datzenmike Posted March 16, 2023 Report Share Posted March 16, 2023 Get a KA24 E or DE with transmission (though you can use your 5 speed) from a D21 Hardbody. That 140 HP and no turbo. ]2eDeYe on here sell the engine mounts for this. If you don't want to mess with EFI pull the CAS and spindle and substitute an L20B distributor, make an aluminum adapter plate and mount your Z24 carburetor or a 32/36 Weber. Quote Link to comment
LigerZero89 Posted March 16, 2023 Report Share Posted March 16, 2023 Thanks Mike…. I’ll save my money and continue to look for a ka24e. I’m in no rush so, I’ll slowly get the things I need so that when I the time comes to make the swap, it won’t turn into a nightmare. Quote Link to comment
Madkaw Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 The 720 4x4 is tough to come up with a reasonable motor swap . I have been slowly trying to improve the performance on mine , but honestly have made some mistakes and made it slower - like : larger tires on a truck that already had 3.9:1 gear set . 2 WD 71c trans that has a taller first gear . A performance cam on a low CR engine . I have started to prep for more speed . I have done a Megasquirt swap EFI which has given full tuning control . I have a water cooled turbo from a STI - might be too big , but we will see . I have a head that has the ports matched for the KA24de turbo manifold . I have a spare motor that I will prep for the turbo motor . Probably won’t do forged pistons . Don’t want to invest that much in an experiment that might fail because HG’s might not hold . Probably will go with ARP head studs . I will reface the block and head . Maybe even use a MLS gasket if I can get one . Meanwhile I am going to bite the bullet and buy smaller tires . I might also get a Kameari cam sprocket and play with some cam timing - like advancing it . I’d like to bump the CR on my current motor - but that probably means pulling the head and shaving . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 Looks like a 200sx engine. You would need some dyno time to realize any gains from an adjustable cam sprocket. And the price!!!! You can advance or retard the can about 4 degrees each way using the timing marks on the stock sprocket. You won't feel the difference. Advancing the cam events slightly favors high RPM gains. Retarding the cam favors low and mid range torque. Get 26" diameter tires. Get a 4.375 H-190 third member. Get a 32/36 Weber if you haven't already (use the money saved from not buying the adjustable cam sprocket) Z22 is 8.42 and Z24 is 8.2 both are pathetic compression numbers but ok for 6-8 pounds of boost. 2" exhaust and turbo muffler. Quote Link to comment
Madkaw Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 8 hours ago, datzenmike said: Looks like a 200sx engine. You would need some dyno time to realize any gains from an adjustable cam sprocket. And the price!!!! You can advance or retard the can about 4 degrees each way using the timing marks on the stock sprocket. You won't feel the difference. Advancing the cam events slightly favors high RPM gains. Retarding the cam favors low and mid range torque. Get 26" diameter tires. Get a 4.375 H-190 third member. Get a 32/36 Weber if you haven't already (use the money saved from not buying the adjustable cam sprocket) Z22 is 8.42 and Z24 is 8.2 both are pathetic compression numbers but ok for 6-8 pounds of boost. 2" exhaust and turbo muffler. It’s a 200sx intake on a z24 . Why in the world would I go with a Weber - lol. I think you have your timing comments are backwards . I would advance timing for LOW END performance . This would give me a nice bump in compression if I advance cakve timing . The Kameari sprocket are about 150$ which is worth it because you can change timing without worrying about dropping the chain . And I think you would feel a difference . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 Moving the cam timing events later as in the intake closing farther up the cylinder would not benefit low speed but higher RPMs. Likewise an earlier closing of the intake does not. The adjustable cam isn't a miracle worker as it also adjusts all valve events. For better results the entire cam profile should be considered and a different cam selected. Keep in mind that the Z heads do not breathe as well as they should and this design is for low and mid range power. For a turbo application the stock 'mild' cam is probably best. The goal should be getting the turbo spooled asap. The theoretical 'red line' on a Z24 is only 6,250. Yes EFI! It was late last night is my only excuse. $150! I must be thinking of some other product of theirs. I thought they were like $500. Maybe that's the adjustable sprocket? and you have the the adjustable smaller sprocket below the cam sprocket that eliminates the tensioner? With the Z series head you should consider an inter cooler as well Quote Link to comment
Madkaw Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 14 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Moving the cam timing events later as in the intake closing farther up the cylinder would not benefit low speed but higher RPMs. Likewise an earlier closing of the intake does not. The adjustable cam isn't a miracle worker as it also adjusts all valve events. For better results the entire cam profile should be considered and a different cam selected. Keep in mind that the Z heads do not breathe as well as they should and this design is for low and mid range power. For a turbo application the stock 'mild' cam is probably best. The goal should be getting the turbo spooled asap. The theoretical 'red line' on a Z24 is only 6,250. Yes EFI! It was late last night is my only excuse. $150! I must be thinking of some other product of theirs. I thought they were like $500. Maybe that's the adjustable sprocket? and you have the the adjustable smaller sprocket below the cam sprocket that eliminates the tensioner? With the Z series head you should consider an inter cooler as well Maybe a difference in wording but you stated advancing cam timing would benefit higher rpm - that’s not the case . Closing the intake valve sooner will bump compression but also benefit low end performance . Yes you can just buy the sprocket for a reasonable price . The whole tensioner kit is another story . That’s about 600$ which I have on my Z . I would only do a turbo with an intercooler . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 Yes it's hard to get my head around advance/retard cam timing. Turning the cam reverse or backwards against engine rotation (seems like retarding) moves the cam opening and closing events earlier. Turning the cam with the engine rotation (seems like advancing) makes the events later or retarded. But yes earlier events (mostly the intake valve) favor low speed, later events higher speeds. 1 Quote Link to comment
RetroRocket Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 How about using my centrifugal-clutch based timing sprocket device for VVT? It works on the principle of the mechanical advance mechanism in distributors. Or a centrifugal clutch on an entry level mini-bike or go kart except clutch material works in oil (A/T source friction material). Flyweights vs spring tension. As camshaft rpm increases, the cam timing retards by how much and when according to a curve set by selectable changeable weights (change in mass) which is resisted by the counterforcing selectable changeable springs); the amount of maximum valve timing retard (limit) is selected and set (slot and dowel). The onset of activation and limit is tuned for the principle engine speed that matters most for the specific engine and use. I have a car that used the first variable valve timing mechanism in a production car. What car is it? Quote Link to comment
RetroRocket Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 I'm not saying it worked via the mechanism I just desribed but still it was innovated by this engine maker Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 While you might get some advance/retard on the cam the intake/exhaust overlap does not change. The gain would be slight. In addition you don't want lots of valve overlap on a turbo engine usually a stock cam is best. Quote Link to comment
RetroRocket Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 It was an emission control related measure that spurred the design. But that doesn't mean it can't be repurposed. I used to convert early '70's Datsun emission control dual-point distributors in function to performance dual point (poor mans' Mallory). Quote Link to comment
RetroRocket Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 Alfa Romeo 1987. Quote Link to comment
RetroRocket Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 Variable Valve Timing (not incorporating variable lift) doesn't change the intake/exhaust overlap; that is physically ground into the cam. The timing of camshaft events changes relative to the crank position when valve timing is varied. The application to turbo vs na vs low rpm use vs high rpm use factors are used to produce the optimal curve (rate of change/rpm and degree limitation of change/range) desired. Oh well, back to the Tour de France... Quote Link to comment
RetroRocket Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 Above I'm referring to a single camshaft engine re LSA and overlap fixed by cam grind. Those parameters do change with dohc. If only one VVT gear/pulley is used it is put on the intake cam. With single cam it is only the basic principle: cam advance for low end; cam retard at high rpm. With dohc there are far more dynamic effects of varying the LSA and overlap. A single cam variable valve timing device might benefit a turbo application moreso than n/a application. idnk. Quote Link to comment
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