Str8_69 Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 Ok, I searched but didn't find anything, so... Gotta replace the pan gasket on the 620. Book says to remove center link and BOTH tie rods, but looking at the thing, it appears just removing the center link will be enough. Maybe I'm missing something, but it's a new truck to me. Mostly asking so I can estimate how much time to put aside to do it. Another question, before replacing the wheels and tires, the rear end had a wicked shimmy between 50-60 mph, figured it was flat spots in the tires from sitting so long. New tires and all balanced up, the shimmy has narrowed down to about a 5 mph window, and not as bad but still a pisser. The u-joints are tight, and the carrier seems solid, but I'm thinkin' the carrier is the most likely, as it does have a little play, but not near as much as I've seen on other rigs without problem. Any input appreciated. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 When i did the pan gasket on my 510 wagon i ended up removing all the motor mount bolts & jacking up the motor as high as i could & did the replacement from underneath. What a pain in my ass!! I wouldve rather pulled the motor than be under the car for hours. On the 620's like you said the centerlink unbolts...that should be enough. Drain the oil 1st, & an important thing to remember is when putting the 10mm bolts back on is....dont overtighten & do them in a pattern like you would lug nuts so as to not crush the gasket. Should be a 2 hour job if there arent any "snags" Quote Link to comment
pharouh Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 I took the oil pan off my 620 the other day. All I did was remove the bolts holding the steering box and the idler arm on the passenger side frame rail. Then removed the crossmember under the oil pan(4 bolts) The tie rod swings out of the way to give plenty of room. BUT,I've got the cab removed from mine. not sure that would work with the cab on. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment
Str8_69 Posted April 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2010 Thanks for the tips fellas, turned out to be fairly easy, cross tie and cross member have to come out. While we had it up on stands, changed gear oil in the trans and rear end, what a difference that made.. amazing! Everything is so much smoother now. I also had found a quart of PENNZOIL under the seat and just about had a heart attack at the thought of that shit being in the engine!! :angry: Changed it out with some Castrol GTX and 1/2 bottle of Lucas oil treatment (awesome stuff) and the engine is actually quieter and smoother running.... :D I had only been putting off the oil change because of the pan gasket. Oh yeah, pics cuz it did happen.. And engine SO clean inside.. Quote Link to comment
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