ohmrchristopher Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 So I am throwing parts on the truck as they come in. Went to change the stabilizer (sway) bar mount bushings and end links, all went well, all be it the finial dimension... manual calls for 97.6mm between the bar and the mount on the suspension, however; the nut bottoms on the bolt (out of threads) around that number, something like 100mm? Can't recall. I am not worried just curious if this happened to anyone else? The hardware that came out was straight garbage and the bolts were different lengths. Also changed my tension (radius) rod bushings. The rear mounts where OK, got the dimension I needed while still maintaining the specified torque, however; the forward mounts were a little off and what am I supposed to do with the bigger nut on the rod? I evened them up with each other, seems the passenger side was more aft then then drivers... Are they adjusted for an alignment? Ill be getting one after I do my king pins, is there anything I need to make sure the shop looks at? Thanks! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 yes, junky kits. Use the new bushings, but the old bolts/tubes. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Now what about the radius rod and the big nut on it? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 What about it? It's not part of the stabilizer. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 It is for caster adjustment. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 What about it? It's not part of the stabilizer. I asked two questions, one sway bar, other torsion rod. 2eDeYe' timestamp='1337293731' post='687459']It is for caster adjustment. I figured that, how do I adjust it? Or do I? What about shimming my upper control arm? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 Best bet is to take it in for an alignment after you get it back together. Still need to get mine re-aligned.... Basically you use the big nut and the end nut to push or pull your lower control arm to adjust the caster. Depending on how low you are you use spacers on the upper control arm at the mount to adjust camber. A good alignment tech can get the front adjusted for you. 1 Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 Thanks! Is disassembly required to add those shims? Quote Link to comment
ddrum Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 I went to a tire shop about a month ago, and the tech told me that i needed a longer bolt for the control arm so he could adjust the camber. It didn't make sense to me at the time, because i thought they needed factory parts in order to adjust it. Is it true that i would need longer control arm bolts? thanks, erick Quote Link to comment
southerncross Posted February 9, 2013 Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 Seems so Erick. If they have to add washers to shim it out you need to make up that distance with more threads so the bolt engages with enough meat on it to keep from being pulled out or loosening over time. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 I never actually got an alignment, but seeing as I'll be driving the truck more this summer I will have too. Quote Link to comment
ddrum Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 Seems so Erick. If they have to add washers to shim it out you need to make up that distance with more threads so the bolt engages with enough meat on it to keep from being pulled out or loosening over time. That makes more sence, he didnt explain to me he had to shim it. Thanks Southercross. Quote Link to comment
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