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280z electrical... snare of jumbled wires......


WeirdKid

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sooo, i just bought a '75 280z for the reasonable price of $250. story is this guy was going to do a resto, drove the car to a parking spot between some shady trees and there it sat for 4 years. the only thing he did to it was disconnect EVERY WIRE in the engine bay. so now i have a jumbled mess. all i have managed to do (electrucally) is hook up the plugs and distributor, but that was annoying because there are no markings on the cap. (does it matter which way the distributor goes on? it fits 180 degrees) ive also hooked up the MAF and the injectors, but thats about it. if anyone, ANYONE has any advice here, i woud appreciate. i do have an owners shop manual, but it hasnt helped me very much so far besides firing order.

 

If anyone has a nice underhood picture or a wiring diagram that idiots could understand, i would be eternally grateful. I just want to fire this beast up!

 

the same for vacuum hoses, what needs to stay and or be replaced and what can i just plug up?

 

thank you!!! :thumbup:

P1070561.jpg

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Well its been ages I owned a 280 but I can try to help.

 

Firing order is 153624, the vacuum should be facing forward.....The thermo is bundled with the wire for he dizzy.... Brake booster goes to the big nipple on the mani.... looks like that vacum line goes next to it.... Injectors should fit by length to the right connector... That injector just after the maf is the "cold start"

 

Besides trying to match up lengths of wire to the right connections that's about all I got.... Oh wait, shoulda bought a 240, lol.

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Reasonable price no ... it was a steal ... less than scrap ! You obviously don't know how good of a deal this car was :lol:

 

Your cold start injector is points vertically (green body) literally right next to throttle body! Take the connector with 2-prongs ( hanging about 7-8 inches down from drivers side strut tower) and plug it into it!

 

Your throttle position sensor is requires 3-prong connection (in the picture located a few inchewls south of the top of the strut) next to the cold start injector connector (literally) .. plug it in !

 

It looks like you are missing your thermotime switch/coolant sensor ? Or it is there and i cant see it .. (it is located in the thermostat housing qnd the electrical portion is pointing towards the radiator ) ( those 2 female butt connections wrapped around the harness then hanging down by the strut tower are suppose to plug into 2 male connections that are attached to the thermotime switch/coolant sensor harness connector. Dont panic ... it is easy to repair/wire/solder in. Look on ebay for a "bosch ev-1" style fuel injector connector. You can receive a set of (6) of them for $16.75 shipped or just pick (1) up local for $7-8 a piece.

buy one ! I recommend buying (9) total for your application. The coolant sensor is crucial to cold starting since it controls your cold start injector. So it needs to be hooked up.

 

The "round connector" (directly above throttle linkage on manifold and laying on harness) ... it is the ECU ground. This is critical it is VERY clean in order to fire injectors. I havent owned a 280z but my 280zx's have 2 of them ( look for one more if not do not sweat it just bolt up and go ! )It is to be bolted to the intake on 280zx's ... 280zx location aprox a few inches left of brake booster port hookup. BUT on 280z's it could be/possibily a different location ( just look for a likely ground place with alotted wire length allowed on ecu harness loom)

 

Hookup that vacuum hose next to the brake booster port as well .. if not hooked up it will be a problem until fixex.

 

On 280zx's fastest way to determine a vacuum leak is (while engine running) pull oilcap or oil dipstick or breqther hose ... if engine worse immediately after ... your engine probably does not have a vacuum leak if engine does not change it could mean a rich running or other problems. This method may or may not work on a 280z ...

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lol, that vacum leak test is so old school... it reminds me of back when I use to get up before the sun so I could make it to the auto auction before everybody else had a chance to fuck things up on the "runners", back before fixing and flipping cars got you a TV show.

 

You can use the same trick on clogged breather/PCV too, if it runs better when a PCV is pulled you got problems, lol.

 

I'm gonna bet 280z and 280ZX is the same.... but you never know.

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Oh yeah! 280z injector connectors do not need to be in a particular order as they all "fire/actuate" at the same time.

 

But it is critcal the connections are clean enough to eat off of or a dead cylinder will be the result. The catch 22 is in order to clean the connectors you have to pull them off first right? And twist the wiring arojnd right? Well ... they usually break or make a bad connector worse in a flash! !!!

 

On a 280zx ...At each injector connector shouod register aprox 3.5volts with the key in the "on" positiin... BUT ... it may be a different voltage for 280z's but I doubt it as they take the same injector as the 280zx.

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lol, that vacum leak test is so old school... it reminds me of back when I use to get up before the sun so I could make it to the auto auction before everybody else had a chance to fuck things up on the "runners", back before fixing and flipping cars got you a TV show.

 

You can use the same trick on clogged breather/PCV too, if it runs better when a PCV is pulled you got problems, lol.

 

I'm gonna bet 280z and 280ZX is the same.... but you never know.

 

Hahah! There ya go!!!

 

Auto auctions are a perfect case of hit or miss !!

 

Agreed .. it seems they are very close !

 

 

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allright ive made some headway. I THINK this is all i have left, in 3 pictures to make it easy.

pic 1

pic1.jpg

 

pic 2

pic2.jpg

 

pic3... ok, i plugged in the white plug onto the alternator, are those two black loops just grounds? where do they hook up to, it looks like possibly on the alternator

 

pic3.jpg

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