keep the 2 harnesses separate? Yes. Keep the engine harness seperate from the truck harness. im not to sure on what to do help me out Hope that helps. :) Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 yeah it did thanks alot man. so do you think i should pull my whole harness out or should i just un-rap it and pull out all the old carbureted bull? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 It depends on how you feel about wiring. I enjoy redoing the harness and find it fun. If wires scare or intimidate you I would leave it. It will work fine with everything left in the rig. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 I left the stock wiring in mine in case someone wanted to swap it back for whatever reason. Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 im not gonna lie wiring kind of intimidates me because i havent wired a whole truck before but i think it would look alot better with all the old wires removed so i thats why i kind of want to just pull em out. however im scared im going to re-wire it wrong and have a huge headache when trying to get the truck started Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 Sounds like you should leave it. Leave it like Steve and enjoy the benefits of fuel injection instead of learning the 620 harness inside and out. You will be a happier man. Trust me!! Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 alright guys thanks alot. i already started labeling and pulling my old harness so it looks like my goal for today is plug everything back in haha. thanks again Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 steve your engine bay doesnt look like a cluster fuck with 2 full harnesses in there? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 Cluster fucks come when people don't put the time and effort into making the engine bay look nice. Take a new car for example, those things are packed with shit. It doesn't look bad though. If everything is neat and tighty the engine bay will look great. Steve's engine bay looks awesome! Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 ha yeah good point. i just feel like theres gonna be a shit tone of wires that lead to nothing but ill tape them up and tuck em as much as possible. but thanks alot guys ill let you know if i need more help Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 If you take your time you can make it look clean. Here is a shot right after my swap. Here is one after I had some time to clean it up a bit. I built a relay cover that mounts to the stock bracket to cover the new fuse box and relays. It also covers a large portion of the extra wiring and all the truck relays. This is what is under the cover, but with the fused wires plugged into that fuse panel. Remember that you don't have to get it all done at once. If you want to clean it up and removing wiring later you can. :) Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 2eDeYe' timestamp='1341242015' post='711706'] Hope that helps. :) Im also about to do the wiring for my ka swap into a 210 and I had similar questions. So youre saying that you dont use the ka engine bay fuse panel? therefore you use the original datsun starter and charging wires so that the alt is fused? My biggest confusion was about the alt being fused; so it uses the old charge fuse in the stock datsun fuse panel? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 You don't use any fuses from the KA donor. You will need to add fused and relayed power to supply to the ECU though. The vehicle charging and starting circuits will need to be attached (spliced in) to the KA alternator and starter, it's pretty straight forward if you car has an internally regulated alternator. This allows you to use the stock charge light and ignition switch. Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 nice, exact answer I was looking for thanks :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 You are welcome :) Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Hellllp me please all i need to do is wire up this truck and shes on the road, im just having trouble with a few things..im pretty sure i have the box wired in correctly. but im not sure what i have to do to hook up my igntion to the starter and hook up the alternator? Ik i need a + and a - on the starter but whatelae do i have to do? Im not good with wires Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted February 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 I was wondering if u guys could help me out. I have power to everywhere i should however i have no spark or fuel. I get fuel up to my rail but not in the cylinders. Im assuming this problem is injectors, any thoughts? Now for spark i have 12v at the cam angle sensor so i figured it had to be my dizzy, so i tried another one, with new cap and rotor, and still no spark. I have a crank angle sensor on top of my bell housing that is unpluged because i cannot find a lower harness for a 95 ka. could this be my problem or do u have any other ideas? I have everything on the box wired up correctly except one wire and i tried two wires that i figured could be them. This wire is the IACV wire under the run 1 section on the box. Im hoping this is it cause this baby needs to start up and wake up from her long nap lol Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted February 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 I have the 720 alt and starter solenoid powering the alt and starter. I didnt know if i had to have the ka starter solenoid hooked up as well because when turning the truck off after being on the can am box still has power which i found weird.. Please help me guys this 720 has been sitting too long Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 Not running checks 1. 1995 is still OBD1 have you checked the codes? 2. Does your fuel pump prime when you turn the key to the on position? 3. Does the fuel pump run while you are cranking the engine? 4. How are you checking spark? 95 has the coil built into the cap doesn't it? 5. Have you actually checked injector pulse? Power not shutting off 1. Sounds like your alt is wired to constant power should be keyed. Do you have a apple product that can do FaceTime? It might be easier if I help you that way. Trying to figure out wiring issues through text is a bitch sometimes :) Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted February 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 Yea i do have facetime whats your number? Is it cool if i ft u later today? And i only have an engine harness so do i still have a plug for obd? And yes fuel pump primes but it doesnt stay running tge whole time. Alt is wired to direct power thats why the box has constant power? Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted February 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 Ive been trying to get my hands on a noid test light so no i havent tested them directly. They have 12v and when i try to do the screw driver trick i dont hear any pulse. Yes 95s have built in coil i tried pulling plugs and crankin and also putting a screwdriver into the plug wires lol Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted February 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 I could imagine ur a busy guy but if u can help me get this thing running ill send some extra money your way Quote Link to comment
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