Rebuilding my own engine (L20B)

[SpenOne]

So, I wanna get this car on the road already and i've pretty much got all the (engine) parts ready. I've pulled engines and trannies out of cars a bunch of times and i've changed out parts in multiple cars, but i've never had the guts to rebuild an engine. I changed out my headgasket once in my mazda 323 and never had an issue with that, but aside from that i have ZERO experience with engine rebuilds. I'm confident i can do it i'd just like to know what i'm up against before I start..lol.

 

I got a recent quote to rebuild it for $500 and i'm tempted to pay....

 

Heres what i have:

 

L16 Head (rebuilt with stock cam)

L20B Block (with timing cover)

ARP head bolts and Rod bolts

New pistons on the L20B rods

280 z turbo oil pump (was told it would work)

L20B alternator bracket

L20B 6 bolt flywheel

Timing chain kit

Gasket set

 

 

My father is also mechanic but in the middle of the rebuild he had to get a pacemaker and it hindered him from finishing it. It was left with a rebuilt head sitting on top of the block, new pistons installed on a freshly hot tanked block but the stock rod bolts were removed and replaced with the ARP's and never torqued down. Also need the oil pump and water pump installed. Instead of paying someone else to do it I kinda feel like i need to finish it for "US", but as stated before..i'd kinda like to know what im up against. Are the L Series engines delicate? forgiving? hard? easy? Should i grab my toolbag and my balls and go build this thing? Or should i sit back relax and pay for someone to give it back to me spic n' span with a warranty?..... :huh:

[izzo]

You will want to check the bores and crank to make sure they are in spec, use a micrometer on the bore and crank. check for scaring or wear. Can also you plastiguide (think thats what it was called) on the crank to check for tolerances. You can get oversized bearings for the crank and rod bearings if they are out of spec or have it ground to your liking. If the cylinder walls are out of spec you will need to have them bored out as well and get larger pistons/rings... Check for cracks around the water jackets on the block. Check the head for flatness as well. With the head off, its a good time to replace the valve seats. Maybe re-grind the valves and relap them as well and or replace the valve guides if they are worn.

 

Other than that, its pretty straight forward putting it together. here is a link for head gasket install and some really good tips. As well as how to set the timing.

 

**edit -- I didn't read the bottom part haha... Anyways... Check out that video link below.

 

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=8EF51386855F2B58

[SpenOne]

You will want to check the bores and crank to make sure they are in spec, use a micrometer on the bore and crank. check for scaring or wear. Can also you plastiguide (think thats what it was called) on the crank to check for tolerances. You can get oversized bearings for the crank and rod bearings if they are out of spec or have it ground to your liking. If the cylinder walls are out of spec you will need to have them bored out as well and get larger pistons/rings... Check for cracks around the water jackets on the block. Check the head for flatness as well. With the head off, its a good time to replace the valve seats. Maybe re-grind the valves and relap them as well and or replace the valve guides if they are worn.

 

Other than that, its pretty straight forward putting it together. here is a link for head gasket install and some really good tips. As well as how to set the timing.

 

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=8EF51386855F2B58

 

 

Thanks for the info! The block was actually bored out and fitted with the new pistons/rings at a local machine shop, so thats already taken care of. Its the rest of the build that's got me a little intimidated (timing chain install, rod bolt installation etc..)

[datzenmike]

Only think I don't care for is the stock L16 head and cam on an L20B. Check the head casting number down low between the #1 and #2 spark plug holes. If it's a stock L16 it will be a 210 and that's not the best thing for a much larger displacement L20B. The 210 had small ports and valves with a cam to match. Also the combustion chamber is very small and will bump the L20B compression to 9.30. So poor breathing/performance and pinging under load. A letter head like A-87 or better yet a U-67and an L20B cam will work much better. Just sayin'... maybe you already have an L20B head on it and don't know it.

[dirtydiesel]

plastic gauge*** plastigauge** plaster gauges** engine floss** etc...