captaingamez

Last but not least, here are some parts I built for future upgrades and for my shop, Techno Classic. 240SX 1.125 inch Throttle body spacer Nissan L6 manifold flange with built in injector bungs. All the machined stuff you see is completely designed, programmed and ultimately run on the mill by yours truly.

Also got a 280ZX master cylinder, they are 15/16 instead of 7/8 on the Maxima. The lines face a different direction, but thats an easy fix with the several flare tools I have. The other suspension upgrade I am finishing up two parts for this week is the rear coil overs. I have been using a pair of S13 Tanabe Sustecs for a long time and they, and my top hats have started to go bad. So I designed some new top hats in Fusion and programmed them for mill to cut tomorrow or tuesday. That solves the problem of rear top hats for these cars.

I did a complete exhaust on the car, mild steel since I am in AZ, but all Stainless V bands. 2.5' all the way back. I do not have a damn picture. I need to get one next time I put it on the rack. Right now my brake system is starting to go, calipers have slight seepage of fluid. And my tension rods have taken a shit......SO.......I am going to upgrade the entire brake system with Z32 30mm thick rotors and 4 piston calipers. Maxima rotor vs Z32 rotor. Thickness: 18mm vs 30mm Diameter: 250mm vs 280mm WEIGHT: 7.8LB VS 17.5LBS!!!!!!! Maybe I went overkill.............Nahh.......... And for anyone thinking that............An S13 track car weighs about 2600 lb........a moderately built Maxima with no people inside is about 2800 lb.....

I finished the sun visors in the same black suede material of the door panel inserts. They turned out better than the picture can show honestly. I do not have an installed picture, but anybody with an L engine needs to do this if you have an electrical system that will handle it. The Dodge Monaco CS130 alternator, its a direct bolt on once you swap the pulley and get a GM CS130 alternator pigtail. Its 96 amp output at a much lower activation speed than any Nissan BS 60a alternator. This will allow you to have great reliable power and run electrical accessories. I plan on putting electric fans in the car before the MegaSquirt goes in (yes....I am still doing it....) and a small amp for my speakers in the car. So with the ECU, Fans, Stereo, and potentially some other items in the future like a larger better fuel pump, my electrical demands have out powered the 60 amp stock alternator.....which the car was probably underpowered electrically almost from factory anyway...........

This car belongs to Erik Flores, Very cool Kyusha, Shakotan style. We hung out a bit at the show and then drove through long beach. I will have to find the video. These other two MINT condition Maximas belong to Mr. Ray Jorgensen.

I cant believe I have not updated this since May of last year. A lot has happened since then but it is hard to seem like a lot since the car is my current daily driver.......Thank god for all the work I put in over the first year I had the car. The biggest thing that happened is that I was registered in JCCS this year, and I am planning on going again for the 2017 event. It was a ton of fun. I met some cool people and we actually had 4 1sg generation Maxima 910s there. There have been quite a few upgrades in that time as well, as well as many I have planned for the soon to come future. Here are the pics from JCCS ths year.

Not much has been done in the past 6 months. I daily the car so it has just been minor maintainence and fluid changes and such. I had a radio issue so I am working on getting the stuff together to do a nice stereo in the car. I also finished the rear speaker deck which sits behind the rear passenger seats. I did it in the suede that I did the armrest inserts in. Soon going to be building the rear suspension with the AGX from a camaro. Hopefully soon going to be working on some a pretty gnarly new turbo manifold for the L28ET. And the MegaSquirt. So the direction of the car has not changed. I am just stuck in a rut right now from starting my own business, which is where all the money goes right now lol. The car now sits just shy of 240,000 miles and runs flawlessly on a daily basis. I have about 20,000 miles on this drivetrain now and still no real issues. I got the driver side axle rebuilt now as well, so both are pretty new. I do have the problem of my driveshaft bolts getting loose over time, which only becomes a problem if I dont check them, which I do.

I would like to express my sincerest appreciation to Denmarkboy for helping me grab this so that I can finish the wagon.

More like asking to get a Mopar part. I would agree if I was asking for a Toyota part, lolol.

Im asking car guys to help me build a car.

@love ke70 I will PM you.

Hey guys. I have been building a Wagovan for my wife for the last couple months. I need a hood really bad, and there is one in Reedsport that matches the car color and fade. I am looking for someone who is close and can take it to the Greyhound station for me. Any help would be appreciated. the hoods are specific to the Civic Wagovan and no other model will fit. And the cars are very scarce here in AZ. Thanks, Derek.

I didnt put two and two together that you were you until tonight when Nick pointed it out. Love the builds man.

That was one of the ones I was looking at actually. They look really nice.

Those are awesome cars man. I want to import a 910 coupe here some day.

The B/W T5 Tranny is excellent. Every shift is like closing the bolt on a precision long range rifle. The transmission alone changes the entire feel of the car. It is one of the best upgrades I have ever done. The shift is very short, I cant even imagine it with a short throw........ and a Hurst is the next upgrade...... One thing I am certain of is you need to use the Amsoil Synchromesh MTF for the best performance. I have yet to find a better gear lubricant for this type of transmission.

A note on this drivetrain setup if you need a driveshaft. If you plan on changing diff/trans components in the future, but you need a driveshaft made now........Get the shaft made for the stock manual trans and diff. The output shaft and input flange sit in the exact same place on FS5/T5 and R180/R200, so if you have a good driveshaft builder, he can build you a shaft, and then if you change a component he can just change the input/output on THAT yoke. If I wanted to go back to stock components I could still use this driveshaft, But I would need to take it back to the shop that built it and have them change whichever (or both) sides to match for like $50.

Got back under the car to check a couple things. Everything is good to go so far. About 100 miles on it now. Took a few shots while I was down there. Next is the exhaust.

The ride is phenominal. The front is perfect with these springs and shocks. The rear is a bit hard with the Tanabes but not too bad. I cant remember off hand how much I sectioned out of them but it was somewhere around 40mm.

And here is how she sits now.

Next was to install the T5, R200, Axles, and have a one piece driveshaft built. The T5 fits in a 4 speed auto car without a hitch, but I feel it would be quite a challenge to get in there if the car was originally a manual transmission from factory. As I have said many times before, the tunnel for 4 speed automatic cars is much larger than the tunnel for manual, and 3 speed automatic cars. Also the shifter hole for the manual cars is much much smaller, and will also cause a problem. The one minor issue I ran into was that the shifter hole needed to be cut about 1/2" on the rear side to make it easier to get the shifter plate into the car. It can be done from under with a wrench, but you really dont want to if your going through all this work. Only other difference is that the transmission mount holes on the T5 are farther back. Same spacing, just 30mm towards the rear I could not get pictures of the new driveline in the car. I will, but I am going to have to get the car on the lift to take them. I had to do all this on the ground for lack of a lift. I totally forgot to take a picture of the new driveshaft. She was a beauty though. I was told it would hold over 550 FT-LB with these yokes, but thats a substantial amount more than this car will ever make.Also i would like to replace the ugly, tiny stock exhaust first before I show off. Ha ha ha. The driveshaft must fit 1005mm and a 26 spline with 1.377 output shaft seal I.D. , and the rear yoke must fit a Nissan 1.962 center hole. Next was the rear end. I had alot of reservations about the 280zx Turbo diff fitting. Luckily with good measuring and the Turbo axles, it fits with no issues at all. You have two options for the mount, and thats the onnly modification you need to do. 1: cut the original mount where it offsets, flip it, and weld it back together. or 2: you make a billet one piece mount like I did. I can provide you with specs if you need them. I was not financially able right now to get the LSD installed, but I will buy another diff and do it in the future, probably around the time of the turbo install. Here is a picture of the difference in size, R180 VS R200.

Well its been a fun two weeks. I installed a large quantity of new parts. First was the suspension. We did the standard AGX dampers from an MR2 in cut, welded, and gusseted shock tubes with Eibach springs and Project Mu camber plates. For the rear I simply used the OEM top hats and a pair of Tanabe coilovers from a 240sx. One strut is in only so so condition so the pair will be replaced soon with another custom setup.

These didnt come with dogleg mike.

Sorry datsnuts, I didnt see your post until now. The turbo engine still has not gone in. I am planning it for next year. All ears to hear any ideas you have about putting it in.