Toyanvil

It has been a long time since I had to do this with a 1967 Bronco that all the smog was removed, so it may not work today. I took my Bronco to the CA smog referee they only made you put back on the parts still available. in my case, the part were no longer available and they gave me a waiver. Good luck

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Carburetor_Conversion_Kits_s/25.htm?gclid=CO2F-8v2vLgCFZB_QgodHQsAWg or http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/336.htm

If it still does it after you install the new advance, check the float level, if it is to high it will run like that.

1 3/8" oval port I am running a H89 head.

If adjusting the rod does not work, it maybe the input shaft is gummed up or has some rust on it and the clutch disc is hanging up on the input shaft a little. common on cars that have not been driven for long time. Sometimes just driving will make it work better.

Anyone have a 1975 B210 intake manifold they want to sell ? I am looking for one to weld up all the smog holes and clean off all the extra mounts to give it an old school look to run with a header.

The marks are on the timing cover and there is a groove on the pulley.

Your Weber is a good carb and just needs setting up. Your Primary idle jet should be a .55 as a starting point, you can check it in 2 mins. Here is a link for tuning it. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm your fuel pressure should not be over 2.5 to 3 psi. I would start by pulling the spark plugs and looking at the color, should be light brown. white is lean, black is rich. Also check your timing with the vacuum advance hooked up, at high RPMs some Weber 32/36 vacuum port will hold vacuum all the way to top end without backing off.(meaning mechanical and vacuum are both advanced at the same time at top end) If this is happening your total end timing will be way to high (should not be over 34) you can burn a piston. I have been run a Weber on my A14 for 30 years and it has been great. Here is a list if the jets in my A14 (should be a good starting place) Primary main jet 140 Secondary main jet 135 Primary air corrector jet 165 Secondary air corrector jet 160 Primary idle jet .55 Secondary idle jet 50 Primary emulsion tube F50 Secondary emulsion tube F6

+1 sounds like your bellhousing bolts are loose. If it is an auto trans check the flex plate bolts.

If you do go with one check your timing with the vacuum advance hooked up, at high RPMs some Weber 32/36 vacuum port will hold vacuum all the way to top end without backing off. If this is happening your total end timing will be way to high and you can burn a piston. I only use mechanical advance.

Your fuel pressure should not be over 3.5 psi. Also check your timing with the vacuum advance hooked up, at high RPMs some Weber 32/36 vacuum port will hold vacuum all the way to top end without backing off. If this is happening your total end timing will be way to high and you can burn a piston.

I have a stock rebuilt A14 with 32/36 Weber that I installed a new cam in and now I can not get it to idle. Over a 1000 rpm it runs great, but under it wants to stall. I am thinking it maybe to big, but before I pull it out and go back to stock, I thought I would see if anyone has an ideas. I am going to try adjusting the valves to ( in .016 & ex .018) Here is the info of the cam. A14 684 8614 2G14 N-02 A15 Japan H50 M V 283 vo grind 272 degree duration @ .012 109 degree lode sep .424 lift Clearance In .014 Ex .016

My car is a 1961 Sunbeam Alpine. The motor fits great but tight, it is easyer to install the block then the head with the manifold, there is only 3/4" between steering box and manifold.

Ready for the motor Hope to have it in tomorrow.