jetattblue

Wayno, thank you! I really appreciate the pictures and advice. Mine is a '63, too. So, these photos are super helpful!

Does anyone have any pictures of their floor pans? I am particularly interested in the areas including the bolts that mount to the truck's frame. The areas around these bolts are almost entirely rusted away in my truck, and I am trying to get my arms around how to repair them with new metal. I'm wondering if you could cut those areas away from a newer Datsun or Nissan truck and graft them in versus trying to fabricate those areas from scratch. Any thoughts on that? I've never done this before, but I thought it would be a good idea to tackle that specific repair before removing the cab from the frame to repair the frame. My idea is to remove one bolt and rusted area at a time and repair that before moving to the next. Once these 4 areas are repaired, I can lift the cab off of the frame. This way--in my mind--I could make sure that it all lines up straight again. I am worried that if I remove the cab and repair those areas while it is off of the frame, I have a greater chance of missing a measurement and end up with a cab that sits a little off. I don't want my truck cab pointing to one side while I'm driving straight!

What do you recommend? I'm about to start work on my 320's frame and would be really interested in your thoughts.

Unfortunately, I don't have that pulley. Sorry. I have an engine belt pulley, but not the generator pulley.

The links worked. Let me look and see if I have that part.

Can you repost the picture? I can't see it but may have one; I just want to make sure that I'm thinking about the right thing.

Steve, that's excellent information as usual! What does the .050" of added lift do? I'd be interested in knowing if that helps out somehow. I really don't know anything about different grinds or shapes on the cam shaft. My cam shaft is entirely disconnected, but I was not sure if it just slides out or if it requires significant force. It feels pretty tight in there to me, and I certainly don't want to break anything.

Thank you for the info! I've got everything out except the tappets and camshaft. I'm going to try them both again tonight and see if I can get them all out.

Here's a quick update and question for you all. First, the cylinder head has been sent to a machine shop. They found no issues with magnaflux. But, the valve seats were pitted, so the shop is going to rectify them. Second, I am SO close to having the engine taken down to the block. I am doing this so that I can send it to the machine shop, too. The tappets and cam shaft are the only things remaining in the block. Does anyone have any advice on removing the cam shaft? I keep reading to pull it out and turn as you go, but I cannot figure out how to grab it to pull it out. Any helpful hints? I have the same issue with the tappets; I want to grab them, but I don't want to mar them in the process. I also hope to have some pictures to update here very soon.

Dude! Your truck is looking fantastic. I love the paint color. Justin

Quick question about rocker assemblies. As part of my engine tear down, I removed the rocker assembly last night and started cleaning it up. When I removed the pedestals and rockers from the shaft, I noticed that the rocker shaft was badly scored in many places. I'm going to inspect the rocker bushings today and see what kind of condition they are in. Assuming that I need to replace some of these parts: is there a replacement for the rocker shaft - perhaps one from an MGB? Also, where should I get the bushings for the rockers? Thank you.

Thank you for the info on the transmission mounts. That's a fantastic idea! The rubber in my mounts is pretty much gone, so this is a fantastic solution.

That looks fantastic! Good job. How did you get the transmission to connect to those circular mounts? The rubber in my original mounts is terrible, so I'd love to have a solution for that.

Looks great! I like the headlights.

No problem at all. I think any 320 discussion is helpful!