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Project "Izzo"


izzo

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get some hole punches and a razor and your all set!

 

got the razor,

 

 

i tried making a gasket for the emissions block off plate on the l20 intake mani.

 

there were no rips or anything in it and it and it sucked an assload of air in. made that bitch backfire pretty good

 

theres still an air leak tho :

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got two new tires on the front today

 

 

was down at schwab and talked to one of the techs for a bit about the a-arms on these

 

 

i read on here that when you drop these down so far you have to adjust the camber. guy said thats not true and not recommended by nissan (but what is!!)

 

anyways, he showed me the front end a little bit and with just 1 extra washer added to all 4 bolts along with the factory washer, the camber is off to much. its the toe that has to be adjusted.

 

so if anyone else has this problem, dont put shims in there spend 25 dollars at les schwab and get the toe adjusted. (steering just tries to steer itself, youll know if it happens to you, hit a grove and that shit will take off in another direction)

 

 

Did you feel the smoke blowing in your ass as he told you this?

 

I have been doing alignments for nearly 20 years(15 for schwab) and his camber theory just isnt right. Adding washer(shims) on these trucks makes the camber way worse. On our trucks, you have to remove shims to get the camber to straighten out after lowering them. Problem is that there are no more shims to remove, control arm shaft moves out and contacts frame and you cant go any further.

This control arm shim design is on the 520, 521, 620, and 720. When nissan built the d21 in 87 they moved the control arm shaft to the outside of the frame tower. Now adding shims helps the negative camber on the d21.

 

As far a nissan not recommending shims to be installed? Then why did they come with shims from the factory and why are there alignment specs for camber in the factory service manual?

 

Do you feel the smoke yet?

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well everything i read said to adjust them in or out to get them right. then he said that so got me to wondering. it doesnt surprise me if he is wrong, they have told me half assed shit before, and couldnt figure out how to take apart a split rim for a go-kart...

 

 

When i first lowered it, it steered like shit! any sort of groove in the road and it was taking off, or if i was on a slant it would just go to the bottom side of it. after i adjusted the camber it helped a bit.

 

 

I have an appointment at 11 to get the toe adjusted on it.

 

 

 

Just to get an idea of seaside and or the coast...

 

Rotors turned at les schwab, 32.50 each

some mechanic place up in astoria, 70 dollars each

napa auto parts does not have a machine shop here

car dealer is about 70 dollars total

 

 

go to longview, 12 dollars to turn a rotor...

 

For fucks sake, 70 dollars out the door for two new front rotors at the local napa. why not just buy new ones every time they need turned for that price?

 

I could goto longview, and get them turned for cheaper then here. even with adding in gas cost to get there and back.

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well everything i read said to adjust them in or out to get them right. then he said that so got me to wondering. it doesnt surprise me if he is wrong, they have told me half assed shit before, and couldnt figure out how to take apart a split rim for a go-kart...

 

 

When i first lowered it, it steered like shit! any sort of groove in the road and it was taking off, or if i was on a slant it would just go to the bottom side of it. after i adjusted the camber it helped a bit.

 

 

I have an appointment at 11 to get the toe adjusted on it.

 

 

 

Just to get an idea of seaside and or the coast...

 

Rotors turned at les schwab, 32.50 each

some mechanic place up in astoria, 70 dollars each

napa auto parts does not have a machine shop here

car dealer is about 70 dollars total

 

 

go to longview, 12 dollars to turn a rotor...

 

For fucks sake, 70 dollars out the door for two new front rotors at the local napa. why not just buy new ones every time they need turned for that price?

 

I could goto longview, and get them turned for cheaper then here. even with adding in gas cost to get there and back.

 

 

haha i turn my own rotors : )

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Did you feel the smoke blowing in your ass as he told you this?

 

I have been doing alignments for nearly 20 years(15 for schwab) and his camber theory just isnt right. Adding washer(shims) on these trucks makes the camber way worse. On our trucks, you have to remove shims to get the camber to straighten out after lowering them. Problem is that there are no more shims to remove, control arm shaft moves out and contacts frame and you cant go any further.

This control arm shim design is on the 520, 521, 620, and 720. When nissan built the d21 in 87 they moved the control arm shaft to the outside of the frame tower. Now adding shims helps the negative camber on the d21.

 

As far a nissan not recommending shims to be installed? Then why did they come with shims from the factory and why are there alignment specs for camber in the factory service manual?

 

Do you feel the smoke yet?

 

I put the camber back to stock position thursday. And today i brought the truck in for the toe adjustment.

 

He hooked up the 4 deals to each of the rims. Camber was good, caster was good but the toe was a little over an inch out. all re-alligned and set to go :D

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Truck looked about like this at 11am

IMG_0684.jpg

 

At 5pm this is the afterwards...

 

 

06-10-09_1605.jpg

06-10-09_1606.jpg

06-10-09_1608.jpg

 

 

 

Started at 11Am

 

first on was some aircraft remover/spray thinner stuff. i let that sit for a few, then scraped it with a razor blade. i wasnt worried about the chrome, its good thick stuff and even when i pressed it didnt scratch it or gouge it.

 

 

even after that there was still some junk on there. i sprayed it with brake cleaner and used a terry cloth. that got all the smeared junk up. after that there was just some black primer stuff i used the razor again and it came off.

 

 

First two tires took the longest to figure out what process worked best. second set was cake and only took half hour or so

 

 

either way, let that stripper stuff stay on there longer. longer it sets the easier it is

 

 

took the fan shroud off my truck yesterday

 

06-09-09_1751.jpg

06-09-09_1750.jpg

 

 

 

also removed fan shroud..

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Its been a long time since that set of wheels were chrome like that.

 

That set was on my 620 when i bought it 4.5 years ago. I only drove(got towed) about 2 miles on them to get the truck home. Took them off before the truck left my driveway again.

Gave them to my brother in law(painted centers black), somehow ended up getting them back.

Sold them cheap to James,(LeDevil i think) in vancouver.

James sold them to Aaron(phlebmaster). Painted them blue.

Now they are yours, and all the paint is gone.

 

They look a lot better without the paint too.

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ok

 

 

here are some shifters,

 

top one is stock shifter from whatever the dogleg came from (200sx?)

Second one i bought from kiz (good deal too btw, 2 dolla!) came out of his 510

and the third i bought before buying kiz's, for 10 dollars at the swap meet in canby.

 

i asked the guy i bought the third from if it would fit in the dogleg and he said no, the bottom piece is to long and i need to cut and weld etc.

 

 

haha, he was wrong. its the same size. Even width, so it fit right down in the dogleg and theres no slop.

 

shifteranddrumbrakes001.jpg

 

 

The Z shifter is shorter then the rest. And its backwards, i put it in backwards on purpose.

 

heres neutral

shifteranddrumbrakes002.jpg

 

and in the top side of the gears

shifteranddrumbrakes003.jpg

 

and bottom side

shifteranddrumbrakes004.jpg

 

 

Fits in there nice n tight, and feels like a short shifter. tucks away nice in 5th gear this way, mostly out of the way. its close to my side also do i dont have to really move to shift. Sounds lazy, but feels good when your out slamming thru gears on a back road!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

put in a voltmeter, looked like a good idea until i got it all installed. in the worst spot ever and cant see it while driving unless i look around my giant steering wheel :

 

 

oh well, the mount holes were already there so i didnt have to make new ones in the dash. so itll get moved once i get rolling on the center console

 

Picked up some new seats, fender, door, coil from a 90s hardbody, washer reservoir, windshield wiper motor (freebie :D )

 

got a buncha bolts too, free of course..

 

06-30-09_1731.jpg

 

07-05-09_1847.jpg

07-05-09_1848.jpg

07-05-09_1849.jpg

 

before

07-06-09_1442.jpg

 

coil

07-06-09_1443.jpg

 

after

07-06-09_1454.jpg

07-06-09_1502.jpg

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whats the reason for the Hardbody coil? is it like and upgrade? Cuz i think i might want to do that..

 

Yeah, its better than stock i believe. I havent taken it for a drive, but it seemed to be a little more responsive throttle.

 

 

seen that idea on yello620s truck, said it was a decent improvement.

 

not sure the year i got that out of, but any hardbody should work. yello620s looked a little different, so i cant remember what year his was out of

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Mine came from an 90 Infinity M30. I originally installed it because i broke the positive stud terminal off of my EI coil. Wanted the truck the next day, so i tried that coil. Started better and smoothed out the weber bog, cant even remember what rpm the bog was anymore. No reason to go back now, so i made a wiring sub-harness that plugs into the stock engine bay harness and soldered all the connections.

I got a wiring pigtail that plugs into that coil out of an 87 or 88 200sx i think. The wire colors even matched my 620 wires.

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thanks jason

 

i couldnt remember what you pulled that off of. I put a common connector on my wires so i can swap them out easily if i find something better. ill take it for a spin tomorrow, started right up for me too. ill test out cold start tomorrow

 

Btw Jason, you ready to get that 720 out of your yard :lol:

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replaced the fender and door on my truck. had to pull the window,lock,rubber,interior panel, and mirror from my original door and put it on the shell i got from lkq

 

 

wish my truck was all original color. sure would look nice, seeing this is making me want to shoot some paint on it with a gun, even if it aint super nice..

 

 

07-10-09_1646.jpg

 

old door

07-10-09_1647.jpg

Edited by h2theizzo
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nice work that 720s really comeing around :D

 

thanks man :D

 

 

Heres some more stuff done, i was lazy and didnt want to get a clamp out, so i used a pair of pliers on the bracket, then drilled it. Dont do that, trust me. If it catches or skips youll end up like this

 

07-11-09_1608.jpg

07-11-09_1609.jpg

 

 

 

I posted something in the wanted section, NEED SEATS... I really needed some seats :lol:

 

I replaced the bench with seats out of a 1983 or 84 honda accord. They lined up perfectly in the stock spots for the bolts on the seat, in front. The rears came up short. So i just bought some L brackets and cut them down, re-drilled holes where i needed them. So i used all the factory bolt holes putting these seats in. Used lock washers on all the bolts i put in, and some lock tight from the seat to the brackets i made.

 

 

They fit in there nice, they slide all the way back, and forward like they should. comfy too, removed the head rests so the seat would lean back a little more. just need some seat covers so they match better.

 

 

 

07-11-09_1756.jpg

07-11-09_1757.jpg

07-11-09_1758.jpg

07-11-09_1759.jpg

07-11-09_1800.jpg

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How did you manage to drive in that seat from seaside to canby. That had to hurt.

 

I know i would have been in severe pain with my back.

 

yeah,

 

canby was nothing. i drove it like that from puyallup to here, and from seaside to portland a few days a week for a few months, then to kennewick and back. My back does hurt.

 

I did stuff a pillow in there to keep my rear from hitting the floor. Sooo much better now. Cant wait to hit the road. wish i had a center console already for an arm rest tho

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