Updated 620 Floor Pan and Cowl Ideas and questions

[bilzbobaggins]

Today I began working on the leakyness of the my 620. I started by vaccuming all around the four screws on the cowl. They were covered in dirt/leaves/berries. The screws looked bad, but I took a very small watch screwdriver and picked all the dirt and rust out of the heads. I vacummed them again, then took a phillips head bit and tapped it in the screw with a hammer. I didnt have a short screwdriver worth a damn and didnt want to take the hood off. I used a 1/4 inch socket with a 1/4 inch drive to turn the phillips bit and managed to work all four out. I then vaccummed and brused a full mini shop vacs worth of shit out. Also wire brushed and oiled my hood hinges. Im missing one of the plastic clips that recieves the tabs on the cowl.

 

Then I moved on to the inside of the truck. Has a factory bench in ok looking shape, just wore out. I unbolted this and removed the seat. I knew the pans were in bad shape before hand, but they surely sucked. Some one had done a decent job of carpeting the truck, but there mistake was putting the carpet in and using TONS of caulk on the edges of the carpet. Do not know why, was pinned in really well. I got all the carpet out and wire brushed the pans while I vaccumed. Stage 1 weight reduction done. Rockers are in Ok to good shaped. The rust is light on them thanks to the caulk I guess. Got almost three loads of rust out. Sadly, it got dark on me before I took pics. Then when I got the shop light out, the bulb blew.

 

 

Drivers side

 

 

Pass side

 

 

Pass side rear

 

 

Drivers side rear

 

 

Sorry ass caulk that held all water under carpet to Help do this damage

 

 

 

 

So. My research has left me a little unsure on what to do. I know pans are not flat, but a healthy gauge would be fine to weld in from forward to just past the seat rail. I can get the rails out and clean back up and reweld back in place with a couple of patches I think.

 

For the rear parts, I might just fiber glass that. There are a lot of rolls and bends in there. Part of me feels like Im cheating, but part of me doesnt.

 

 

So the questions part.

 

Where are the drains at in the cowl? Do the fenders need to come off? What lube should I use for the wipers while im in there? Ill get a pic of the under of the cowl when I get light back. Por 15 It?

 

Think most of the leaks come from the front and rear glass gaskets. Should I chase the leaks down now or just after I fix the pans?

 

 

Whats everyone use to cut all the shit out? Would a cutting wheel on my grinder be good? Any lines or things to look out for when cutting?

 

I just need to grind/drill the welds on the seat rails and they should come out, Correct?

 

Should I put new metal in and then por 15 the insides?

 

Will por 15 stick to fiberglass?

 

Will a roll on bedliner stick to por 15?

 

Im going to watch the world series now.

 

If ive forgotten something or made newb mistake, please alert me of it by letting me know, not blasting me with a worthless post. This will be my first time doing this, and im looking forward to it.

 

Any help will be awesome.

 

Thanks

 

Jeff

[Radiant-Designer]

If it were me i would replace the gaskets and fix the leaks now. Have someone rin a hose on it while you are inside to make sure....

 

 

POR is an amazing thing.... They have a spray on etcher/primer if you want to put something over the POR, such as a roll on bed liner. just make sure you do the prep work first, but looks like you got plenty of Rust there, which is kinda suprising for a GA truck, my New England truck looks cleaner and we have way more salt and snow up here!

 

POR will stick to fiberglass, and it will do amazing things to even rusty metal. I dont really know where Agusta is, but if you are anywhere near Coralton (spelled it wrong I know, it isnt too far from where my buddy lived down there) there is a VW place called Herrell's. They use POR and you can probablly see some on their bugs... it will give you an idea of how it levels out and makes things smooth.

 

I havent done a Datsun but from my VWs there is a tool that makes a flange so the new peice of metal will sit on a lip, makes it a LOT easier.

 

Good luck!

[bilzbobaggins]

I have been doing more research. I found a post that mentioned 620 pans are the same as 720 pans. If thats the case, I think I could find a 720 here. If they are not, at least I can get part of the pan, mainly the two forward frame mounts. One is def toast, the other is worth doing.

 

Decided to rain today, so I observed leakage on the inside. The rear of the cab looks to be from the seam on the bottom rear of cab. There is a lip for water and trash to set on.

 

The forward is running in where the fender well meets everything at the top. Looks like the fenders are coming off. Have a feeling the dash and everything else will be as well.

 

And trucks rust in Georgia just fine, thank you. Its muggy as piss down here all the time. Since you say por will stick to fiberglass and rust, I might just fiberglass the rearward part of the cab where all the waves and stuff is. The forward needs metal for sure.

 

Also was thinking of the 521 cab thats been hacked at my buddys house. The pans were shot forward, but there was good mounts in the back and most of the back cab wall left.

 

 

Still planning a line of attack here. Have lots of carboard for mock ups.

 

 

thanks

 

Jeff

[bilzbobaggins]

So im kinda lost and need some more help. Got the drivers fender off, and know that the cowl is clean. Its leaking inside from where the firewall and cowl meet in this corner. Come in on the inside all the the way up in the corner where the fender well and everything else meet in the corner.

 

 

 

 

 

How do I get inside the cowl, prep and seal? I cant get my hand in there and blasting is out of my budget.(havent one) Should I just clean out the best I can and slather por 15 in there??? Everything I read said to use thin coats. Dont want to spray it either(no equipment).

 

 

Am I lost as to where its coming in at or am I just dumb?

 

Please help me. I need this truck back on the road in ten days!!

 

 

thanks

 

Jeff

[bilzbobaggins]

Okay. From all my research(which was quite a few camaro and mustang sites :lol: ), you can get areosol rust coverters. Im very confident that the inside of the cowl is perfectly rusty to accept this. I can cut myself a little more access to get in there to clean the dirt n such and knock out any old seam sealer. Then rust convert, and seam seal. This is the thorsday plan of attack. Then the pans can be taken care of. Im glad im taking everything out. When I went to take the pass kick panel off, it crumbled in my hands and I found the white sunless cockroaches in there. Gross.

 

Wish me luck.

 

Jeff

[bilzbobaggins]

And this would be better if I wasnt such a late night person. I just cant get off work at 1 or 2 am, and go to sleep. Or if I had a garage or wasnt in such tight quarters with the house next door. And he is blind, so I worry about noise, as the train goes by and is loud as hell and its cold, so its even louder.

 

 

Off to do more research on prices and such.

[Willdatsun]

I think thats still less rusty than mine :)

[bilzbobaggins]

I think thats still less rusty than mine :)

 

Yeah, I saw some pics of yours man. Should be a fun truck for you.

 

 

I did some more work( will get pics in morn). Got the prep work done on the drivers side of the cowl. Also got the seams cleaned up that are under the upper part of the rear of the fender. Got kinda manic, and cleaned all the seams on the roof and drivers door jams. Fuck it, im in there, lets do it now. Found the marine clean and por 15 locally(and not more pricey than online) and have to order the etching prep stuff to get the smooth places that are around all the rusted areas. I cant wait for tommarow. Thanks

 

Jeff