captaingamez

Introduction: I am starting this thread to go over MODERN wiring practices in an performance automobile, Post my findings, Ideas, Get feedback and opinions from the initiated, and suggest new ideas for wiring cars in the post 2000 Era If you prefer old wiring, justify the use of old wiring at 50 years old, or like "wire based fusible link" systems "Because they work" This is absolutely the wrong thread for you. We eliminate ALL of that here regardless of "If it works" If you wish to rewire your Datsun with MODERN components, 280 series relays, PDMs, Breakers, JCase Fuse links and MAXI fuses then you are in the right place. First I am going to start off with the suggestion that old junk in a Datsun/Nissan from the 60s through early 90s isnt good anymore if you like your car to work for the rest of your life and dont want to work on it or diagnose electrical things. The copper itself is fine, the issue is the insulation, the wrapping, the old style crimps that have been bypassed by new stuff, non waterproof connectors, old wire tubing that isnt used now for good reason. Basically almost every aspect of vehicle wiring was dramatically improved upon in the 90s and early 2000s. We now use fully sealed harnesses, Fuse Links that are enclosed in a box and easily swapable and available everywhere, and PDMs for smaller relays as well as Solid State switching. Everyone has their own way of doing this, This is mine based on years of doing it for clients and my own cars and motorcycles, and working with people MORE professional than myself.. Suggestions are welcomed, but dont be offended if I have info on why not to do something a certain way that is suggested. I can tell you the number one argument here will be crimp vs solder. We do not solder pins and splices. Period. I am going to update this as I do some fairly in depth wiring procedures over the next 6 months Example of components I currently am using : GEP 96 Pin PDM for 2890 series components GEP JCase Fusible link housing. Easy to find on the inteweb

These are from when I got the car running and tuned with the turbo engine.. It was still running an Ebay BOV and intercooler at this point, I ran it like this for about a year befor4e upgrading the Intercooler. the BOV left quick because they are junk. First and last time for ebay BOV lol. its been running a TiAL QR since shortly after this.

I believe the easiest pics I have to upload as far as progression goes are these. This image resizing is extremely irritating Gussetted front tension rod buckets, old engine removed, new engine installed with manifolds...this was 2017

So in efforts to update my build thread, Should I remove all the photobucket links and replace them with uploaded images? The 4MB thing is annoying, it requires you to have 2 copies of every picture on an Android. but whatever if it woks.

I heard they still build Datsuns in this group.....

Im not sure what happened to the posts but I know this was updated since 2018. Oh well a lot has happened since then . I have been off the forums for a while. I believe I will start updating this again. Current status of the car is its been sitting for the last year just getting upgrades. It has mostly been on the road since then with two different engine builds, both the same block but it ran 395tq and 367hp onthe dyno with the stock L28ET i was installing in the last few pages.

The Drilling of the forward dipstick hole boss will be ignored. We will now locate the dipstick on the oil pan itself which we will expand capacity of simultaneously

To address the oil pan.... Skylines, Glorias, and Maximas are all front sumped oil pans, meaning that the majority of foreign L engines are going to be front sumped and very dificult to use in a Z car. However the front sump going into a 910, R30, KPGC10 or 110, or Gloria is almost just as dificult. This was the most dificult part of the swap into a Maxima, or any other front engined car I would imagine. This is a very much Machinist task. If you arent confident you can do this, dont even try. But I will willingly rent anyone the Jig for $40 shipped. I am a Machinist. This is what I do every day and all day, nothing was out of the ordinary for this task and I still was not excited to do it. Then afterwards you must tap the holes carefully. This cast should leave an absolutely beautiful thread if yo completed the job correctly.

Tial F38 set at 8.5 PSI (will be changed to 14.5 PSI before the dyno and then boost control) The turbo is a rebuilt T3/T4 hybrid, AGP .82 back housing. I believe its a 60/68 but Im not entirely certain to be honest. This is a rebuilt NPR turbo with different housings. I dont have a picture of it assembled after ceremic coating. But this is the housing with the EGT bung welded in. I am running a mass EGT location so I can monitor gas temps. I am using an HKS EGT gauge.

The Nissan L28ET turbo manifold is a piece of crap. Im going to put that out in the open right away. I sold it, and dont plan on ever owning one ever again for any reason other than a paperweight. At 38 years old, and getting older, this cast iron is not holding up, its not holding power, it has no resilience, and worst of all, its not doing what we as engine builders in 2018, need our engines to do. I decided to build a new manifold. I had two requirements 1: Semi equal length design (all runners within 1-2 inches length with design considerations) 2: external wastegate 3(option): original Hitachi AC pump fitment. I began by getting L6 flanges from a friend who had them. I used a combination of ASTm Weld Els and ASTM bends. All Schedule 40 mild. This was intentional because I plan on ceramic coating the manifold. I am not going to make 30 posts about my fabrication process. That would take a 5 page thread to explain how it was done and show all the pictures. I may do that soon, but not in this thread. The turbo sits in an ideal location for a lot of cars. I used a TiAl F38 wastegate. Extremely reliable for this hot location and running no water lines to my gate. Everything was hand cut, every part was built by myself at our shop.the collector goes in 3 different directions to make it fit in the area easily without intruding ont he steering shaft. I use a LInde UCC-305 TIG power supply for equipment with a WeldCraft 310 torch. The ports after porting And after she returned from ceremic coating.

JCCS 2017. Parking sort of sucked. Hopefully I can make it again this year

After I got the fog lights restored (which I will document in another thread) I installed a bar on them This picture is about 10-11 months ago, so this will be the last update of the car in it's previous form. A lot has happened since then. its not the same car anymore. I will update some today and continue until its current. Sorry for the delays but I simply didnt have the ability to sit down and fix this entire thread from the Photobucket issues, though it was on my agenda for things to do in 2018. Thankfully Photobucket pulled their heads out of their asses. Hell, I might even pay for thier service now.....haha.

Wow all images restored.

Oh Boy they fixed Photobucket..........Time for a very large update.....

At Nissan Jam I found these on Datsmo's table, they are the Nismo Auto Louver Fog Lamps. They are extremely rare and I have been wanting a set since I saw this video about 3 years ago. Honestly wasnt sure I would ever find them.

At Nissan Jam 2017 We only had two cars registered but there were 6 Maxima 910 owners there and we got 5 us together at the end of the show for pictures. In LA

The last two things on the list were to install the oil cooler and shorten the bumper sides. I have had a 280ZX turbo Automatic engine complete for a long time so I used the housing from that as it is an OEM part I wanted to be a cool kid and put it out the bumper and show off....BUT in arizona people drive like crap and are also assholes. So I decided to hide it behind the grill For the bumpers I decided to use the quick releases popular in the Honda world and shorten the sides. I feel it looks more aesthetic personally.

As I stated earlier, on page 23, I am going to be making brackets for the Z32 calipers and rotors. But to be able to drive the car for now I had to rebuild the front brake calipers, they just started leaking too badly. Here are the calipers with new seals. I also discovered that the rubber lines were getting a bit too old so I had new lines custom made at Parker from BrakeQuip line and ends. I did not use the wierd box style end that is used ont he maxima from factory as it is not neccessary.

The next thing I needed to finish this year is to fis my chassis harness to EFI connectors. The factory datsun circular connectors were pretty beat, and very corroded, so on both the EFI/MAIN harness connector and the MAIN/SUB ENGINE harness connectors I replaced them with 8 pin GM Weatherpack connectors. And at the same time I fixed the issue of the Cylinder head temperature sensor going through both of those connectors before it goes into the EFI harness. Mine now bypasses those connectors and goes direct to the EFI computer. I used newer EV1 connectors with push clips on them that do not come off. Also re wrapped the whole engine EFI harness and used a new TPS plug. At the same time I replaced all the old hoses on the injectors and put in all new injector seals to make sure of no air leaks. This is after completion of the harness rewire I also needed all that done because I needed to do an intake/exhaust gasket and replace the freeze plugs on that side of the motor. replaced all the plugs in the thermostat housing as well as a new thermostat for the first time since I did the timing chain/tensioners. As you can see, Cylinder number 4 was a bit lean and also burning oil through the valve seals more than the others I believe. Air being the main issue which came from bad intake/ex gasket.

When I got the loom cut open, around the back of the shock tower, inside the loom I started to see a lot of corrosion, and that lead me to finding that where the alternator lead splices into the main loom, the lead is connected with about a good solid 4 wires........which broke upon me moving the lead. So luckily I caught all this before it actually caused me an issue. Something to keep in mind for those of you still using old harnesses in your vehicles. Here are the fuse boxes mounted up. Here is a picture of the alternator lead itself, it uses two 8 ga wires wrapped and soldered into a ferule that goes into the fuse box. The other end uses a copper ring that mounts to the alternator. This is the finished product mounted where the AC control solenoids used to go.

In late April we decided to go to Nissan Jam this year. That meant I had to get a lot of the stuff done that I needed to do for JCCS except 3 months earlier!!.But there is no motivation like a deadline. The first thing I really needed to do that had been pressing is the fuse upgrade. Like other Nissans of this era the Maxima 910 uses fusible link wires instead of modern links or fuses. The system is only rated to 80 amps on its largest link and I have now a 96 amp alternator in the car as I documented earlier on page 23. In order to do this I needed to separate the alternator from the rest of the system since it runs on a shared fusible link from factory. To do the fusing I decided to use two triple Mini ANL fuse holders. This operation started by removing the relay box and the fusible link holder and cutting the wires back to where the alternator leads into the main harness. On our new setup the alternator will go directly into the fuse box with its own independent fuse.

I finished the rear shocks. And got them in the car. I cant believe it took me so long to get around to doing these. The car rides amazing now, its so tight. The parts are in for the Oil Cooler. Im using the 280ZXT Auto oil sandwich plate. adapted to AN10. I just ordered a new PS rack and quite a few other parts. Next thing I will be doing is getting the brakes and front control arms situated. Rack is getting plumbed with SS AN lines as well as everything else. Fuel system is going to come right after the suspension is fully complete in the front end.

I finished up the top hats on the machine. the other day. I also got a piece to finish the sleeve to go over my Konis so I can mount an adjustable perch on them. These are the clevis/heim parts I am using to make my front LCA setup. All designed in house.

I figured I should add this to the thread. Im very happy that JNC did a piece on these cars. http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/consider-the-following-g910-nissan-maxima/

facebook and instagram. Currently I only make the flange, I might make an intake for it in the future too but currently we just make the flange. We are going to make more parts for the L engines in the future too.