Skulptr Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 my tax return should be here any day now, and i want to finally lift the old girl a few inches. if anyone has anything i would love to get it from you. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 For 2" just do a body lift and space the cab and box. We used to stack hockey pucks. Six spacers for the cab and six for the bed I think. This works and doesn't mess with your suspension, alignment, spring rate or ride. Higher makes it slightly 'tippy' from the higher center of gravity. Link to comment
Skulptr Posted February 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 what about shift linkage, wiring, steering, ect? i considered a body lift, but my torsion bars are already maxed, and the nose is sitting 1" lower than the rear, and the rear is 2" spring blocked and cant take jack for weight. was already wanting to upgrade the suspension. hockey pucks are solid rubber, but how do they do with the elements? especially with salty air? Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 what about shift linkage, wiring, steering, ect? i considered a body lift, but my torsion bars are already maxed, and the nose is sitting 1" lower than the rear, and the rear is 2" spring blocked and cant take jack for weight. was already wanting to upgrade the suspension. hockey pucks are solid rubber, but how do they do with the elements? especially with salty air? You can use anything even solid metal as you keep the original rubbers on it just putting a spacer in... and longer bolts. The shifter will sit 2" lower, brake lines have enough slack to give, same with fuel lines and wiring. The rad will be two inches higher and the rad hoses will be strained but you can drill new holes to lower it. Steering has a U joint and a collapsible section to 'give'. E brake, speedo throttle cable are all good. When lifting make sure to take a good look around everywhere to see that something isn't binding. I did 4" on my 620 and only lowered the rad, but be careful. Link to comment
KC Phirus Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Just get a lifted 720 4x4 Link to comment
Skulptr Posted February 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Why get a lifted one when mine cost 100 bucks? Link to comment
KC Phirus Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Cause you're starting with a lowered 2wd right? Find a lifted one for 100$ Link to comment
Skulptr Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 No I'm starting with a partially lifted 4x4 kc. Link to comment
KC Phirus Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 No I'm starting with a partially lifted 4x4 kc. Saw spring blocks. Assumed lowered... 2-4" on the body and some bigger tires. Link to comment
Skulptr Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Have 33s already, now trying to make rom for them. My front suspension us so worn out they hit fender over any kind of bump Link to comment
KC Phirus Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Thus the body lift. sounds like it needs new shocks anyways> you can get longer ones but be sure to keep the geometry correct. Suspension is all about the geometry. Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 put on some 620 leaf springs. That's worth around 1.5" in the rear. Link to comment
Skulptr Posted February 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 How are they for load capacity? Link to comment
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