sunny310

There are 2 hoses on the firewall that are cut. Have no idea what they're for. I'll have to take some pics n post em. Where do the heater hoses run from? Is it from the waterpump to the firewall?

79 210 heater is blowing cold air. What do I need to check? This is my first B310 with hvac in it so not familiar with it. Car is an a/c car. Also the carburetor stays idling high even after it warms up and I keep have to stab the gas pedal to make it go down, which doesn’t always work...also has a small hesitation issue. How do I solve these issues?

Also I need to fix the connector on the fusible link from the battery terminal to the link wire itself. Can I just cut it n use spade connectors? 

No haven’t looked under the carpet yet but I’m confident it’s fine since the whole car has very little rust. Finally changed my valve cover gasket last night so no more oil leaks. Also fixed the side molding n put it back on the car. Drove it to work today

In the dead of winter it barely gets above 20F up here. Last winter we got as low as -45F. Not taking it on the highway yet. Just using it around town for now. Will change out to 10w30 after a bit. Once it starts to snow i probably won’t be driving it that much since I live on a hill n it probably won’t make it up to my house(my E39 Bmw and Chevy c10 has the same issue). I do have one of those magnetic block heaters. Have to find it 

I actually used 5w30 cuz up here in the Dakotas we get really harsh winters. Will make it easier to start when it’s freezing out

I think the car needs to be driven too. They actually started working while I was driving it. Also notice the alternator light stays on sometimes. Thinking I might have to check that too. Changed the oil today. Still waiting on the valve cover gasket go show up cuz it’s leaking pretty bad. 

On 10/26/2018 at 11:28 PM, datzenmike said:

Try switching the hazard switch on and off a dozen times to polish the contacts.

Now turn the turn signal on (with the ignition on) and move the hazard switch position from on to off slowly. Does the turn signal begin flashing?

Turn signals n hazards now all work. Tried the same technique with the dome light n it worked too????

Here are pics of the car I took today. Gave her a wash n polish. The door molding got damaged so we took it off to try to fix it. Got the 240z steering wheel in there. I love that thing!! Cannot wait to get some new wheels n tires for her and drop the ride height a bit

43 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Hazards should work without the ignition on. Turn signals have to have the ignition on.

 

Key on. Try working the turn signal L&R to clean the contacts.

I’ll mess with it again tomorrow. Again nothing works with the car not running which is probably the fusible link that i haven’t fixed yet...and speaking of that again.... I was told the fusible link itself is good...it’s just the connector the links the wires from the battery terminal is melted. Maybe I can cut those off n get some spade connectors in fix it. I’m not confident at all with wiring. That’s why I’m stalling to fix it but I know I have to. 

BTW I got some jdm front side markers/indicators. I’m assuming they’re wired different. How do I get em to work?

17 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Try switching the hazard switch on and off a dozen times to polish the contacts.

Now turn the turn signal on (with the ignition on) and move the hazard switch position from on to off slowly. Does the turn signal begin flashing?

Ok I tried it a couple times and the hazards came on. But the turn signals didn’t work tho. Continued to play with the hazard switch n the amp light started flashing too. Sometimes when I turn on the hazard switch one side will work n then the other side will work after...then both side will flash again. I wonder if the contacts need to be cleaned? Car still has to be running for any of em to work 

Figured out why the brake lamps were staying on. Just had to adjust the switch at the brake pedal. So that problem is solved. Tried switching out the flasher for the hazard/turn signal but still doesn’t work. Drove it to work this morning. Im pretty stoked. Still have a lot of stuff to do including replace the valve cover gasket, replace all tires, get the electrics sorted, change all fluids hoses n belts etc...got a 240z steering wheel for it as well??

Will get a multimeter n start checking around the car. Everything except the hazards/signals turn on only when the car is running and the tail/brake lamps stay on. So something is definitely wrong. One connector on the fusible link is melted. Was told it’s from battery acid. It still work cuz the car starts

Well good news. Turns out the valves were  indeed stuck. My neighbor had his mechanic buddy come n tap on em a couple times n they freed up. Adjusted the valves cold then she fired right up n purred like a kitten. We let it warm up n adjusted the valves hot. No valve train noise or anything. Finally running like it should. Didn’t drive it yet cuz still gotta finish up the wheel bearing job. I’m a happy boy tonight??

I decided to turn over the engine by hand n check out those 2 valves n looks to me like they’re stuck. I can see that the rocker arms take long to go back in the up position. Haven’t had time to get the head off cuz of work but hope to have it off by this weekend

Oh man don’t say that. That means I’ll need a head??. That sucks

56 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

If one or more tops are lower then a valve seat may have fallen out and the valve can't close. So if you re-set the lash you will be extending the valve lift deeper into the engine and when the piston comes up to TDC it hits the valve and forces it towards closed (which it can't) and the the push rod bends

Well definitely gotta pull the head n see if that’s what happened. So if a valve seat fell out how do I put one back there? Has to go to a machine shop then?

Update... so we put in the pushrods and adjusted all the valves n everything. When we cranked over the engine the same pushrods were trying to come out from under the arms again. So we adjusted the valves again on those cylinders but the same thing happened n one of the pushrods got bent. So looks like we gotta dig deeper and see what’s going on. At this point I just feel like shoving another engine in there

Yeah I’m already looking around on Craigslist n eBay. Been checking out carpart.com too. Found a few 4 speed boxes

10 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Easiest is to find a junk car with a manual trans. Everything needed is in it. Such as...

 

Manual drive shaft may be different length, I don't know.

Transmission mount/cross member

Pedal box

Master cylinder (and push rod)

Hard line

Flex line

Slave cylinder (and push rod.

Clutch arm and dust boot

Shifter and dust boot.

Flywheel

Clutch and pressure plate (though a good ides to replace them)

Release bearing collar.

Wiring for the reverse lights.

 

Need to get a pilot bearing for the end of the crankshaft.

Yeah that’s a lotta stuff. Even worse for me is here in South Dakota these cars are pretty much non existent lol. Almost positive it’s the only 210 in the whole state. So finding a parts car here is almost impossible. I’ll have to get stuff piece by piece til I have everything. The guys at the local NAPA had no idea what a Datsun 210 is. Had to show em a pic lol

True but it'll be more fun with a manual. I was actually looking for a manual car but got this one anyway. Thought to myself I could alway convert it to manual. Don't mind just getting  a 4 speed box. 

Well I had a good look under the car today and it looks like they might have replaced all the rear shocks n front struts. Under the car is pretty tidy. I'm glad I got a Cali car. I drained the gas and holy smokes it was really nasty...there wasn't any rust or debris but the gas was really yellow and smelled putrid. Looked like urine straight up lol. Never seen anything like that. We blew out the gas lines too with compressed air.

Hey btw the thing I want to do more than anything else is swap the auto trans for a manual. I've been looking for a 5 speed box but no luck so I'll have to settle for a 4 speed. Also can't seem to find a pedal box...can I just swap out the pedals themselves or do I need the whole pedal box? N can a b210 pedal box work in a b310? Trying to make a list of what I need for the swap

I think I’m leaning towards the 280zx struts. Seems like a better option for me. Also want to get a set of 280zx snow flake wheels which I see will be a challenge to find(also looking at 300zx z31 wheels). 

I think imma concentrate on getting the car running n driving first before I do all this. I’m just getting excited n thinking about everything. Just gotta take everything in stride. 

Wow Man U really know ur stuff. Wish I lived close by...I’d probably be at ur place all da time lol. As long as it doesn’t involve welding i suppose I can try it. I was looking into 280zx struts that’s everyone’s talking about but i can’t weld. So I was just going to cut a coil n a half out for now until I get something better. 

My 83 Chevy truck is lowered the right way with spindles n drop coils n drop shocks n it rides n handles pretty good. Still have to get proper shocks for the rear(just has flip kit). My old 74 c10 just had cut coils and it rode like shit so I understand the importance of doing stuff that right way n not half assed. Wish i had more fabrication skills or else I would do a lot more myself. 

I read a post from PumpkinDave about using 510 springs and cutting em to lower the rear. Is that a good option?

9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Tapered roller bearings, (there are an inner and an outer) can handle more load and axial (side) thrust with less wear. Ball bearings are not as good for side loading but they are cheaper and run with less friction.

Oh ok gotcha. I ordered the inner seal late last night. Good thing u mentioned that to me. I was thinking that it came with the inner bearing kit I ordered. Hopefully it comes soon. Was thinking while since I got the car jacked up I might as well take cut a coil or 2 off n drop the car. I know this is the engine section so I won’t post more about that stuff

Awesome. Thanks for the info. The wheel was pretty wobbly. That’s how bad they were. Glad I caught that before I started driving it. Wonder why they use roller bearings instead of ball bearings like on my Chevy truck...