LeX Posted March 17, 2008 Report Share Posted March 17, 2008 I am looking to do some spacers on the back as the guys that said +25 would work fine all around were pulling my chain. The front looks fine, might use a 5mm spacer, but rear is hitting something in suspension on the inside of the wheel due to the edge being too close. I need definitely a 5mm and a 10mm if it will work without replacing studs. Can i fit a 10mm or just a 5mm using stock wheel studs? Also each corner seems to have positive camber, can i take it to a shop to adjust that or is it required to get camber plates. I mean it's not neutral camber, it's positive and I can see it. Quote Link to comment
///FiveOneOh Posted March 17, 2008 Report Share Posted March 17, 2008 who ever told you 25 mil spacers will fit a stock stud is a F'in moron. you can hardly fit a 5mm with stock studs and a mag wheel. personaly would not do it at all unless you have shank style wheel nuts. stock 510s are also not camber adjustable. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted March 17, 2008 Report Share Posted March 17, 2008 LIKE FIVE 1 0 SAID I WOULD NOT DO IT ACORN STYLE WITH A 5MM SPACER WONT GRAB ENUFF THREADS I TRIED IT WITH MINE AFTER TAKEING THE WHEELS OF A FEW TIMES THE STUD'S STRIPED FROM ALL THE STRESS ON THE FEW THREADS IT GRABBED sorry about the cap's:) Quote Link to comment
LeX Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 issue is i just got some rotas from 18racing said the +25 rotas I ordered are special made for 510 fitment yet they dont clear on the rears they hit something on the suspension with the stupid positive camber haha.. guess ill buy camber plates.. so i will need a 5mm spacer on the rears. I am using the tuner style lug nuts i guess ill take a 5mm spacer off my maxima and see if i get enough grip on the 510. Is there a guideline for how many turns is safe for grip? Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted March 18, 2008 Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 go here http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/ scroll down the left side go to suspension click on the datsun 510 wheel and tire fact it is in there some where if i remember right you have to get 7 full turns to be safe. Quote Link to comment
chebetio510 Posted March 18, 2008 Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 issue is i just got some rotas from 18racing said the +25 rotas I ordered are special made for 510 fitment yet they dont clear on the rears they hit something on the suspension with the stupid positive camber haha.. guess ill buy camber plates.. so i will need a 5mm spacer on the rears. I am using the tuner style lug nuts i guess ill take a 5mm spacer off my maxima and see if i get enough grip on the 510. Is there a guideline for how many turns is safe for grip? did u happen to get the rotas?? well anyways.. i believe it hits on your arms right?? on the inside??? on quarterly dime it says dimes take from 0 to 20 positive camber Quote Link to comment
fiveNdime Posted March 18, 2008 Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 What about using an adapter but with the same bolt pattern?? That should work but may be to thick. I dont know how thin you can get those. I think the ones I am using are an 1.25" which I know is too thick for you but you may find some thinner? P.S. I use those spline lugs on everything I have except a couple. They work awsome and you only need one socket, and if you loose one you have a spare if you have more then one set. Of course I use locking lug nuts too. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 18, 2008 Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 issue is i just got some rotas from 18racing said the +25 rotas I ordered are special made for 510 fitment yet they dont clear on the rears they hit something on the suspension I have the same wheels and needed an 1/8" spacer to clear the control arms on the rear. Quote Link to comment
LeX Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 I have the same wheels and needed an 1/8" spacer to clear the control arms on the rear. yeah thats what i'm going to do is just get the 5mm spacer to clear the rear arms. Hopefully then I won't have to worry about anything else. The fronts are fine. Just looks weird coming from factory negative camber on the Z to positive on the 510 looks kind of kooky Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 18, 2008 Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 If you have positive camber on the rear, it's either not low enough or something's bent. ;) Quote Link to comment
LeX Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 If you have positive camber on the rear, it's either not low enough or something's bent. ;) probably not low enough haha because there is about 1.5 fingergap and i have relatively large fingers. Nothing is bent though. I figured out that the rears will JUST clear the issue was one side the weight on the inside lip was getting stuck on the arm, i swapped that rim to the front and now both rears just clear. ill still be grinding down the arm some, though, and getting spacers when the car gets on the road Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 19, 2008 Report Share Posted March 19, 2008 It's no big deal to grind an 1/8" off the LCA for some clearance, but just do it at the offending spot, not all across. I actually had weight interference on mine at the front. I only use stick-on weights, not the kind that clamp at the wheel lip (best to center the weight in the wheel), and they rubbed on the lower control arm because of the bumpsteer spacers. Of course my personal best fix for all of this is 2.5" ARP studs. Costs about $35-40 and takes about an hour and a half. ;) Quote Link to comment
LeX Posted March 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2008 It's no big deal to grind an 1/8" off the LCA for some clearance, but just do it at the offending spot, not all across. I actually had weight interference on mine at the front. I only use stick-on weights, not the kind that clamp at the wheel lip (best to center the weight in the wheel), and they rubbed on the lower control arm because of the bumpsteer spacers. Of course my personal best fix for all of this is 2.5" ARP studs. Costs about $35-40 and takes about an hour and a half. ;) yeah i have the stick on type for the side near the spokes but for the back side the shop put on the clamp on type or whatnot. Found out my friend has a grinder so going to use that Quote Link to comment
LeX Posted March 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2008 going to see if a dremel with a cutting wheel will just take off the lip on the arm... otherwise then will borrow a grinder this weekend Quote Link to comment
heirfaus Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 If I remember the number correctly the Z31 wheel stud is 10mm longer ZX stud, and I think the ZX is the same as the 510. I put the Z31 ones in my ZX and they worked great. Quote Link to comment
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