I've got some issues

[jodaddy]

81 720 with the z22. I'm just trying to save this one from the scrap heap. Carb is shooting gas out of the top when I work the throttle. It seems like it is not getting enough air. Plenty of gas. If I want to adjust idle air which plug needs to be removed. It looks like I have 2. Help me please! thanks joe

[Jayden71]

:(NO PICS:(

Dude,

Where are the PICS!!!!!!!

[Phlebmaster]

Welcome to Ratsun....and Yeah, we want pics. :D

 

We would like to see what screws you are talking about.

[datzenmike]

Fill out your signature with a general location. The California carbs are different that the rest.

 

Gas squirts out the top of the carb, or you can see gas squirting down into the carb when you look in the top?????? The first is a problem the other isn't.

 

Also try to post a picture of the carb with engine warmed up or running. Usually there are no plugs to remove to adjust the idle mixture but again a California carb may be factory sealed to prevent tampering.

[jodaddy]

My pics are too big to attach and at present I am not computer literate enough to shrink them. 48 state and canada model with vacuum secondary. The idle air is factory sealed. I pulled the carb off today . The throttle plate is open to spec on the fast idle. I am mainly wondering what would make the atomized fuel go up in stead of down. Incorrectly adjusted valves maybe? It will not run if the choke plate is closed. I have to manually hold the choke plate open and mash the go pedal to get it to start. I picked this rig up for $100 dollars not running. So at least I am heading in the right direction. I really don't have a lot to lose at this point. Also the head gasket was replaced by the previous owner. He couldn't get it to run after and that is where I picked it up.

Edited April 2, 2009 by jodaddy

[jodaddy]

I did a bout five minutes of hard thinking and this is what I came up with. The fuel shoots up because its conected to the exhaust manifold through some tube. step on the gas and maybe exhaust presure over comes the intake pressure because of a restiction in the exhaust. Sound like bs? maybe i'll unplug from the cat back tomorrow after I install the carb and try it out. One different question to add. should the vacuum advance bellows hold vacuum indefinitely? thanks again, Joe

[datzenmike]

I see that the PO had the head off and now it doesn't run right. Kind of narrows it down don't it????

 

First check that the valve lash is set properly. While valve cover is off check the cam timing. I'll post more info on what to do and a picture when I get home.

 

Now check that the plug wires go to the right plugs. Firing order is 1342 for intake and exhaust. the tower is marked with the numbers. I1 (intake one) E1 (exhaust one) and so on. Set the timing 3-5 degrees BTDC.

Edited April 2, 2009 by datzenmike

[jodaddy]

valve cover is off and valves are adjusted. to find tdc I pulled plugs and rotated the engine until I felt air at the #1 plug hole. lined up the timing mark on the pulley. pulled the valve cover. camshaft lobe was pointing straight down. so I adjusted the valves cold to spec. anything else I am missing. or could have done wrong. Thanks, Joe

[jodaddy]

Side note:When I first got this truck, In order to get it to run I had to re wire the spark plug tower since the dizzy and the oilpump didn't line up. I put thengine at tdc and installed the dizzy. Where the rotor landed I put #1 Intake plug wire and respectively wired the rest. Well now I'm off to make a carb gasket. My local parts store didn't even have the gasket listed in any of their computers or books, The fun keeps adding up. thanks again , joe

Edited April 3, 2009 by jodaddy

[datzenmike]

Set the motor to TDC on #1 by rotating the motor clockwise until the notch in the rear pulley lines up with the 0 (zero) on the timing scale. If you over shoot the mark back the motor up well before TDC and try again. Clockwise up to and stop on TDC. Do this as many times as you have to, to get it right. Setting TDC this way will keep the tension side of the chain tight and give a better indication of how much the cam timing is off. (if it is)

 

With valve cover off, look through the top hole in the cam sprocket. On the very back of the sprocket there will be a small V or U notch cut into it. If you look back just behind it there is a very small vertical casting mark between the two rocker arm towers.

 

 

Here's a better picture of the casting line with a screwdriver pointing to it.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/720%20stuff/720stuff041Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

Here is the view through the top hole in the cam sprocket showing the U shaped notch. It's a bit blurry. Behind it is the extremely small vertical casting mark.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/720%20stuff/720stuff036Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

If the cam has been timed properly the U shaped notch will be under, or just to the right of the casting mark, like in the above picture. If it isn't like the picture the sprocket can be moved into adjustment. Check yours carefully and get back. Do NOT try to remove the sprocket without properly securing the timing chain or the chain tensioner WILL fall out and you will have to remove the timing cover to fix and a simple job will take all day. For now just check.

[jodaddy]

When tdc comes up the #3 mark on the camshaft sprocket is a little to the right of the oblong groove in the retainer. I don't know if that helps.

[jodaddy]

that notch in the back side of the camshaft sprocket is about 8 minutes past midnight or maybe 2 or 3 teeth past the casting. whichever makes more sense

[datzenmike]

Then the cam would appear to be severely advanced. That's good!!!! Because it can be fixed. I have to spend time with Mrs. datzen so I'll post some info on how to block the chain and remove the sprocket and adjust it later. Unless another member want's to take a shot at it.

[jodaddy]

so I made the block of wood for timing chain removal and installed it but it didn't sink into the timing cover very much. does the block need to have a full taper from end to end? 1 1/2 at the top to 1" at the bottom. 10" long. Sound good? should I pry the camshaft sprocket off with a couple of screwdrivers or is this a big no no. thanks, Joe

[jodaddy]

She runs...... and fairly well. Thanks to all who helped, I really appreciate it. joe