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Temp sending unit for 65 L320


Fogdart

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Hey folks...been lurking for a few years while working on a 65 L320 in Molalla, OR. Close to being back on the road. It's got a J15 in it with a 4-speed floor shift. Anybody have a part number for a temp sending unit that would be compatable with the stock temp gauge? The temp gauge seems to want to mate to a positive coefficient sender (hot=high resistance, cold=low resistance). Most temp senders are negative coefficient (hot=low resistance, cold=high resistance). Anyway, after digging thru as many sources as I could find, I can't seem to come up with a compatable sender. Anyone know what the stock resistance range is supposed to be for the temp gauge? Mine reads: bottom of cold 44 ohms, hot (red line) 156 ohms. FYI...I ended up with two instrument clusters and both fuel level movements were 'needleless' so I pulled one of the temp movements out, flipped it and installed it where the fuel movement goes. The fuel level sender is a negative coefficient sender so when I flipped the temp movement to install it, the needle swing is correct (full vs empty). My tank and sender are aftermarket so I had to put a resistor in parallel with the sender to get it pretty close to accurate. I erred toward accuracy at the empty side so, hopefully, it'll at least keep me from running out of gas! Thanks in advance for any info. Fogdart.

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Hey folks...been lurking for a few years while working on a 65 L320 in Molalla, OR. Close to being back on the road. It's got a J15 in it with a 4-speed floor shift. Anybody have a part number for a temp sending unit that would be compatable with the stock temp gauge? The temp gauge seems to want to mate to a positive coefficient sender (hot=high resistance, cold=low resistance). Most temp senders are negative coefficient (hot=low resistance, cold=high resistance). Anyway, after digging thru as many sources as I could find, I can't seem to come up with a compatable sender. Anyone know what the stock resistance range is supposed to be for the temp gauge? Mine reads: bottom of cold 44 ohms, hot (red line) 156 ohms. FYI...I ended up with two instrument clusters and both fuel level movements were 'needleless' so I pulled one of the temp movements out, flipped it and installed it where the fuel movement goes. The fuel level sender is a negative coefficient sender so when I flipped the temp movement to install it, the needle swing is correct (full vs empty). My tank and sender are aftermarket so I had to put a resistor in parallel with the sender to get it pretty close to accurate. I erred toward accuracy at the empty side so, hopefully, it'll at least keep me from running out of gas! Thanks in advance for any info. Fogdart.

 

Welcome to Ratsun, wish I knew what you are talking about. :lol: :lol: I do know that most if not all these datsun 320s came as positive ground, although I suspect you already know that. We really like photos here, but I suspect you know that also, so whats yours look like? This is what mine looks like.

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Sorry about the confusion...I tend to ramble. Usually better when I remain a 'lurker'. I'll probably just install a separate temp gauge until I can come up with the correct sender. I started with two trucks, both in rough shape. Ended up with a pretty decent little flatbed. I'll see if I can figure out how to post some pics under a new topic. My wife thinks it's "soooooo cute!". That just hurts, man!

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I don't have any recent pics...Gotta' paint the flatbed and get it back on and then it should be good to go. Used my hangar door as a lift to get the cab on and off. Hate to admit it, but that was my

wife's idea. Worked great. Few more early pics....

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I'll get some more recent pics up soon.

 

Wayno, yea...I ended up with one good windshield and one with a small chip so I'm good for a while. The frame was in pretty good shape. Truck must've had a good oil leak and lived on a dirt road for a while because the whole frame and suspension was caked in about an inch of oil soaked dirt. Seemed to have preserved the frame really well. Took several long nights of chipping with a screwdriver to get enough of it off so that I could wire brush it. I did use rust converter on it and then put a brush on, single part polyurethane over that. Hopefully, it'll last longer than I do.

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Thanks...I painted the engine, tranny, and engine compartment before I decided on a color for the exterior...basically used what I had from other jobs. Wish I would have waited as the engine compartment looks a bit ugly with the exterior color. My impatience strikes again.

 

Went out and took some pics as it sits right now...no bed on it. I had a 25 gal tank left over from a boat project I so I welded up a rack and dropped that under the flatbed. How far will a 320 go on 25 gal? I'm sure I'll piss my pants before I run out of gas! Overkill, but I like to use what I have available and the original tank was not usable and wouldn't mount easily under the flatbed anyway.

 

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This truck is freaking awesome guy, AZhitman has a color scheme close to this. I'll find a photo and post/edit to this post. Have you thought about making it a 320 dually flatbed? :lol:

this is his NL320, it's been a while since I looked at this photo, it's a little darker than I remembered.

DSCN0519.jpg

Here's another one, but has the colors opposite of yours. I really like these trucks in two tone colors

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This truck is freaking awesome guy, AZhitman has a color scheme close to this. I'll find a photo and post/edit to this post. Have you thought about making it a 320 dually flatbed? :lol:

this is his NL320, it's been a while since I looked at this photo, it's a little darker than I remembered.

 

Hadn't considered a dually! That would be great. Wouldn't know where to start for a rear axle setup, however.

 

Love the yellow/beige over white! Same truck that just got the custom windshield, isn't it? Is that yours, Wayno? I painted mine myself and I'm no painter. It's about a 10 footer. The price was right. I had the tan/brown from another project and also had some white. Didn't like the sharp contrast of the two so mixed some of the tan in with the white and called it good.

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There are lots of ways to dually it, you can use a dually rearend out of almost anything if you build the flatbed around it, I tend to try to use 14 inch wheels to keep it low, alas nissan and maybe toyota are the only ones that make a small dually wheel like that, and there not everywhere. Fact is there is one for sale right now for $500.00 right now complete, I won't pay that much for one, here is the link. http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/2651078259.html It more than likely has 437 gears in it.

This is my 521 dually, it's a work truck, it has the nissan axle that is for sale on the link above.

 

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Here is another way to make your truck a dually without changing your rearend, these are adapters that are found on the early datsun motorhomes, you see them on craigslist every once in a while, toyota also had them, but you have to change the studs in your axles to use them as the thread slope is differant.

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As luck seems to be on your side, here is a link of a guy selling a set on ratsun right now.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/36730-dually-wheel-adaptors-from-a-620/

And then there is this route of making a dually which also uses the stock axle, these are aftermarket rims, I don't know if he still has them anymore.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/35837-dually-wheels-and-wild-cat-tires/

Then we come to the last way I know of making dually, I used the stock dually rims off the nissan dually axle and had adapters made so I could bolt them onto a stock 720 axle.

DSCN0958.jpg

I am not trying to talk you into anything, I plan on doing this to my 320 pickup after I kingcab it. It will be cool.

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Thanks for all the info. I'll take a look at the dimensions after I get the flatbed back on. The idea hadn't even occurred to me before you mentioned it but I like it. I also like the looks of the 320 with a flatbed on it. Your 521 looks to be a real work rig...nice.

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