Hood frame?

[what]

Hi. The under side of my hood were the hood frame is has came off the sheet metal of the hood ( make scense?) It looks like the frame of the hood was tacked down with some sort of hard glue from the factory? What is a good product to get the sheet metal of the hood back down tight to the frame of the hood?

[kmc63]

Tack weld,fiberglass,epoxy resin,plexus. There are an over abundance of new formulations any one of which would work.I would build a wooden jig to set the hood on,upside down so you dont loose your shape when you re-attach the skeleton to the hood. You will have to put weight on the skeleton to bond them together.

[oneslick720]

you can buy the glue at auto stores just called panel adhesive but make sure its where it needs to be before you set it that stuff is serious

[steve g]

you can buy the glue at auto stores just called panel adhesive but make sure its where it needs to be before you set it that stuff is serious

 

:thumbup:

[Braden]

i have the same problem but if i push the support up and glue it to the sheetmetal it will pull the top of the hood down? its like the support shrunk or something, and i really dont wanna go cutting on it, what do you guys think? i can take some pics and show you if you like

[kmc63]

That is precisely the reason I said it needs to be put on a jig. I have been through this!

[Figbuck]

I have been through three hoods and all of them had eventually had the same problem where "glue" they used to attached the skin to frame cracked or came loose. The last couple hoods I painted, I used clear DAP 230 latex/silicon interior/exterior window and door caulk, you can get at any Home Depot or lumber yard hardware store. I cut the tip so a big bead came out and laid a nice big bead along in the joint. This stuff is water cleanup and you can trowel or tool it to make the joint look cosmetically pretty, then easily clean any goop off. One of the hoods had almost a 5/16" gap and I had to make two passes to fill the joint.

 

It takes a day or two to cure but it dries flexible and if you ever need to scarf it out it is not welded on. The reason I use Dap is because it is cheap, works well and accepts paint, where straight silicone doesn't. After I painted the hood, you can't really tell what I did. The joint is flexible so that no mater how many times I have slammed the hood it hasn't cracked. It got rid of the rattle that the hood skin was making at certain RPMs.

 

I ask the counter guy at my automotive paint supplier what to use and he tried to get me to use a one part Polyurethane "Seam Sealer" that was pretty expensive but it needed a specific caulk gun that cost four time as much as a tube of sealer.