Oh DatzenMike.....

[DailyDato]

I had an earlier post, but figured this would be a quicker and easier approach to my answer, seeing im in the middle of my build right now....

 

I have the L series 4 speed bellhousing with the 56mm countershaft bearing. I have the tail half of a FS5W71C, I bored the 1/2 shift hole, and swapped the bearing, I DID NOT HOWEVER get the L case machined to compensate for the thicker gearset of the C series, due to getting snowed in again for the 7th time this year....

 

Can I simply remove the " oil slinger" off the counter shaft, and be alright?? I removed the snap rings off both the L series and the C series, but the only difference I can find is simply the C series, the snap ring only holds the oil slinger on, and on the L seires, nothing, it appears to me that it is just simply there, Will the oil slinger allow enough room to put it all back together with no issues of needing more room, The gears are held on by the giant nut on the other ends of the shafts correct? and not just a simple snap ring. Why would the C series need the additional oil slinging ability, would not the counter shaft humming in some oil be enough slinging?

 

 

[datzenmike]

Yes you could simply remove it but I'm now wondering if that will give enough clearance because the C tranny gears are wider and stick out to the front more than the B. I guess remove it and test fit the case. If the gears won't turn then they are rubbing the case.

 

B case with raised ridge around both bearing holes...

 

 

 

 

Here's a C case and the raised ridge around the top bearing is missing on the bottom counter bearing hole. Damn, I thought I had everything. You may need to use an angle grinder in there to open it up and provide some relief. Just over 0.10" should do it.

 

 

 

.

[erichwaslike]

Yes you could simply remove it but I'm now wondering if that will give enough clearance because the C tranny gears are wider and stick out to the front more than the B. I guess remove it and test fit the case. If the gears won't turn then they are rubbing the case.

 

B case with raised ridge around both bearing holes...

 

 

 

 

Here's a C case and the raised ridge around the top bearing is missing on the bottom counter bearing hole. Damn, I thought I had everything. You may need to use an angle grinder in there to open it up and provide some relief. Just over 0.10" should do it.

 

 

 

.

 

that guy really knows his shit... props to u sir

[DailyDato]

Well as of today, everything went together well, case fit snug, and all turns well, and shifts smooth, well as smooth as possible with no gearoil.....but now more problems....

 

Seeing that I never thought about what i was doing.... a C series has an electronic speedo drive.....I need cable, the drive out of the L series fits the hole, and the lock plate and bolt as well, but I have the wrong gear counts, with the L series drive, kinda snug force fitted, figured it was the new o ring i was using, damn generic Napa... it does not allow the output shaft to turn very easily, say I shift into 1st gear and turn the input shaft, it will move but its hard, any other gear, and its big NO.....What should I do, what could I do, or is there simply a drop in drive out of whatever that would fit and work, even if it were to match the gear IN the transmisssion, is it possible to use like an old school GM cable adapter with additional gear combination to help regulate my speedo to the correct amount?

[datzenmike]

Without the speedo pinion in the tail stock the input turns freely in all gears? Yes???

 

It's only tight after it is installed???

 

I'm still woried about the clearance at the front by the 'oil slinger'.

[DailyDato]

Yeah, with out the speedo drive, everything is great, but once i pop the drive in, it starts binding up, wonder if there is a gear mesh/ratio difference between the 77 L series and the 92 C series, I would think yes, but its odd, the L series speedo drive, if i turn it around 180 while it is installed, the drag on the output shaft/ input shaft turning is lessened greatly, to my eye, it does not appear that the drive has an offset to the gear and housing, im gonna make an attempt to get in the shop tonight again and see if i can find out more info, so far all i know is that the C series depending on sub model, has either a 20 or 21 tooth putput drive gear.

[datzenmike]

Sorry, had to go out.

 

Do not run that speedo pinion in the C tail stock.

 

B type pinion

 

C type pinion

 

The pre '80 speedo pinions won't work in the C type. There is an offset difference, 180 degrees actually. What you need is the correct pinion gear color from an '80 and up B or C type.

 

OR

 

Take to a machine shop and have a second key way cut 180 around on the pinion. (also see 2nd picture above)

 

 

 

 

.

[DailyDato]

If I get the second key way cut, what is the possibility that the gear on the drive from the L series will corresponde to the C series for speedometer accuracy? I know my output drive is 20, and I didnt count the drive gear, but I know its red, and from a 77 L series.

[DailyDato]

and from your pics, I see now where the offset sits, mine is so dirty I didn't clean the outer part yet, i just sprayed it with some brake kleen and stuck it in, plus i was holding it in my hand when i was looking at it too, but you always seem to have really awesome pics, are they of stuff you have or just pics your had over the years

[datzenmike]

 

The worm gear inside the B & C trannys should be the same. Different rear ratios and tire sizes are corrected by using different pinion gears.

 

Yellow .......... 16 tooth

Black ............ 17 tooth

Blue .............. 18 tooth

White ............ 19 tooth

Red ............... 20 tooth

Purple ........... 21 tooth

(unknown)...... 22 tooth

 

If you have a steady hand you could nick it with an angle grinder yourself.

 

Some, (a lot by some standards) of tranny related pics are mine but if I come across ones the better explain something I 'grab' them.

[DailyDato]

Ah ha, thats some real good info you got there with the teeth to color chart, can i use any nissan cable drive gears; that is in relation to the color needed to adjust the speedo? Im gonna try tha grinder idea, I'm just gonna bolt it back in to the B series case and hit it from there, But after all your guru answers I have to say thanks a lot, without your input, I would have been days into this thing.... Do you think this is a good setup to run behind a stock L20B? I mean the only difference I can find is that the C series is just a smidge higher geared than the old 4 speed, a overall difference of 1st .339 2nd .278 3rd .112, But what would the effect of the 5th gear of .759 do for highway cruise, I know it is worth having another gear, but is .759 too much for the power output of my motor? Isnt the C-series considered a mid ratio trans, or do they also come in closer or wider versions?

[DailyDato]

oh yeah BTW my truck has a factory 4.38 rear, I figured the low gear and the slight difference in the trans would affect too much

[datzenmike]

The speedo pinion gear is matched or mated to your particular differential ratio. Because you have not changed the rear end it will give the same reading with any other tranny it would fit into. I believe that (by part number) you would need a plastic cog from a pre '80 transmission if you wished to change the speedometer reading. If you can get the red one to fit it should be fine.

 

I think you're 1st is 3.321 which is identical to your '77 tranny that was in your truck. The monster overdrive should be ok with a light truck and 4.375 gears. Never tow, pass, carry heavy loads or climb steep hills in 5th. Downshift to 4th. The L20B should be able to cruise in 5th at highway speeds.

[DailyDato]

Ya your right with the gearing, I was just merely stating the difference between the old vs. new. well, I won't make it to the shop tonight to get the speedo drive cut and rotated, but i'll let you know how the progress goes from here, but thanks again for all your help.