albyneau Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 NO machine shop service or special tools required!!! Go get Dorman wheel stud(s) # 601-157. These are 7/16" thread, and longer than stock by a bit better than an inch. They are splined the right size~ BUT you WILL have to grind a flat in the head so the stud fully seats in the factory location. This provides a double-locking feature to the stud. Get 2 extra lugnuts and a handfull (4-6) of flat washers. For the front hubs align the studs so the flat will pull into the factory step on the back of the hub, generously apply white grease, axle grease, etc., (NOT WD-40) to threads, washers, and spare nut. Run lugnut on UPSIDE DOWN, and torque studs into place. One spare lugnut will do the front, use a fresh one for the rear lest you start damaging stud threads. The rear is a bit trickier! To avoid completely disassemblig the park and hydraulic brakes, AND pressing the bearings off then back on the axles~ you'll need to drill or torch a small hole by the lower rearward backing plate bolt to fit the new stud through~ they're too long to angle into position. Then repeat the process as you did on the front. Don't worry about the hole, it will actually let some cooler air in and help your brakes.... 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Double post much? 1 Quote Link to comment
dvboth Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 NO machine shop service or special tools required!!! Go get Dorman wheel stud(s) # 601-157. These are 7/16" thread, and longer than stock by a bit better than an inch. They are splined the right size~ BUT you WILL have to grind a flat in the head so the stud fully seats in the factory location. This provides a double-locking feature to the stud. Get 2 extra lugnuts and a handfull (4-6) of flat washers. For the front hubs align the studs so the flat will pull into the factory step on the back of the hub, generously apply white grease, axle grease, etc., (NOT WD-40) to threads, washers, and spare nut. Run lugnut on UPSIDE DOWN, and torque studs into place. One spare lugnut will do the front, use a fresh one for the rear lest you start damaging stud threads. The rear is a bit trickier! To avoid completely disassemblig the park and hydraulic brakes, AND pressing the bearings off then back on the axles~ you'll need to drill or torch a small hole by the lower rearward backing plate bolt to fit the new stud through~ they're too long to angle into position. Then repeat the process as you did on the front. Don't worry about the hole, it will actually let some cooler air in and help your brakes.... puttin the lug on backwards to pull the stud in is not healthy for the stud! puts stress on the threads, best to have them pressed in!!! Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 puttin the lug on backwards to pull the stud in is not healthy for the stud! puts stress on the threads, best to have them pressed in!!! If it were really bad for the threads, then how could we torque our wheels on and have the studs last for hundreds of thousands of miles? On this application we're not talking about a huge amount of interference fit. Were that the case, then pressing would indeed be in order. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Lisle #LS22800 $20 bucks at the parts house. Quote Link to comment
dvboth Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 If it were really bad for the threads, then how could we torque our wheels on and have the studs last for hundreds of thousands of miles? On this application we're not talking about a huge amount of interference fit. Were that the case, then pressing would indeed be in order. it's just my 2 cents! usaully you are over torqueing them to get them pulled through the hole, i bet if you used a torque wrench to put them on you would find out, but that's just my opinion. you do it how you want, i am just stating a fact. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 puttin the lug on backwards to pull the stud in is not healthy for the stud! puts stress on the threads, best to have them pressed in!!! There's a few more things to be concerned about than putting the lug backwards. Don't use flat washers. When everything tightens...those washers don't move anymore. That in turn will mess up the threads. Using the bearing I posted a picture of, or pressing them in is a way safer bet. With the bearing, I have messed up maybe 1 stud out of 200. Maybe more. I've been using that thing for years. For anything from a Chevrolet Sprint all the way to Ford/Dodge/Chevy 1 Ton Duallys. Well worth the $20 bucks. Using a press is probably the cleanest way-just time consuming. To avoid disassembling, drill or TORCH a hole in the back of the drum. Really? A torch? Doesn't seem the safest way, considering there is brake fluid and gear lube right there. And anything else that is susceptible to heat. Metal springs. Rubber. I'd think just drilling a hole would be suffice. Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 All great points, guys! I never said it was the only way, or the best way~ but it works in a pinch! Happy Easter! Quote Link to comment
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