KA24E vs. L/Z series motors.

[datzenmike]

Well I collected a KA motor minus the head last week. Not that I will use it, shrug I don't know, but more for taking apart and learning something about them. Actually I have ALL the intake and efi from this motor, the head was sold. It sat out all winter with hood open head off so a bit rusty but good enough for what I want. Car was a 240sx that had an accident, so good motor that was running.

 

 

KA blocks are about 100 lb more than an L20B. Here's why. Note the fan shape and webbing at back of block that bolts to the tranny. The rear oil seal has it's own bolt on holder.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock001Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

 

Note that the KA has the mounting ring that the starter sits against and uses through bolts into the tranny. Extra weight again but proves without a doubt that a KA starter will never work on an L or a Z series motor.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock003Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

 

Single row timing chain and failure prone chain guides. These guides are in fair shape. Slack side guide pivots from bottom and becomes the tensioner 'shoe' at top of block.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock004Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

 

Tensioner:

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock005Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

 

Timing cover for the KA. Looks like the water pump is different and will also never fit the L or Z motors.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock007Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

 

Oil pan. How I hate to see RTV used like a redneck Chevy owner! Front is to the right. Nice baffles for the sump. The front isn't straight across like the L and Z series. The notch at the front bottom is where the oil pump fits on the timing cover.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock009Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

 

Now I see why the RTV and the newness of the chain guides. Found half the old guide still in the sump. Pan must have been off for something else.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock008Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

 

Bottom end slightly rust covered but OK. Here you can see the KA girdle running along both sides of the crank just inside the block and pan sides. Even more weight, but lots of added strength and rigidity.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock010Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

 

Here is the crankshaft girdle removed.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock017Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

 

...and with the crank sitting in it. Damn snug fit for the throws.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock016Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock013Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

 

The oil feed holes are nicely chamfered. L-16 rod bearings will fit this crank and that's about it.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/KA24Eblock015Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

Harvested the pistons and rods in good shape. Block bores were rusty but cleaned up enough to get them out.

[72240z]

You know whats weird. I have stripped 3 ka24de's 2 were supposedly never really touched, taken out for swaps and ALL have rtv sealed oil pans. I wonder if that was just Nissan recipe for success.

 

I personally think the KA's weight different is MORE then worth it but having scrapped some, jesus are they heavy sobs, esp for I4's.