bilzbobaggins Posted July 30, 2010 Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 Hello. Have a brake issue. After driving and stopping a few times, the Left front brake starts dragging bad. I jacked it up and took the drum off. The shoes are toast. Heres the thing. It will release pressure from the wheel cylinder if it sets overnight. If i crack the bleeder, the thing closes fast as crap. Looks to be farily new as well. My pops said on the the v/w's, the rubber line can collapse in on it self. Easy to get pressure thu it whit your foot but harder for the spring to do the same thing. Any thoughts. Ive got one ordered(rubber brake line), but would like some of everyones thoughts. All the other's are adj correctly and I adj the pedal where the master cylinder rod connects. Thanks Jeff Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 30, 2010 Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 If there was residual pressure in the line from the master it would affect more than one brake I would think. Did you say that when dragging you open the bleeder? Did brake fluid squirt out???? Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted July 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 oh yeah, it squirts the hell outta there when I crack it with pressure(not from pushing pedal) jefff Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 30, 2010 Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 Yeah, change the flex hose. This will likely cure it. I've also heard of this happening to flex lines. The biggest cause of residual pressure is an incorrecr peddle 'free play' adjustment. Quote Link to comment
fryenretards Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 could there be a blockage like a loose piece of rust at the distribution block thats acting like a check valve basically Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 The Law of Parsimony, also known as Occam' razor, suggests the the simplest answer is usually the correct one. In other words if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck and quacks like a duck.... it's more likely it's a duck than anything else. The flex lines have been known to separate inside and a flap of material act as a one way valve. I suppose that a piece of large rust flake could do the same but is much less likely. Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted August 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 GFD!!!I changed the L/F brake hose(fixed da problem, yay!), then got cute and decided to do the other side....broke my fucking hard line.... What should I do folks???Couple websites say they have the part 46420-b0100 but everytime a site lists something for this truck, they normally dont carry it..ggrrrrrrrr What are the thread sizes on the nuts???? Can I use a generic one such as this one? oriley I rememeber threads that say we have goofy sizes on everything Thanks Jeff Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted August 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 shoot....is it the M10x1.0?????if so im in luck hopefully Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 8, 2010 Report Share Posted August 8, 2010 Save the threaded nut and slide it further up the line. Borrow a flair tool and re flair the line. Or remove the line and measure the length. Take the threaded nut with you and look through the metric brake lines for a pre-made one no shorter than the one you need. Compare the end flairs and threads. Shouldn't be more that about $8. Copy the bends by using a round of wood to keep from kinking. Doesn't have to be perfect, just has to work. Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted August 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Got it!!!! It wasnt a metric fitting that it took...lmao....NAPA had a display so I took the hose and broke line and messed around till I found one!!!! Yay!!!! Thanks dude!!! :D Quote Link to comment
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