79D50

Thanks...

I got my newly powder coated Turbines yesterday and started installing them on the truck. A few studs are pretty bad and my fresh mag lugs would not thread properly. Can someone tell me the stock wheel stud size for a 1976 620. I couldn't locate the data in the book and search was useless. Thanks...

Count me in for sure. This sounds like a real good time. There is no way my datsun will be racing dirt roads but I'm with the NOOB...I will bring my YZ 125 and tear the shit up. Keep me posted on times/dates. What I will need is a ride and someone to put my 125 in the back of thier pickup. I'll pay gas and what not.

I got these spacers in today and they are nearly identical except for a small tab on the back portion that can simply be cut off with an exacto knife. Once I get them cut and in I will post some pics.

Fella's...my 620 has 2 inch blocks in the back and the torsion bars are cranked down to make it level. I am having a hard time getting that tucked look with 2" and having to choose a 225 or 235 60 15 to get the look I want. Those sizes look like balloons. If I dropped to 3" then I could get a 245 50 15 and it would look wide and tucked. 245 might rub. 225 50 15's are a choice but would 3" still be too high? Also, how far in inches can you crank the bars. I've heard of 5" but need confirmation. Search didn't yeild any conclusive results.

I called ABC Nissan Parts Wholesale and they listed the parts but they are discontinued. They ran .83 cents a peice. They do have 1981 720 spacers and I ordered those at $1.03 a pop. They can't be too much different and hopefully they will fit with a little fabbing. Both trucks require 5 and that is what comes when your order a pack. When i get them I will post some pics for reference. The guy said between 3-5 days. 1-800-373-1066 OEM Catalog Item Number MSRP Core Price Price 66820B5000 $1.10 $0.00 $0.83 GRILLE-COWL TOP

Thanks for the part number. I will see if these are available. If not, I will FAB something and let folks know what I come up with...Story of my life with this truck...

Does anyone have 4-5 cowl spacers.? Mine were all cracked and broken and I need the cowl from vibrating and shaking. I have tons of extra 620 parts. Let me know what you need and we can trade or I will pay cash...either way, please let me know. THX

They are certainly not impressive in stock form but did have excellent torque for a small motor. Much better than a stock L motor. Everyone knows torque is what gets you down the road. Opening these up to breath (extensive headwork) makes these motors come alive. Of course, many other supporting MODS were made. I have a C2 Procharger blowing through an intercooler and through a 38MM Weber Outlaw (426 CFM). It has been built to withstand the pressure. That was a very expensive instant 60 HP....I don't recommend going this route. If I were to do it again it would be a turbo build. I have a full write up of my build (changed many times) to get the best set-up and I'll dig it up and get it out to you via PM. I have lightened the flywheel and crank pulley and rotated the entire balance assembly. I will redline around 8 and it will get there in a hurry. I've got 10k just in machine and mechanical work. The design was the hardest part to get right and I went through many head combinations etc. I have 9:5:1 compression and did not build the block for a turbo. I don't have the oil squirters. I built it for a supercharger and the design was much like how you would build a big block. Some of the Conquest guys are getting 500+ HP out of these and they idle and drive like thier mothers cadillac. 350+ is usually the norm though if you have the dough to spend. Hell, the 89 Conquest if I remember right had 189/220 out of the box and it doesnt take much to hit 250+ if you build it correctly. I will send you my build specs. Again on the weight...do you know the difference? Sorry to thread jack so back on topic...My vote is between the KA and SR. KA for pure reliability and easy MODDING plus good MPG. The SR for MODDING (crazy power) and the reliability if you do MOD correctly.

whoops

I know the 620's and 510's only weigh 2500-2800 lbs. give or take so why would 150, even 200 HP be scary? If you have the right suspension, brake, and rearend modifications, then you should be safe as long as you know how to drive. Without those common sense modifications, I would agree it would be an accident waiting to happen. Although my Z had a totally different dynamic, my L28 was pushing 245 and weighed 2800 +. I considered that underpowered for how the car was set-up. Anytime you modify a motor or do a swap, there are weight and center of gravity issues to calculate as well as getting the power to the ground safely etc. Dislexic: I am interested to know what you think about the g54B's. I see you own a few conquests. Mine is built to displace just shy of 2.8 liters and I have eliminated balance shafts and components such as PS, AC etc. This will swap into the 620 eventually and I have started taking some measurements and it looks like the motor will fit but may be a bit tall due to the longer stroke. The tranny is the KM132 and has roughly the same size BH as the dogleg. What I don't have is an idea of weight so I can start planning the suspension and brake upgrades. Do you know approximately how much the G54B weighs as oppossed to an L18? Also, the motor is built to just shy of 250HP and as you know the torque numbers are spectacular for these engines (Stock is 105/140 as oppossed to the L18 @ 97/100). I'm curious to hear your thoughts on this.

The truck is 90% complete. My paint is finished and my interior will be completed late next week. I will have the next 2 weeks after to put everything back together (all brand new NOS or restored parts) This has been a full restoration and a very detailed project. I have been extremely busy with work and travel and managing this build on the side. I will post pics when the truck is 100% and if it is nice weather, bring it to one of the local meets. I'll give you the quick and dirty.... Body: Stripped to bare metal insde and out Shaved and filled (smooth from nose to tail) except door handles and side markers Paint: 5 coats base and 6 coats of clear with pearl Interior: New New New and Custom (Wait for Pics) Electric Locks Clifford Alarm Remote Start Many hidden kill switches (thieves beware) Sound System: Focal 5 1/4 Polyglass in custom molded kick panels JL XD 400/4 JL W3V3 8" Sub Kenwood Exceleon KDC X794 Dynamat on everything - The interior is a damn sound studio with the amount of time and material to make it quiet. I have my supercharged G54B going in next spring. The L18 will do for now. There is much more to this build and some of you will be able to see it in person soon. Radio - The box was a bitch due to the rusted bolts. Since I made those bolts and rubber bump stops, I have had the box off 3 times since with no issues. No time to take 5 pages and do a write up but if you have any questions, go ahead and ask.

PM me with your interest. Again...common sense prevails with your application. Personally, I have correctly colored LED lights underneath all my clear lenses. I'm not your mother...and don't care if you buy them to sit on a shelf, give to your friends or otherwise. People are going to do what they want regardless of the arguments and back and forth chatter on a forum. It's an opportunity for a customized part. Take it or leave it - it is that simple.

I've got close to 10 people purchasing as of this afternoon. Please let me know if you are interested as I am combining orders into one invoice and sending the order off this weekend. Once the order is placed this post can be shut down. Thanks

Start pulling up some pictures of the custom Datsuns on this forum in the sticky's and you will see all sorts of "illegal" customizations. It is all up to an individuals style and taste. Some "MODS" are better than others. For every day street use, I agree in regards to safety etc. For show use or infrequent (Sunday)driving, I don't see a problem. I know a lot of guys who are restoring thier rigs here and it is simply a very cool option and quite frankly an opportunity. Not many vendors are out there making cool aftermarket parts for us Datsun folk. Now with that said I have plans to use LED lights for markers and tails. I recommend these to anyone considering the lense modification. They are yellow and red respectively which will shine through the clear in the colors people expect and are accustomed to seeing. These LEDS are so bright they will shine through lightly smoked lenses as well. Now, the blue, orange, green etc tailights are strictly custom for show use and can be made for those who want them. Let your imagination be your guide but don't compromise your common sense. If you want the lenses reproduced exactly like OEM (red and white) or like the aftermarket (red, white and yellow signals), they can be made too. Let me set it straight and let's be done with this debate... ***THESE ARE NOT INTENDED TO INSTALL ON A DAILY DRIVER UNLESS YOU ARE REQUESTING STOCK CONFIGURATIONS. CLEAR, SMOKED OR OTHERWISE IS FOR SHOW PURPOSES ONLY.***

Ok Mr. Negative (bet you have heard that before huh Mike?) I'm an asshole because I spend 15K+ on a full restoration to go to shows etc. Watch who you are calling an asshole. There are all kinds of custome tailights, marker lights etc that you see at car shows. If you are a daily driver, I see your point, as vague as it is. This is for people who want to enjoy something unique. Stay out of people's posts if you are going to be a nay sayer - is that clear? For people who have some money to spend on a unique product because they are restoring a vehicle to custom, the offer stands. PM me if your interested.

Hey Guys/Gals, So I got some information back from my plastic guy on the price to get a custom set of tailights made for the 620 truck ('73 - '79). It is expensive to produce these as the molds and castings requires a lot of man hours and material. He told me if I can get 10 people to order, we can get them for $100 a set (left and right side). You have the option of ordering them in clear, smoked, blue, orange etc. Please let me know if you are interested and please, only respond if you are seriously interested in a set. No one else produces these currently so it really is good price when you take into consideration they are completely customized and unique. The lenses do retain OEM fit and function so they are simply a bolt and go application. FYI - All transactions are handled through paypal and invoices/reciepts will be sent to the email address you specify. This is a legitimate offer and my guy is very professional. Thanks Everyone, Paul

I've been scouring the web looking for a new set of door sills for my 76 620 and have found nothing. My originals are trashed. I see that you can buy them for the Z's and was wondering if anyone here has fabbed them to work or used any other material/method. My interior guy is getting close to completion and we need these metal sills to finish the job. Any ideas? THX

Good advice. That is not me in the pics so my lungs are safe. More pics will be up shortly. It currently sits in my interior guys shop ready for a full makeover. Then it will go back to body/paint for the final wetsand and polish.

Thanks for the reminder on the UV protectant. I will need to ask. Worst case scenario is applying a light coat of clear to both sides to prevent aging. Let me know what some of you guys want to do and perhaps we can get some deals going here. I have ordered my tails already and payed more than necessary because he was relunctant to make them for just one guy. I have a keen eye for detail and do not cut corners. I have ordered parts from all over the world for this restoration. - Bankok - China - Japan - Australia - Germany - Mexico - Puerto Rico and about 15 states. The most questionable parts come from overseas in Thailand and Bankok. The best comes from Australia, Germany and Puerto Rico. In the way of quality some parts are better than others and overall I am happy with everything. This guy has a quality product and is a straight shooter who communicates well. It has been enjoyable doing business with him.

Since we had the bed and cab off the frame we decided to clean it all up real nice with a DA and some wire brushes. Once we were getting 35 years of road grime and gunk of everything, we shot the entire frame with RAPTOR which is a spray in bedliner product. I highly recommend this stuff. The kit cost about $180 bucks and contains the spray gun plus 4 bottles of spray. We sprayed the entire frame top and bottom, the inside of the bed (after we dollied out all the dents and dings, the underside of the bed, the floor of the cab, the inside roof of the cab, the inner fenders, the inside of the fenders themselves, the inside of the bottom of the doors where the water vents/drains go, the fuel tank (the tank took forever to clean and DA - it was really caked on) and the back of the cab. Of course we removed every speck of rust and dirt before spraying. The pictures are before and after. the pics I had of the cleaned /DA'd surfaces were lost when my BB puked...Shit happens!! This stuff covers awesome and we used about 3.5 almost 4 full kits. This not only strenghthens the integrity of the metal from flex and vibration, but it acts as a sound deadner and will prevent rust from ever coming back - period. Here are some pics: More to come.

4 sidemarkers are $100 + shipping back and forth. Tails are not included. The molding and casting process is time consuming and materials are expensive. As he was explaining it to me, to make it cost effecitve (say for example chevelles or older GMC trucks) he makes 20+ molds because he knows there is a demand and he can turn a profit. When there is hardly any demand, the price reflects this. It is expensive to get these made but nice custom things usually are expensive right? I haven't gotten a feel for what tails cost yet. We all know how this works. The more people that are serious about getting some sets made, the less expensive it becomes. I'll keep people posted.

Custom peices cost money. There is no getting around that. I have nothing to gain. I am just sharing my restoration adventure. The fronts I purchased off EBAY and those clear lenses are really nice. Thats the extent of purchasing clear lenses for your 620. The Z's have clear markers and you can get them from Too Intense Restoration but I have not seen anything for 510's or other models. I had no choice but to make the markers and tails. Those who are intersted can reply. If not, that's cool too. Like I said, just giving people options.

I am doing a frame off restoration so these are completely custom. My front turns, side markers, and tails will all be clear and I have the colored LED bulbs ready to install. Yes, stock is yellow in front and red in back. The nice thing about these is they retain the look and fitment of the OEM markers just minus the color. You can use your existing gaskets/bezels, screws etc. In the mind frame of a full restoration $100 bucks is cheap and I am sure a group interest would drop this price. I am the first guy to have this company make 620 lenses.

You will need to weld the top of the bolts to the 2" steel peice you fabricated as mentioned earlier in this post. This is why you got the grade 5 bolts. Here are some side by side comparisons of the finished product next to the old bolts. All of the material to make these bolts came to $45 bucks at Lowes and Tacoma Screw, and my time to make them was less than 2 hours. After welding and before final assembly, prime and paint the bolts, washers, and nuts flat black for added protection. I used Rustoleum. If you have any questions, let me know. There is much more I have to post so stay tuned.