reza

On 5/4/2020 at 12:19 PM, Greaser2 said:

Where’d you get the rack?

NOS from yahoo japan auctions. 

😐

These are unicorns anywhere pretty much, running and driving is even rarer as most haven't seen the pavement in 20-30 years. small group of enthusiasts. 

20 hours ago, jbirds510 said:

well so far ive seen or heard nothing to give the impression they will be closed but Junes is still pretty far away, perhaps they are just waiting, just like us. They are closed until April every year anyway.

Looking at the age of the people running the park last year, its easy to see, they are going to be extremely cautious. 

I suggest going to harbor freight and buying the 20 dollar spray gun, then go to a automotive paint store and buy a quart of paint with the best color match. You want to choose this out of the industrial color card book, as it is cheapest. These paints will be a single stage and similar to what a datsun was originally painted with. Nissan didn't use a clear coat from the factory, throw some hardener and shoot it. Don't use spray cans, it'll cost the same with worse results. 

Tell the paint tech you have no idea what you are doing and he will spell it out for you, he is hourly and no doubt would like to flex is knowledge on the subject. 

I will add, please, when Mike tells you not to swap to a manual trans from the BW, please listen. its never going to be a race car and the auto trans greatly improves the quality of the every day drive.  I've had both BW and manual trans and I can say the BW is the way to go with this car. 

Still driving it weekly, takes awhile to warm up, runs great around 195-200 degrees I'll be hooking up the chokes this week, Still hunting rare parts, side lamps, radio delete, you know the really important stuff. amazing looking through my post and seeing how far this car has come. 

5 hours ago, jbirds510 said:

I just got asked about drones..This is not something that even crossed my mind.. please post your thoughts on this.. I personally think the footage might be nice, Ill ask the venue its policy if there is even a policy..But id LOVE to hear others opinions.

Would be killer footage to help promote future shows, I mean for ffs its 2020, every show has at least one boner flying a drone. 

Edit: It's not a antique engine and tractor show, Datsun dudes are slaves to tech. 

They designed them for aftermarket use on the Datsun 410/411, Jeco and Citizen made the factory installed clocks, the instructions show a artists interpretation of a 410/411 dash when installing.  Pic snagged from "swedishcadillac" 

7 hours ago, MikeRL411 said:

Save that Borg Warner M35 transmission and the gear shift hardware and sell later to someone looking to rebuild his or her original.  The steering wheel upper cover with gear shift identification is also a rare part. The WRL and RL engines have an add on socket on the engine block to accommodate the BW shift mechanism.  One of the reasons for the engine ID number to have a "1" first digit. There is also a fitting on the front frame to accept the outboard end of the shift shaft. My M35 has lasted 52 years but I have a complete rebuild kit just in case.

I gave it to Bananahamock and ted when they came down to buy some windshields from me. I think they were going to give it to someone who needed a spare? 

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

 

Most of the cheapies are...

It's not about being cheap or expensive, my less than satisfactory review was to help other 411 owners, i would hope after reading, they wouldn't make the same mistake I did by purchasing from jc whitney. My opinion is to use your own original carpet as a templet and do it yourself because there is no other off the shelf alternative to this kit. 

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

I'm not defending JC Whitney, but generally speaking, the rear carpet piece goes in first.  The back edge tucks under the rear seat, the left and right edges go under the sill plates, and the front edge goes under the seat.  The front piece goes over the rear under the seats and covers the edge, so if it was edge bound, it wouldn't show.

 

Most of those kits come with the edges a bit frayed, and I've taken a lighter and singed them up a bit instead of trying to pull them or cut them off.

 

I had a similar kit I installed into my Sunny, and I did have to trim the side edges a bit.  I also took a heat gun and CAREFULLY heated the carpet to lay down a bit better over the tunnel BEFORE trimming the edges.  The kit was a bit of work to install, but it wasn't much money and it looked pretty good when I was finished.  

 

I don't know your car at all, but I've done a few of these kits, and most of them are about the same. 

 

 

 

 

 

 Its a shit carpet kit. 

David Jernigan came to town, you may have seen him at the last canby show, tall guy who took several thousand pictures. He took some photos of my wagon last weekend and uploaded them to his flickr page, if you want to check them out, heres the link!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/djerniganphoto/with/48898393018/

11 hours ago, MikeRL411 said:

Then the quality really has deteriorated !  My kit was well dimensioned, edge bound and installed well.  Quite a few years ago I will admit.  Return it for refund!

Yeah Mike, the problem is whitney is a commissioned dealer, they likely had a different manufacturer at the time you ordered.  I won't be ordering from them again.

So here's a heads up for anyone considering the JC whitney kit. DON'T BUY IT.  Opened the box to find the carpet is somewhat larger and fits wonky in the car, The fronts are a typical non molded 3 piece. The fronts have piping, however the rears have NO piping and look like I grabbed a box cutter and just hacked out a pattern with it. the rears are already fraying and look completely unfinished. really disappointing, the same kit could be made half assed for 35 dollars in materials, I spent 165. 


and speaking with the customer reps over the internet was just as poor as the quality of this fitment. I wont support JC whitney or buy any of their products. 

I am looking for a source for windshield reproduction gaskets, is their a source available? 

4 hours ago, MikeRL411 said:

A radiator fan guard and a clock.  Very good !  Find an original intake filter housing [has integral intake horns] and hook up that "PCV" snorkle and you are home !

I do have the original filter housing, however for on the spot tuning, I've installed the vintage adjustable stacks that are easily accessable for my airflow meter. I do have to route my crankcase vent, which ill route somewhere else. I may have a header made for the exhaust and buy dual weber 40s and intake for the r16. 

I didn't give up! I just have not updated, Runs, Drives. Beautiful car. 

1 hour ago, Trophy24 said:

I believe they got it running and driving Saturday night. 

Yeah we did, a lot of fun. after figuring out the column shift pattern, Bluebird Jimmy couldn't stop smiling. First time driving in the states. 

37 minutes ago, carterb said:

 

 

Who's Bluebird?

More pics/info?

 

I believe it is this car:

 

 

That was jimmys 4dr. He sold it to kenny in redding. 

8 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

Duncans aussie 510 wagon was all done with eastwood non lead metal filler if you want to read through his thread.

Thanks for the info, I'll give his thread a read. I like Eastwoods tinning butter but I'm primed to use 60/40 or 70/30, I work outside, will wash hands and I primarily shape with body files.
the real lead/tin goes on so much easier and I have to be careful working on this 20 gauge sheet metal, whenever I've seen guys using eastwood non lead, they are working on 18 gauge panels for old fords, that may be more forgiving. 

50 minutes ago, jbirds510 said:

It’s a soft metal that files down really nice, not intended for structural but pretty much ideal for your application. It won’t stretch shrink or crack like lead or body filler..it’s metal it just doesn’t have carbon, very similar to brass (braze). I tend to use it when doing sheet metal repair like a mid slinger would use glazing putty

I see what you're saying as far as acting like a glaze, I'll watch some more videos of it, I've checked out some on youtube already, my main concern would be overheating the panel due to being a noob at the process and warping it all to hell :)  I'll have to talk to you more about this process, looks like it would be killer to use on the interior and window posts. 

3 hours ago, jbirds510 said:

I’d do silicone bronze instead of lead personally, just a thought.

You're going to have to fill me in on what silicone bronze is and how it could be used😂 im familiar with lead, thats why i would choose that method over 2 part body filler. 

Friday night camping! Count me in.