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Distributor/Timing question...


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On my Acura I have a vacuum advance distributor which allows for timing adjustment at the distributor (the Legend only allowed for this for two years then it all became computer controlled).

 

Stock my car is supposed to be at 23*BTDC +/- 2*...

 

I found out after a CA smog check that it was way retarded at 12*...this caused an automatic fail. Dammit.

 

So I went to advance it and found that even with the dizzy all the way advanced, I can only get to 15* BTDC. Double dammit.

 

The timing belt is spot on and has been on the car for about 90,000 miles anyhow...I have passed other smog checks in the past so I know it was good before...

 

So any ideas here? Think my distributor itself is bad? It's a $200 part even for an aftermarket rebuilt...

 

The car runs excellent and so I wouldn't say that the timing belt was installed incorrectly or jumped a tooth (a BIG no no on Honda engines anyways)....

 

Sorry if these are noob questions or there is a simple answer...I'm kinda light in the ignition knowledge department...thanks though!

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Lol...um...not exactly the answer I was looking for or even a viable option at this point in time...

 

Besides my 521 is Datsun enough for me at the moment :cool:

 

This is my semi-daily driver (I have 94 Legend right now that's doing the major commuting)...

 

This 87 has been in my family since '92, I've had it since 03, and I've put a lot of sweat into her. Cliff not an option haha...

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There are three types of advance.

 

There's the static advance which is adjusted by turning the dizzy while idling and using a timing light. Once set it does not change and is added to the other two which are variable.

 

Then there's the vacuum advance which changes with the load on the motor. The more you step on the gas the less vacuum and the less advance. Let up on the gas and vacuum rises and so does the advance.

 

Last is the mechanical advance which it totally dependent on RPMs. Advance rises in relation to increasing engine speed. Mechanical advance maxes out at 2,500- 3,000 RPMs.

 

23 degrees does not sound like a static advance to me. Sounds more like static AND vacuum combined at low RPMs. I would remove the distributor cap and remove the hose to the dizzy vacuum advance and suck on it. Watch, the rotor should turn and hold position until you release it. If the rotor does not move, the vacuum hose or dizzy canister diaphragm may have a leak in it. The linkage inside may also be stuck or seized and won't move.

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