Gery

In spite of the useful pictures, my dash plate seems unwilling to be removed.  3 upper screws, a lower screw (that also held the flasher relay), ......anything else?  I even sprayed lubricant around the edges of the panel.

if it remains stuck, would removing the whole dah make sense?

The pictures above are REALLY helpful!  Thank you 2edeye.

That’s what I was thinking but I always like to check with the expert(s).

A line that drops down to the bottom of the tank (I assume it is the outgoing fuel line) has an expanded cylindrical section at the bottom end.  What is that? A filter?  Won’t it get fouled if I try to coat the tank?  

I don’t think that that is a vented cap.  My original cap looked like that and was not.  The venting,I believe, is through the evaporation canister.  My canister was removed by a previous owner.  I tried the return hose idea, but it didn’t work because the system was now closed...so no breathing.  This is a problem for various reasons including adding stress to the fuel pump, hoses, etc.

I dealt, inelegantly, with the breathing problem by drilling a 1/8” hole near the center of the cap. ( I put a small band-aid over the hole with the cotton part on the hole itself....to ensure nothing easily goes in).  Many full tanks later, still no difficulties and don’t seem to have spilled a drop.  

Other readers— I have have a question too, though.  When I had ny tank off, I was going to redcoat it.  One of the lines (I assume it was the fuel out line) extended to the bottom of the tank and had a cylindrical expansion on the end.  My old British motorcycles have a copper mesh filter screen at the outlet .  Realizing that the coating would foul this end piece — and needing to get the truck back on the road, I just skipped the internal coating.  Question is:  what is that enlarged cylindrical part?  A filter?    Easily removable?  Necessary?

The problem persisted with the new switch....

I then stepped things up and used a meter to check all the wiring.  

Turns out that the relay was frozen in on position.  Replaced the relay and problem solved.

Thanks everyone.  🙂

If “dash cap” = “dash overlay”, I have one on my truck.  A PO installed it and it looks much better than a deteriorated naked dash.  That being said, I have toyed with the idea of using a subtle carbon fiber wrap on it..  They are made of ABS plastic (like the center console but thinner) and eventually will crack.  

One problem I’ve noticed is that , at least the one on my truck, prevents the instrument cluster from being easily opened.  I need to get back there and I suspect when I do, the overlay may be become damaged.  

Best price I’ve seen is $100 plus $40 shipping on eBay .

Foresee any real difficulties?  I see universal kits.  

I’m playing with the idea of converting my under dash ebrake to a between the seats tunnel mount.  Every manual trans car i’ve had, has had a tunnel mount ebrake, and I miss it.  I haven’t found any references to such a project.  (Rear drums)

Thoughts?

Desirable? To me, yes. They really help with airflow on hot days.  

I found that 620 sliders are hard to find....and the  ones (not tha same as the standard cab, are even more rare.  

That being said, i simply send a kc rear window seal with my kc slider.  

Before installing, however, I disassembled the slider, cleaned everything, and replaced the old felts.  No rattles.

These old sliders do seem a favored point of entry for break-in, so making a couple of blocking rods is a good idea.

I sent off for a new switch.

Very helpful.  Turns out a fuse had blown which explains the lack of reverse lights when the switch was bypassed.

Your photo and explanation help me better understand the problem.  

Am I right in thinking that the pin is dropping into the notch (and thus, not extending to break continuity)?

if so, what might cause that situation?

The plunger moves relatively freely and has consistent spring tension pushing it outward.  There is minor scraping when moving, but nothing that seems restrictive to movement.

Perhaps my next step thould be to remove the switch, insert a thin rod into the switch hole, and the feel what happens as the truck is shifter in and out of reverse? (Ignition off, of course)

That might add some info, but won’t give me reverse lights....

Better ideas?

No other switches present.  I pulled the switch to check function.

Plunger extended = no continuity

Plunger depressed = continuity 

while under, I tried directly connecting the truck’s reverse wired together (removing the switch from the circuit).  No reverse lights.

Because the truck was an automatic, there are two wires that were attached to the old internal neutral switch.  These two wires are now connected together.  If not connected together, the truck won’t turn over.

i ended up just disconnecting the switch so there would be CONTANTLY ON” no reverse lights.

So what seems to be occurring is: when the switch is in place ... the plunger remains depressed regardless of gear selection, or even neutral.  If so, that is problem #1

Problem #2 then would be why wouldn’t the reverse lights just stay on if the switch is bypassed?

is there a lost ground connection with the switch out?  Or?

i wish this was as simple as having the wrong type of switch installed.

ideas?

Thank you.

After switching an automatic to a 5 speed, my reverse lights are always on.  From this thread, I’d assume that I need to replace the switch.    If so, for what specifically am I searching?  Or could the leads just be reversed.?  (‘78 620)

can I scavenge the switch from the automatic to use with the 280z 5 speed?

Any options for adding intermittent wiper option?  I’ve considered adding a momentary switch to get a single swipe but this seems awkward.  (‘78 620)

Are these still avail?

As always, very. Valuable information.  

Are these considered good transmissions in terms of 

-street/hwy driving

-repairability

?

Help.

Which manual transmission(s) will fit a ‘78 620 kc (L20b)? If more than one, which is best for regular driving?  

F4W71B?

F5W71B?

 Thanks 

I’m going out there and do this as soon as the sun comes up. Thanks as always.

I get mine throoooo State Farm without any problems.   

Jumping on this thread with a choke adjustment question:

my L20b (automatic) with a Weber starts right up and the fast idle keeps it going.  But, when the fast idle cuts out due to my touching the gas pedal, rhe truck’s idle drops and almost almost stalls. Then after a few minutes more warming up while driving, it rises to a decent 900ish  (in gear).  I have a feeling that the choke is opening too soon.  Inspecting the choke when cold shows me that it is almost closed (as suggested in the literature). Would rotating it help this problem?as it is now , I almost drive it like a manual by slipping it into  neutral ,to keep the rpms up until it is sufficiently warm to avoid stalling.

BTW, fuel lines are clear, air filter is clean (though not oiled), valves appropriately adjusted, timing seems correct, battery is strong, etc

ideas..?

j

u 

What is the original turn radius for these?  I may already be there.

I’d like to improve the turning radius of my ‘78 620.  Besides cleaning and adjusting the stock box, anything practical to be done?

Thanks, Datzenmike!

You are a veritable wealth of knowledge.