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WTB L20


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I have a couple potential rebuilders... but neither are wholly complete and assembled. One is complete MINUS the fuel pump, distributor, and carb, though I could always throw on core ones if you really wanted those parts. I know nothing about it other than it bars over with a wrench. That one for $100. The other one is missing those parts and the manifolds aren't installed, though I could include those too as I have them. That one would be $75, but I also know that it has a "tick" when running after it was overheated (though it didn't put water in the oil, it did get rather warm)

 

One is a '78-79 type with W58 head (the one with manifolds attached) and the other is a '75-77 type with U67 head and the "heat riser" type manifolds are present but not installed.

 

Both are out of trucks. Neither have flywheels. I have flywheels but they'd be an extra $10.

 

The big issue is you'd have to lift them. My engine hoist is broken. And of course you'd have to come up here (Tacoma, WA area) to get them.

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Thanks datsunaholic! I mostly didn't want one in peices but if the intake and exhaust manifolds are off thats fine. Well which head is the better one to have and is there really any difference in the blocks or crank's from those different years? I will have to figure something out bout getting up to you. I will buy one of those from you tho if i can't find anything around here.

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The blocks and cranks aren't any different. Most people will say the U67 head is superior to the W58. Only time the W58 may be preferred is if 1) trying to keep a '78-79 car smog legal or 2) you happen to have a round-port header, since it's a round-port head. Plus some W58s are closed-chamber (99% sure this one is NOT closed chamber being a stock truck engine); ALL U67 heads are open chamber as far as I know.

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