Gery

I came across a 1980 200sx with a z20 and 5 speed transmission.  Could the entire power train replace the power train in a 620 kc (currently automatic)?  If so, how difficult a swap is it and what benefits (besides getting a 5 speed tranny, which I would prefer to an automatic) and losses would this involve.  

Also, could I ever hope to pass a California smog test?

Okay.... Do the sliding windows require a special gasket or do they fit into the regular rear window gasket?

Sorry...I didn’t see your response until now.  Thanks.

i’m looking For a 1978   620 kc

I would imagine that a class action lawsuit could be filed against CA based upon impedance of interstate commerce.  Putting smog equipment on a vehicle that wasn't originally equipped —especially a vintage vehicle— is onerous.  Requiring new residents to either buy a different car or else go through junkyard gymnastics isn’t reasonable.  At minimum, there should be  one of the following:

—incremental changes to later years in the cars that no longer require a smog test

—a reasonable pollution abatement fee for non compliant older vehicles

—a dollar limit to the expenses incurred in pursuit of  the vehicles YOM standard

—allowance for newer technology/equipment swapping that would allow DDs to be used on the roads.

The fee for non-compliance is really nothing different from what industry is allowed to do.  They can even buy carbon credits.

Bump....well, would rear windows from a 720 king cab fit in a 1978 620 king cab?  All I ever see lister are for years 1980 and on. I’ve seen earlier trucks with sliders, but information is isn’t forthcoming.  Lawrence makes a slider but they are not responsive about templates, dimensions, etc.

thanks

Whoa!  I just put in a Weber 32/36.  What a difference.  No srumbles, no hesitations, no roughness.  Good bye, Hitachi!

so, I suppose next is the head change and cam.  

So, does anybody know the kc truck rear window size changes? 

I got the correct cylinders.  They did have a different orientation than the common ones listed online.  They also were listed as proper for the car...so just case of multiple parts.  Thanks

Does anyone know what other years’ rear sliders will &it in a 1978 king cab 620?

A CH Lawrence kit has the (very close to) the right dimensions, but I can’t tell whether it has the correct radii and angles.

They are here in L.A. so I may try to bother them at the warehouse to check.

Cheers!

I’m photo sharing challenged....sorry.  ?

Looking at the exposed brake hub from the outside, the cylinder oriented is parallel to the ground....but, then viewing from the the other side of the hub (from under the car) the axis of the connections are at roughly 11 and 5 o’clock.  I did find (fingers crossed) the correct cylinders (#w51303) on eBay.  Apparently they are specific to the ‘78 and ‘79 pickups.

So, I was just at the brake shop due to seeping rear drum brake cylinders.  They sent for the listed parts for my 1978 620 pickup.  The cylinders they sent — though listed as fitting— were not correct.  The Ones I need are configured in a diagonal.  I’ll try to load pictures later, but does anyone know of some difference specific to the ‘78s?

Yes, it has an EI distributor.

i will change the plugs today.  They look good (cafe colored), but I want to cover all bases.

Picked up the manifold.  Zeroing in on a head.  

Sorry...150 not 15 on the cylinder compressions.  

The reason son I mentioned a different head and cam is that I thought I could switch things back, if needed.....and meanwhile enjoy a tad more performance.

Okay.  With a lot of minor adjustments and readjustments and then readjustments (as per suggestions here), we are running pretty well.  Once the timing was sorted, valve adjustments quieted things down and helped smooth Cold starts are easy to catch, but still need constant pedal gas’s to remain running. Once warmed up, (5 min. In SoCal)) idle is nice.

In hindsight, working through this was a pleasure due to all the help I received here.  THANK YOU...THANK YOU...THANK YOU

BTW, I even squeezed through the smog test...yay!

Now, time to start adding some power.

Compression is even at 15 across all cylinders.  

Would an l16 head make sense?

A more aggressive cam?

Discussions here seem to discount any real benefits of adding a header..

I’m not looking for a street racer performance, just awakening the potential and getting some punch.

Suggestions? (I have searched this.....seems to inspire a lot of back and forth resulting in ...at least for me...confusion)

I will do and or redo all of this.  

BTW, because it was originally an a/c equipped truck and the compressor bracket covered the mechanical fuel pump port, it was equipped with an electric fuel pump.  

Gasoline fill the bottom 3rd or 4th of the carb window.

i sprayed starter spray (ether) around all the carb fittings and no increase in revs.

okay, the good news is that it is running now in a way that allows driving.  Reving in neutral is vastly improved as is running once moving.  

The idle in gear is very tentative....seeming almost to stall at stops.  

The air cleaner is in place but other than being snugged down on the intake, none of the various tubes (other than one to the valve cover) are connected.  I have no idea what some are for (gulp valve, etc.), but hopefully some will at least stabilize performance.  Though I know smog devices don’t do that or else everyone would want them. 

I notice there is no white (bcdd) wire from the carb?  

There’s no dieseling ?

To get the right advances, the distributor adjustment still needs to be pegged to one side.

The most pressing issue (to me) is dealing with the weak idle in gear.

Thank you for your expert guidance on getting  me on the road.

I recently purchased a 1978 620 pickup (L20b with automatic).  It was running quite roughly and barely idling.  

Color me embarrassed.  The 620 I picked up already had some of the a/c components (York compressor, huge cast iron bracket, some ones...but not a completer set up.  I got the compressor out and am still struggling with the bracket.  It seems to be a poor design in that it blocks the plug on cylinder 4 and mashes the cable.  To do routine maintenance, one would need to remove the compressor and bracket.  In any case, I did not/do not  want an oem set up, but rather, a modern low draw compressor.  

Onwards and upwards"....

(ironically, I am currently installing a/c in my Karmann Ghia.  )

Again, many thanks for all the thought and advice you all generously provided.

I’ve replaced the cover photo on my profile with a engine picture with a red highlighted area. Is this structure a compressor?

Wait, that is from a 280 z, so I doubt it.  That would be too easy!

All this is very helpful!  Thank you.

I’m not sure how to post a photo here but I put a picture on my profile.  Is that the piece I am looking for?

There seems to be a bit of legislation in place that allows for vehicles from 1976 to 1981 to be exempt IF INSURED as antique autos.  I’m counting on that since I just picked up this car and it is not CA smog compliant.  Fingers crossed.  So I may be able to put something where the smog pump is supposed to go.

Sorry, this was put in the wrong category.  I will try to move it.

I have read a lot of old posts about the difficulties of adding A/C to a l20b 620 truck, but I want to give it a shot.  I understand that the appropriate compressor bracket is very hard to come by.  If no one has one available, does anyone know of a type that can be modified?  Or, even a picture of what a picture or diagram with measurements from which I could fabricate one?  I’m assuming it is critical to anchor to the compressor to the engine rather than the frame to avoid mismatched torsion across the belt.  

Other ideas?

Thanks