What is the easiest way to change points

[jeepinjakear15]

I have a datsun L-320 with a J15 does anyone know if you can put a pertronix on this? The other question is what is the easiest way to change the points should I just pull the distributor? I left the key on one day and the wire that goes to the condensor melted my friend said the points looked good is that all you can fry? If I had a ballast resistor bewtween the coil and 12 volt source would it fix the frying problem? Sorry for all the questions but I'm 25 and have never had to mess with points until now

[jeepinjakear15]

Check out this video on YouTube:

 

 

 

Sent from Jacob Hilliard's iPhone

[I'm BLUE]

I have a datsun L-320 with a J15 does anyone know if you can put a pertronix on this? The other question is what is the easiest way to change the points should I just pull the distributor? I left the key on one day and the wire that goes to the condensor melted my friend said the points looked good is that all you can fry? If I had a ballast resistor bewtween the coil and 12 volt source would it fix the frying problem? Sorry for all the questions but I'm 25 and have never had to mess with points until now

 

The only true way to SET points is a dwell meter , given that fact many people adjust with point gappers and are fine.

 

You shouldn't have to pull the distributor unless there is something super special about your particular distributor I am not aware of.

 

Pop the cap , should only be a hold down screw and many times is the same for adjustment for the air gap ( I have not done your model so I could be just a bit off on that fact ) ,,, do you have a haynes or FSM manual for reference ( even google the thing if you don't ) for specs ?

 

condensor's are usually on the outside of the distributor , like 1 screw , and 1 wire or what not ? takes 30 seconds to change !

 

If you are planning to do the points and what not , might as well throw a set of spark plugs ( under gap them by .001-.002 for break in period is what I do ) , wires , cap , and rotor as well as adjust the carb(s) to the the new plugs for optimum performance ...

 

Remember to use PLENTY of Anti-Seize Lubricant compound on your spark plug threads , to help sustain the threads , and be ease of use for each time you maintenance the plugs.

 

Good Luck ! :D

[I'm BLUE]

what you need to know is it is VERY easy , just set the gap correctly and you will be fine ! always replace points/condensor in a set for good measure ;) :D

 

I have no idea whether or not pertronix fits your model ,,, but I currently run a pertronix module in my 240z , and am lovin not having to change those pesky things or worry about em ! works with my factory ballast resistor/coil range as well , but I added the pertronix "flamethrower coil" to gain power at 700-3,000 rpm's ,,,, it really does work , and I usually don't shift above 3,000 in the city anyways ;) ---> ( highway is a different story :devil: ) ,,,, uhhhh I mean :angel: :ninja:

[ggzilla]

With brand new points, you can set it with a feeler gauge. No dwell meter is necessary. But with used points, the feeler gauge will not be accurate.

 

Set your new points now, and no worries for the next 12 months.

 

 

I would try adapting a A14 electronic distributor rather than attempt a Pertronix. They don't see a a J-series kit. If somebody in Seattle has a J i can take a look at it. I have a few A-series distributors.

[I'm BLUE]

With brand new points, you can set it with a feeler gauge. No dwell meter is necessary. But with used points, the feeler gauge will not be accurate.

 

Set your new points now, and no worries for the next 12 months.

 

 

I would try adapting a A14 electronic distributor rather than attempt a Pertronix. They don't see a a J-series kit. If somebody in Seattle has a J i can take a look at it. I have a few A-series distributors.

 

Correct ^^^ , Dwell is still MOST accurate if tools accessible. Yes , Feeler gauges work fine :)