DGV to DGEV?

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Got a question... when I bought my truck, the old man who used it as a "dump runner" hooked up a manual choke to the hitachi carb. He bypassed all kinds of vacuum lines and even crimped this metal line that runs over the intake manifold. It appeared to have given him some problems. I'm not sure if a 77 620 came with an electric choke stock, or if it was in fact still manual at that year but I was wondering how to go about making the 34 DGEV carb I bought work out as an electric choke and do away with the old school manual choke. I'll probably end up temporarily attaching the manual choke linkage on the new weber just to get it home from where it's at now. Would I be better off using this as a permanent solution, or should I go with electric? I'm doing this carb swap today, so any help would greatly be appreciated, thanks.

[Bleach]

well if you're doing this TODAY then just stick the carb on there. A choke doesn't help your performance or running. Its only good for idling on its own when cold. For now you can just hold your foot on the throttle a little and let it idle at 1500 or so til its warm. Then just drive the truck.

 

I believe the Weber electric choke mechanism can be install on the manual choke carbs but I dont know this for sure.

The 1977 Datsun did have a wire for the factory electric choke. If you find this wire then you can connect it to the Weber. It may have been cut back by the previous owner. I think it was a blue wire... :)

[datsunaholic]

The weber electric setup can be added to the DGV. The DGV/DGEV/DGAV carb bodies are all the same in that area.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

okay, so I thought it was a 77, but in fact it is a 76 according to the door tag. (2/76) Anyways, today was quite a headache. I pulled the carb, and all the smog sh*t attached to it. It looked almost as if the 2 manifolds are pressed together as one? Under the carb where the fuel dumps into the manifold has a little "grill-like" set of ribs that appear to be the top part of the exhaust manifold. Do the 2 manifolds actually separate, will there be a large hole in the bottom of my intake if I do separate? I had to fabricate a plate to cover the side of the intake man. where the stock air pump used to be too (Cut a piece off of my overkill diamond plate Sherman tank bumper that came with the truck, and plotted some holes on it). Do I need to find another intake man. to use that doesn't have this smog crap on it? I'm in desperate to get this thing goin' so I can get back to work(really broke). Does anyone have any L series intakes w/out the smog stuff they would sell for a decent price. No junkyard that I called today has anything like that. Oh yeah, Bleach, PB blaster is my new best friend, I broke a sh*tload of studs and bolts, only wish I had found it sooner.

[71-521]

pick up an older L16 manifold on eBay...the last one I got was 20 bucks and it had been bead blasted really clean!

[lynchfourtwenty]

the manifolds are not 1 peice.. they are 2.. they kindof hold eachother on the head sorta.. as for the smog stuff and crap.. just fabricate a plate and stick over it.. one thing i would reccomend tho.. dont completely eliminate the hose that comes from the engine block.. twords the back behind the exhaust manny. cause moisture can get in there an its not good.. so try to hook that up somewhere on the plate you fab up.. this is a common thing to do since almost everyone cuts the emission crap off.. anyways hope that helps

[Guest DatsuNoob]

thanks guys, so much for my cool diamond plate intake block off plate, I just decided to get a L16 mani from slodat. I'd just be doing it again eventually so I decided to wait until it gets here to hook up the weber and header. Thanks for the info though. Anybody want free smog parts or the anti backfire valve thing on the back of the carb? Also got a free Hitachi 2 bbl carb (rebuildable), stock air cleaner housing if anyone wants to come get them.