My 77 280z

[RSready]

Hey guys. First time poster here!

 

I've owned a 240sx for about 10 years now and I've had an SR20 swap for 6-7 years. The car has been a lot of fun and I've turned just about every bolt on that car.

 

A few months ago I decided to pick up a beat up 280z that has definitely seen better days. I didn't pay much for it, but it's been a pretty cool project to screw around with when I'm bored.

 

Check out my Facebook album for pics:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=552336&id=573090082&l=7621c17a91

 

 

As you can see, it was many different colours when I picked it up. I cleaned it up a bit and POR15'd the major rust, then sprayed about 16 cans of flat white onto it. (Flat white is the new flat black right?)

I picked up some powdercoated ZX six spokes which I'll put on in the spring and I found some Suspension Techniques springs for cheap which I'll mate with some new struts when the snow melts.

I'm going to spend the winter seeing what else I can scrounge together for the car. Does anyone have a list of junkyard parts from other cars that are good upgrades for these Z cars? I know the S13 I have can use Z or Altima/Maxima brakes or Maxima MAFs. Any good upgradeable parts in junkyards for these cars? I don't want to sink a ton of money into the Datsun, just make it a fun car and decent on the eyes.

One question I did have was about the little valence/spoiler thing that flows into the rear bumper. How big of a pain in the ass is it to remove? I hate the park bench bumpers, so there are gone, but that thing looks pretty nasty too. Should I just chop it off when I remove the bumper shocks?

[Xander_42]

Cool project. I'm kinda looking to make one of my next projects a 280Z, so I feel you there. Your car's gonna look real good with the new wheels on it.

 

I'm no Z guy but I've done a little reading about these cars, so here's my $0.02. You could get a 60mm throttle body from a 240sx, then port match the intake manifold. It apparently isn't good for any more power on the stock system but apparently gives a little better throttle reasponse. The bottle neck in the system in terms of airflow is the plenum (I hear): Write up You should be able to pick one up at a you pull yard for a pittance, people sell these for like $200 on forums, but they are probably not worth more than like $25.

 

Dealing with the restriction in the plenum would be fairly cheap, but would be time consuming and require skill and tools, or it would be expensive. You could do it yourself, but you would need to cut part of the plenum off, port and polish the plenum, runners, and transitions. Then the plenum would have to be welded back together. So if you've got time, welding skill, and know how to optimize airflow, this could be a good upgrade for you. Not a 280, but this is what I'm talking about. Integra Plenum Porting

 

Apparently the 84-86 BMW 320i AFM is a good upgrade, I have not seen a write up on this, so I don't know how complicated it is. It might be basically the same part, but with less restriction, or it might be a completely different, I have no idea.

 

Alternatively you could just rip out the EFI and go with triple webbers/mikunis.

 

As far as cheap upgrade parts, watch the classifieds here and on HybridZ for headers, LSDs, and whatever else is comes up, because if you want to do this project on a reasonable budget, used parts are your friend.

 

Upgrades other than that, there's probably a pretty good rear disc upgrade,nit sure what it would be, probably ZX calipers and rotors with custom brackets. Front brakes, may also be able to do a ZX upgrade, or you could go for a Z32 Rearcaliper setup, not sure what would be required for it, but it sure would look cool.

 

Rear disc write up

Rear disc brackets

 

The stiffer springs will do a lot for your handling, but springs without matched dampers will make you bouncy, and poorly balanced, I would guess there are some Tokicos or Konis that you can use. You'll probably also want to do some bushing replacement either stock style rubber replacements or Polyurethane.

 

Good luck, should be cool whatever you do.

[RSready]

Thanks for the reply and the tips!

 

I'm actually do a Chump Car race this spring with a different 240sx so I'll have a few parts cars in a couple days when they get delivered. I'll steal a throttle body off one of them!

 

Yes, I do need to look into an LSD. I found a N/A Z32 diff for free, but the seller isn't sure if it's open or an LSD and is too far away to test it, so that may be a possibility in the future.

 

The car actually does have rear discs from a few owners before me. The previous owner told me that the front brakes were moved to the rear and then Maxima or Altima calipers were swapped in up front. I haven't taken a look at them yet to confirm any of that, but that's what I was told. I have no ebrake which I guess makes sense if he moved the fronts to the rear.

 

And if anyone wants to buy those nasty wheels that are on the Z now, you can have them!

[Xander_42]

Sounds kinda sketch. If you wanted a parking brake you could add a line lock, if you wanted an emergency brake, you could do it right, or if you don't care, drive it like you stole it, and hope the brakes don't fail.

 

As far as getting rid of those wheels... good luck :rofl: they're like original Viper wheels only way uglier. Also, cool! My family has been talking about doing a Chump Car, there's actually an RX-7 (SA22/FB GSL) that might end up as one, we'll see.

[Xander_42]

Also, desmogging the crap out of that thing should do you a lot of good. Not sure what all these had, or what your emissions laws are like in Alberta (I'm gonna guess fairly lax due to low pop. density, but I could be wrong). If you can get rid of stuff, you can eliminate EGR, PCV, Cat, smog pump, and a number of other things. Not sure where all of this is on these cars, or how you would delete it, or if the stock computer could handle it being gone, but if it is possible, you could save some pretty serious weight, and make a little more power without all this crap. I would also like to say that if you have issues with polluting (which I'm gonna guess you don't), the emissions controls systems probably aren't working anyways. If the stock ECU doesn't like being desmogged, you could go standalone with a MegaSquirt, or something more expensive (SDS, DTA, MoTec, etc.). But I think you can get the stock computer to work while desmoged. Building a good heat shield (or modifying the stock one) and removing the water lines that heat the intake manifold, could help to keep te intake charge cool and make some more power. I believe a good heat shield has an air gap, and possibly some gold reflective stuff. Also, if you get a header, doing some header wrap/ceramic coating, at least on the tube close to the intake manifold should also help to keep the IATs (Intake Air Temps) down. I would guess that header wrapping the stock manifold would be infeasible/dumb.

[Skib]

alrighty, hers the skinny on the OP and all the other shit thats been posted before.

 

 

 

 

I'm going to spend the winter seeing what else I can scrounge together for the car. Does anyone have a list of junkyard parts from other cars that are good upgrades for these Z cars?

 

yota 4x4 "S+12" 4 piston calipers are a bolt on upgrade from the stock 2 piston. just have to trim the dust shield

 

some late Z31 turbos have an R200 VLSD.

 

you can also get an intake off an early 280z and it dosent have and EGR port to block off and has no webs between the runners.

 

 

 

One question I did have was about the little valence/spoiler thing that flows into the rear bumper. How big of a pain in the ass is it to remove? I hate the park bench bumpers, so there are gone, but that thing looks pretty nasty too. Should I just chop it off when I remove the bumper shocks?

 

remiving the park benches shaves ~80lbs. IIRC that thing blots in but if you have to cut it go for it.

 

 

You could get a 60mm throttle body from a 240sx, then port match the intake manifold. It apparently isn't good for any more power on the stock system but apparently gives a little better throttle reasponse.

 

240SX TB provieds nothing but throttle responce and will need to have a 1in spacer and mods of the linkage to fit the stock mech. linkage.

 

 

The bottle neck in the system in terms of airflow is the plenum (I hear)

 

stock L28 intake bottle neck is the runners. there shithouse.

 

Apparently the 84-86 BMW 320i AFM is a good upgrade

 

nope.

[Skib]

Alternatively you could just rip out the EFI and go with triple webbers/mikunis.

 

ya you can do that, tripples and duel SU's are both good carb options.

 

As far as cheap upgrade parts, watch the classifieds here and on HybridZ for headers, LSDs, and whatever else is comes up, because if you want to do this project on a reasonable budget, used parts are your friend.

 

word/\

 

 

Upgrades other than that, there's probably a pretty good rear disc upgrade,nit sure what it would be, probably ZX calipers and rotors with custom brackets. Front brakes, may also be able to do a ZX upgrade, or you could go for a Z32 Rearcaliper setup, not sure what would be required for it, but it sure would look cool.

 

dont even bother with rear disk on the the Z, getting good brake shoes for the rear and keeping them within spec are more than enough.

 

 

The stiffer springs will do a lot for your handling, but springs without matched dampers will make you bouncy, and poorly balanced, I would guess there are some Tokicos or Konis that you can use. You'll probably also want to do some bushing replacement either stock style rubber replacements or Polyurethane.

 

you can pick up low/stiff springs from MSA (thezstore.com) or weld in coil overs from techno toy tuning.

[Skib]

Yes, I do need to look into an LSD. I found a N/A Z32 diff for free, but the seller isn't sure if it's open or an LSD and is too far away to test it, so that may be a possibility in the future.

 

not gonna fit

 

The car actually does have rear discs from a few owners before me. The previous owner told me that the front brakes were moved to the rear and then Maxima or Altima calipers were swapped in up front. I haven't taken a look at them yet to confirm any of that, but that's what I was told. I have no ebrake which I guess makes sense if he moved the fronts to the rear.

 

WTF? :huh:

 

 

Also, desmogging the crap out of that thing should do you a lot of good. Not sure what all these had, or what your emissions laws are like in Alberta (I'm gonna guess fairly lax due to low pop. density, but I could be wrong). If you can get rid of stuff, you can eliminate EGR, PCV, Cat, smog pump, and a number of other things. Not sure where all of this is on these cars, or how you would delete it, or if the stock computer could handle it being gone

 

desmog all you want if you dont have DEQ/smog. no power upper but its less shit in the way.

 

Building a good heat shield (or modifying the stock one) and removing the water lines that heat the intake manifold, could help to keep te intake charge cool and make some more power. I believe a good heat shield has an air gap, and possibly some gold reflective stuff.

 

stock intake has a shield

 

 

Also, if you get a header, doing some header wrap/ceramic coating, at least on the tube close to the intake manifold should also help to keep the IATs (Intake Air Temps) down.

 

wrap it if your on a budget. all of it.

 

I would guess that header wrapping the stock manifold would be infeasible/dumb.

 

wrapping anything that puts out that much heat is not dumb and deff not infeasible

[datzenmike]

Also, desmogging the crap out of that thing should do you a lot of good...... If you can get rid of stuff, you can eliminate EGR, PCV, Cat, smog pump, and a number of other things.

 

First of all, emission systems back 30 years ago didn't do much. And had minimal effect on the running. The biggest killer was lowering the compression. Engines made piles of emissions and the controls were there to clean it up after it was made. Air pumps to add oxygen to burn off unburnt hydrocarbons, cats to burn of the same thing. Today's engines can't do anything unless the emission controls allow it and are totally controlled by them.

 

EGR a system always misunderstood. There is NO EGR at idle and full throttle!!!!! Therefore EGR cannot affect true performance. EGR is added to reduce excessive cylinder temperatures (1200F +) that lead to the bonding of oxygen and nitrogen present in the combustion chamber. A small amount of oxygen depleted exhaust is mixed with the incoming fuel air mix and this will lower the temps a couple of hundred degrees and not seriously affect anything. This has no effect on economy and little on part throttle performance. The biggest detriment to performance is an EGR system that is not maintained (leaky valve) or improperly removed. (poorly sealed)

 

PCV This is truly the most benign 'emission device' ever put on a motor. It has absolutely ZERO effect on idle, part throttle, full throttle performance or economy yet has many definite benefits. The PCV uses a small amount of manifold vacuum to draw combustion by-products or blow-by past the rings from inside the crank case and runs them through the intake and burns them off. Water vapor, gas and oil vapors are also eliminated this way. Getting rid of these prevents them condensing inside the motor when it cools overnight. Left, they will contaminate and dilute the oil. The PCV valve allows engines to run cleaner and much longer between oil changes. My dad's (pre PCV by 10 years) '51 Chev had the oil pan off to replace the main bearings. The pan had a one inch thick white 'paste' in the bottom. This was condensed fuel and water that collected in the bottom. We always wondered why an oil change only used 3 quarts of oil.

[Skib]

pull the wheels off and get pics of your front and rear brakes so we can see wtf is going on with that shit :huh:

[RSready]

Hey thanks for all the replies. You're getting me on the right track.

 

I just came across a diff for sale locally that I don't know much about and can't find much info about. It's a front differential out of a 720 and apparently its an R180 with 4.11 gears. Seller says it swaps into a Z, but I'd like to get another opinion. Anyone done it? Is there any possibility it's LSD? Is it worth it alone for the 4.11 gears (I'm not going to be doing any highway or extremely high speed racing) or should I try to find an LSD, assuming this one isn't?