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Oh God don't tempt me, I live in southern Indiana.

 

And I cannot do a project without a fuckup or three... It's a requirement.

 

if you were closer i would seriously consider it. i've wanted a classic mini forever! but theres no way im driving to indiana.

Edited by N0RCALDIME
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if you were closer i would seriously consider it. i've wanted a classic mini forever! but theres no way im driving to indiana.

 

Really the best way to do it is to find a titled rust bucket and buy it for cheaps. Then you can get a non-titled "doner" car. Swap shells and everything since all the VIN's just rivet on and DMV is ok with it since they do not see a difference between MkI-V mini's. Mine's in ok condition and since it's one of the few Mk. I's still titled as a Mk. I it's worth way more. If you want a Mk. III+ that's titled as a Mk. I, it's way cheaper. I know after my twin cam project the Mini's getting a Honda motor. The stock mini already puts everything and its brother to shame on the auto-x track.

 

If you ever need a hand tracking stuff or getting into it, lemmie know. Maybe you can help me find a 510 shell...

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Really similar, I'd say within 1-2% of the coupe. It's same wheelbase (few inches more overhang in the rear) with all same suspension, and probably within 30-40lbs of each other. My old man has a full auto-x prepared mini and both our cars have the same setup, hi-lows, koni's up front, spax in back, minilite drums and we can come within half a second of each other, I'd say it's all depending on tires, since mine are yoko's and his are falkens. But to be honest I'd rather have the wagon for DD, it's got a usable cargo area, the seats fold 100% flat (kiss my ass chrysler stow-and-go seating) and even with a radical motor, it gets 30mpg if I'm nice to it.

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To be honest your best bet is to find a titled shell or something similar and just build it up. Austin and BMC put a bunch of shitty parts in them over the years so it's really best to pick and chose. But alas you'll want:

 

Mk. I Shell (lightest, Mk. III+ are about 200lbs heavier and have roll up windows) You'll get a non-cooper S shell for 1/3 the cost of a cooper S Shell with the only difference being the cooper S is drilled for the right hand tank.

Mk. III non hydro (rubber cone) subframes. Stiffer and stronger, bolt right in.

Mk. II Steering Rack.

 

If you want to do a Honda engine swap, you can get a shell which has the nose cut off since you'll have to do it anyways. These are cheaper since they're not "pristine" shells.

If you want to keep the ol' A series (you masochistic bastard you) you'll want the "A+" 1275 engine and gearbox.

 

Any questions?

If you work hard and look a complete swapped Honda powered Mini can be had very nicely for roundabouts 10 grand (give or take depending on how innovative and/or frisky you're feeling)

And you'll have a 180hp, 1200lb death trap. :)

 

And the only differences between the RHD and LHD cars is the steering rack (why you have to get a mk II) and just a few of the pedal parts. Every other part is exactly the same, including the shell. The holes and everything are already drilled and tapped, so swapping between the two is cake.

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