Stupid_fast

@xtrememotorworks, doesn't your 1200 have a A14 motor? Most guys in the R1 thread are running L series or KA motors. I don't think anybody has done it on a A14 before. If you get a good price on an L series manifold, I'm sure many people would be interested in buying them domestic. I've been wanting to buy the manifold from bogg bros for a while.

Hey do you still have those shift levers? I would like one. Are they both the same? They look like 620 5-speed ones?

On my L20b, the two outer and center exhaust mounts are studs, everything else uses bolts. I'm pretty sure this is how its hooked up from the factory. If you use studs on the inner exhaust mounts it may be impossible to get the nuts in there, as its a very tight fit with a header.

Anyone got the spec on those wheels ? ? So much want.

I do not know. There should be some options around. :thumbup: Sorry, but the owner is in quite good health I don't think he needs a kidney.

Im in oakland so I dunno. San Rafael isnt that far from Akiba ... looks like it would take about as much time as it takes me to get across the city from the bay bridge. (Without disturbing the local bacon)

We have a south bay (santa clara) meet, we have a west bay San Francisco meet... Why not make a north bay meet thread ?!

Probably 100-110 to the crank. Weber claim you can't get much more than 120 from a 2 liter 4 cylinder with a 32/36.

@Broofurd, these are three-piece rims.

@Banzai510, Yes I remember that long time ago when you told me about all this. I believed I had all the correct 510 stuff. @wayno, I think I can reason what happened. I guess when I initially installed it I adjusted the slave too tight and with the long sleeve, so when I pushed the clutch to the floor it started putting strain on those teeth, and over time bent them. Then I started having issues where it would not fully disengage, so I adjusted the slave more which bent the cover more, then adjusted the master which bent it even more... :crying: Oh well, doing it right this time. Thanks everybody for helping me figure this out.

I don't mean to be confusing, my bad. I suck at english. The setup is a full 200mm roadster setup except the bearing sleeve is incorrect which I did not know at the time of installation. Yes, that chart is for 225mm applications. There is another chart on the webpage I got that from for 200mm applications stating the correct part number for a 200mm PL510 bearing sleeve. I've ordered from NIssanpartszone.com the following; 30210-20111 CLUTCH COVER (Roadster part no.) 30501-N1601 SLEEVE BEARING Replaced by: 30501-N1604 (short sleeve for 200mm / PL510) 32202-09500 BEARING PILOT (for L series, ect) It was unnecessary to replace the flywheel disc, and exedy clutch disc as they are both very new. I also have a new throw out bearing. I forget which brand, but its japanese. So the slave needs a spring? Makes more sense now. I will buy a spring to fit onto it. My 280zx never had a return spring on it, the ZX turbo did not either. maybe the problem with my clutch throw was that it never properly retracted into the slave cyl because no return spring ?

@datzenmike, You posted this on another thread that was linked in the previous page... Since it measures 41.4mm tall right now (look at pic above to see material ground off...) I'm guessing it was a 42.5mm sleeve instead of the correct 38.5mm(stock 510/roadster) one. you can see the part number on the pressure plate, 30210-20111. Flywheel is the right size for the clutch disc, so yes everything is as I said.

@Sealik, I got it from http://www.datsunparts.com with the disc, pressure plate, and bearing. It was definitely the correct one. THere is a bit of material cut off the sleeve, I'm pretty sure its the 225mm clutch 42.5mm sleeve. But I still don't get how this happened if the bearing was in correctly?

This is what Alex is like at the meets.

@len, I may have put it in dry but I know you need to pack grease in there at installation.. its possible I did it wrong. I ordered the correct T/O sleeve with the clutch, so everything should be correct. The pedal does have play at the top, I made sure that there was. There is no play at the slave cylinder adjustment.

When I initially installed the slave cyl rod I believe It was just barely putting pressure on the fork. I really don't think it was loose. I'm ordering a new clutch, I'll see if I can do it right this time. t/o sleeve measured 41mm tall. Yup... RIP OEM roadster clutch Wow, they sell roadster clutch cover for only $110 now. Not bad.

No, the bearing was properly facing the clutch plate. If the bearing was installed correctly, what caused the clutch teeth to shatter and the bearing to seize ? :confused:

Three clutch teeth are shattered. The bearing is completely siezed. :crying: Ah well, I was able to squeeze my 510 into the garage, everything is nice and organized now.

I found the cause of the sqeal. I had installed the throwout bearing backwards.

Huh I'm pretty sure I put grease on the end of the trans shaft but I'm not sure it was a while ago. Squeal happens worse when I disengage the clutch, but still makes noise when its engaged. I hope I didn't ruin the pilot bushing. Luckily I have a new one that came with the roadster clutch if I need it. Not as much a horrid squeal as a bearing crunchy growly squeal. What kind of oil does it need? those just need some heavy grease right? from here: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/34889-bad-pilot-bushinghelp/ I'll replace it while i'm in there. The 510 does not have a return spring. I can't tell you how many times I've adjusted that damn thing.

Motor was given to me with my car as rebuilt and I was the first one to run it 7000 miles ago, I'd hope the pilot bushing was new. Flywheel clutch pp ect all 7000 miles. already have a new timken t/o bearing to replace the trashed one. @ggzilla, Yeah usually it does not take too long to swap gearbox but if I don't have a part I'll have to wait for it to arrive. I think I can get it done in about 5 hours tomorrow and still have time to swap the diff.

Posting for my friend Jamiko, he is currently located in Virginia and these are at his relatives house in Berkeley, CA Here is what he said about them; They are 15x6 1/2 +17 offset 4x114.3 Three piece JDM work Ewings. All four center caps are included one of them is missing the logo for the center cap. All the curb rash was cut out by hand then the rings were polished by. They are not perfect but, they are pretty damn nice. I asking $1500 OBO. Send me a pm and we'll work something out.

Yeah I got a heap of parts with the car, the motor was a truck L20b, some random parts I just grabbed stuff that looked important... There where 2 L16's in the garage I got the parts from so I thought the T/O sleeve was right. I have the adjustable 510 slave and fork. Adjustment at master and slave still resulted in engagement really low on the pedal. Whatev, I'm going to pull the motor out tomorrow and figure this out. There is a horrid squeal coming from the t/o bearing now and bearing growl in the transmission has been getting worse so I have not been driving it for the past month. I just hate disassembling this car while my ZX is in pieces still. Thanks guys for the help and info, I'll report back when I have everything torn down.

Its in the car right now, that's the problem.

Awesome ! Just what I needed. It looks like I need a 30501-N1601 which is NLA replaced by 30501-N1604. But from the pictures it looks like thats the sleeve I already have ?