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Electric Dizzy


JayRyt

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Ok so where to begin, I got a protronix kit a bit ago which I had installed with a Crame Fireball Coil.

Coil fried the set up after a hour or two of driving, so I exchanged it for another protronix.

This time I set it up with a stock coil (with a resistor) got it to drive up til yesterday.

I came around a corner and she started giving out, though it was fuel cause I had been a little low.

filled it up past half tank and nothing, tryed changing out the cap and rotor to see if it would help

and it only got worse. So now what my issue is I played with it found im getting spark air and fuel but combustion,

The timings off for sure but the timings nowhere in between retarted and advanced.

Its almost a 90 degree turn counter clock wise!

I dont know what to do next

 

Thanks for reading!

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The pertronix is best used with a stock coil and ballast resistor.Otherwise they can pop. Unilites also will Pop if no ballast resisitor is used. or the low resisitanc coil installed and no ballast.

 

youll have 2 wires from the Pertronix.red is +12 blk is the trigger that goes to the - side coil as in the instructions.

The red goes to the plus side of ballast resisitor where the blk/wht wire is.Or where the +12volt is when key is ON

 

then youl have a bypass wire that goes staright to the +side coil. this is for starting. Bypasses resisitor during the START position on key switch. so give more voltage.

 

If this is the same distributor at TDC the plug wire should be in the same place.

If you installed a diffent distributor the rotor could be in a different position than the last one.

 

so put motor to TDC over on crank and ck where the distributor points to.

 

read in the "How to "section how to hook this up

 

 

also ck the tape on the magnet ring incase it ripped off and the magnets went flying out.

 

also if positibve this is all hooked up right then make sure to ck your valve lash.

 

I Love the Pertronix and swear by them but some how people dont read the instructions and put wrong value coils in there or remove the ballst resisitor. It says use the stock equivl stuff.

 

olddatsuns.com is your friend

 

http://www.guba.com/watch/3000024223/Hainz-Datsun-L-Series-Engine-01-Timing-Tare-down-and-Rebuild

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Excuse me I'm horrible at explaining this im sorry

 

So I have a 72 datsun 620, with a l18 5 speed

 

I just got a protronix ignition for it, put it into a dizzy from a 78 79 620.

Got everything I need to start Spark, Air, and Fuel.

So I did a test where I had the electric on the car on,

and held a spark plug wire at a distance from the head.

then moved the dizzy around to time it.

I get spark at a 90 degree angle from normal timing range.

Im told my teeth may be off?

Im just lost and not sure what to do next.

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The pertronix is best used with a stock coil and ballast resistor.Otherwise they can pop. Unilites also will Pop if no ballast resisitor is used. or the low resisitanc coil installed and no ballast.

 

youll have 2 wires from the Pertronix.red is +12 blk is the trigger that goes to the - side coil as in the instructions.

The red goes to the plus side of ballast resisitor where the blk/wht wire is.Or where the +12volt is when key is ON

 

then youl have a bypass wire that goes staright to the +side coil. this is for starting. Bypasses resisitor during the START position on key switch. so give more voltage.

 

If this is the same distributor at TDC the plug wire should be in the same place.

If you installed a diffent distributor the rotor could be in a different position than the last one.

 

so put motor to TDC over on crank and ck where the distributor points to.

 

read in the "How to "section how to hook this up

 

 

also ck the tape on the magnet ring incase it ripped off and the magnets went flying out.

 

also if positibve this is all hooked up right then make sure to ck your valve lash.

 

I Love the Pertronix and swear by them but some how people dont read the instructions and put wrong value coils in there or remove the ballst resisitor. It says use the stock equivl stuff.

 

olddatsuns.com is your friend

 

http://www.guba.com/...own-and-Rebuild

 

Thanks Hainz ill do some reading and check all the above! :lol:

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I think this is what happened. Your plug wires are off.

or maybe a mismatched timming plate.

 

thats why you need to line up the motor to Zero on crank at TDC. You can open the oil cap and look at that lobe and if its near the 10 o clock position you know your on compression stroke. As that is the intake lobe.

 

Now once you go it on TDC Zero deg mark your spindle should be in the 1127 11.28 position as looking from the intake/exhaust side of block. If this is correct then you know your not off a tooth. Your motor is for all said porposes is timmed.

Now where the rotor points too it better be on a plug wire. and you should be in the middle of the timming plate.. If not in middle of timming plate. did you use a different mount? Most time when one graps a dizzy you should take the mount w/ thimm plate as a set. as over the years they were some changes.

 

if you watch the vid it will expain enough to get you buy.

 

1 3 4 2 counter clock wise is the fire order.

simple fix

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First off you can't put a pertronix in a 78-79 Datsun truck distributor. Those are already electronic, have no points mounting holes to put the ignitor assembly. Second, the 78 and 79 distributors are completely different to begin with- 78s used an external ignition box, and '79s were the matchbox type with the module mounted to the dist body.

 

So you have a dist from an unknown application.

 

But that doesn't matter. You got the thing mounted and it kind of works.

 

If the firing is 90deg off, just change the plug wires to the right order... they're 90 deg off of each other anyway.

 

Using the fireball coil fried the first pertronix. Common issue.

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I'll let you know as soon as I get somewhere hainz, altho I guess it would help to mention I had someone do the install the first time. The guy from the shop gave me the the dizzy with the protronix set up in it, connected to a crane Fireball Coil and no resistor, it blew up crn-ps91.gif

here is a image of my dizzy with the protronix

P1120764.jpg

 

This is what it was set up with the coil before it died on me mid drive.

 

P1120765.jpg

 

And this is how it sits now, it back fires from the carb no matter which way I move the dizzy

 

P1120763.jpg

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First off you can't put a pertronix in a 78-79 Datsun truck distributor. Those are already electronic, have no points mounting holes to put the ignitor assembly. Second, the 78 and 79 distributors are completely different to begin with- 78s used an external ignition box, and '79s were the matchbox type with the module mounted to the dist body.

 

So you have a dist from an unknown application.

 

But that doesn't matter. You got the thing mounted and it kind of works.

 

If the firing is 90deg off, just change the plug wires to the right order... they're 90 deg off of each other anyway.

 

Using the fireball coil fried the first pertronix. Common issue.

 

It's to late for me to continue tonight i'll try that out tomorrow, thanks Datsunaholic.

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did you read my post carefully.?????

You need the ballast resistor and the stock coil. I see the 2nd photo and the ballast is not hooked up.

 

Where is the hot start wire. This wire will have 12volt on start position. This goes to +side of coil.

the 12volt ON wire goies the the ballaste resisitor. then other side of ballast goes to the +side coil so Youll have 2 wires on there.

1.6 ohm coil and 1.6 ohn ballast/

 

but you have to watch the vid Homey!!!!!this will help lining up the distributor if its 90 deg off.

Move the plug wires. But line it up and youll figure this out

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I did everything you said Hainz I swear! I made a little progress today. Got it to start for just a min off just a coil, then a small back fire and it dies. Do you think that its this distributor like Datsunaholic suggested? Again I thank you so much for all the help, I have learned so much from just working on this ignition project of mine.

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What year 620 is this?

 

Either way, BOTH pictures show it hooked up wrong.

 

The top pic, you're missing the hot-start wire.

 

The bottom pic, is a good way to fry the pertronix and the coil. The ballast MUST be hooked up.

 

72, Oh I know but it ran and started both ways with and without the ballast.

Hot-start? do you mean the wire to the ignition? or is there another wire for the dizzy?

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The hot start wire is the one that gives full 12V to the coil when cranking, bypassing the resistor. I've had a few vehicles that wouldn't start without it, though most did.

 

The dist you have is fine. It's not a '78 or 79 dist. The pertronix wouldn't fit in one- no where for the magnet ring, since that slides over the points cam which the later dists don't have. What you have appears to be an early, 1969 or older dist or a non-US spec single points dist, since it has a small cap and everything from '74-on used a large cap, and everything from 70-73 used dual points (which doesn't take the pertronix).

 

Now, it's possible you have the wrong dist pedestal or adjuster plate. Those parts are very specific and with a non-original dist parts get mixed up and don't work. But the engine would have NEVER run in that situation.

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Jay

Datsunaholic and I have stated already you need to find the hot start wire.and hook it back up to stock setting.

 

yes it can run what you have but not long/or hard start/burn out Pertonix.

Pertronix instruction say use the stock stuff or equiv. and use the ballast. Must be under 4 amps.

 

I dont know the color codes on a 620

but on a 510

12Volt ON wire is the blk/white wire

Hot START is the Blk blu wire and its Y spliced to a Blk/grn.

 

watch the vid on the distributor install on my video.

 

 

I can post my photos/drawings) anymore in here but olddatsuns.com has the most infor

 

PS Yu have a Mitshibishi import distributor. I have converted 2 of them so far myself.

 

 

PS this is a EZ fix.

 

find the stock coil and use the ballast resisitor and get your volt meter out and find these wires.

The HOT START wire only has 12volts in the START position.

so pull the starter wire off the starter so it dont crank and find this wire.i can hook this up for you but will be 5K$

 

http://dimequarterly.com/ has the basic eleltrical diagram for a 510. should be close to the same on a 620

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I just wasn't getting it for the longest time I couldn't see it,

My buddy came over and explained to me what I wasn't getting.

Thank you again for all the help she's up and running like a champ again,

I'm gonna hit the books more to better understand ignition. :P

 

Thanks Again!

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