removing a 1979 b310 aka 210 strut

[Ira210]

Ok I have 1979 210 and I want to lower the strut so I can cut the spring. Here is question, since I don't have an owners manual, does this nut in the middle hold the black bumper thing in tension so the strut won' t fall and can I loosen it or do I need to compress the spring to drop the strut.

And assuming I get strut lowered is 1 and half coils safe to cut or should I just cut 1. Thanks for the help. :D

[ggzilla]

It's just like any other Datsun strut be it 510 or 240SX. Owner's manual does not show how to repair or service the parts.

 

To remove the strut, do not remove the nut.

 

As long as you don't unbolt the strut center nut on top, there's no danger of the spring flying out.

 

1. Remove two strut-to-knuckle arm bolts

1.1 (maybe) unbolt the tension rod (castor rod) from the LCA

1.2 (maybe) unbolt the swaybar from the LCA

2. Pry LCA down while pulling strut/brake assembly slightly forward

3. One you get them separated, remove the single nut holding the ball joint to knuckle arm. Use the big hammer and pickle fork. I used a 12-lb sledge.

4. Remove the brake line clip and pull the brake line away from the strut

5. Undo the three top nuts, then pull the strut assembly out

 

After you get it out:

1. compress the spring

2. remove the top center nut

3. uncompress the spring

 

Then use your grinder disc or hacksaw to cut the spring.

[Ira210]

Thanks! ;)

[Ira210]

Ok so the 2 17's on the bottom of the strut are suuuper tight will try again tomorrow with neighbors air tools. He is more stoked than I am to lower my beater. He suggested doing it the old school way and just heating the springs till they sagged. I didn't think that was such a good idea. For now I'll post the photos of the 2 bolts I ggzilla told me to remove. Hopefully tomorrow I'll post all photos of job from start to finish. ;)

[ggzilla]

Heating them is not such a bad idea, but they say it is difficult to control the amount of sag, to get it even on both sides.

[metalmonkey47]

Heating them is not such a bad idea, but they say it is difficult to control the amount of sag, to get it even on both sides.

 

But heating them un-evenly results in a different spring rate on each side right? I hear it's VERY difficult to get them properly lowered by heating. Y

 

Cutting seems like the only way to do it right.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ira210,

 

It's pretty easy. What I did was:

 

1. Unhooked the front brake line's from where they come through the body.

2. Remove the two bolts that hold the strut to the steering arm ( I guess is what it's called?) You'll know what I mean when you see it...

3. Pry the LCA down to separate the strut from the ball joint.

4. Unbolt the top of the strut at the top (3 bolts)

5. Pull the strut/brakes down and out of the car

 

 

Easy and they're out!

 

1. Next step is to go to Autozone and pick up a strut spring compressor for $20 in the rental tools at the counter

2. Then set the spring compressor on the coils and wrench down until the coil is loose from the top hat. If not the spring is still under tension and will go flying off as you unbolt the top nut inside the rubber insulator. Be careful!

 

 

After that, cut as you desire. I did 1 1/2 coils and I wasn't satisfied, so I went back and did another 1/2 and now it's perfect for me. Don't go any lower on cut springs.

 

 

Install by the reverse way you took them off.

 

I'll try and find some pics

Edited August 19, 2011 by metalmonkey47

[Ira210]

Thanks for the input MM47. On my struts it looks as if I remove the two bolts and the thing they were attached too falls down and out of the way so long as the strut is still bolted into the top. Sorry about my lack of car jargon I was a bike mechanic and only started working on cars out of necessity. I've done vw clutches and engine swaps In my 84 westy so really how hard can a strut be? Any way already got a pickle fork and the spring compressor from my local autowhore. Do I really need to mess with the pickle fork cause like I said it looks like the strut is totally separate from anything that would need to be forked! :P

[metalmonkey47]

Unless you plan on doing ball joints, no need for the fork. And yes, it will fall out of the way.

 

Easier then it looks! Just takes time ;)

[Ira210]

Ok so finally got around to cutting springs...f yeah!!!. Basically what I did was remove the front wheels then removed two 17mm bolts from the bottom of the struts. The next step is to remove the three 17s from the top of the strut. Next kinda just wiggled the strut off of the control arm ball joint and rested the coil spring on top of that and the bottom of the strut on a block of wood. I didn't feel like bleeding my brakes so I left the brake lines attached.

Ok so then compress the struts with your loaner strut compressor from where ever you borrowed it from and remove the large nut at the top of the strut. That nut just happened to be the same size as nut on the compressing tool so that was nice. :D

Ok now cut the springs. I cut out 1.5 coils and I think I'm happy with that. My cars looks more evened out. I'm happy.Here is the before and after.

Pretty much do things in reverse order and put back in. The hardest part is getting struts back onto the ball joint on the control arm. I had my girlfriend press the brake while I jacked the strut from the outer part of the brake rotor up and into place. Now my car is moar loar. :P

[ggzilla]

Nice job and good photos/explanation. How's the ride, any bottoming out? Small price to pay for good looks.

[Ira210]

Still rides great! The previous owner drove it like an old grandma over the country roads according to my aunt so despite it's kinda haggard looks it wasn't raced all over the place. Today I think ill start working on some of that rust!