sunny310
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Posts posted by sunny310
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3 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:
If you do the ka swap install the 5 fsw571c. The original Bs can't handle the ka power plus there are 10x the number of them In the junkyard.
What vehicle did this trans come in?
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Somebody doesnt like carbs lol
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13 minutes ago, datzenmike said:
No matter the engine you will probably need to mod or flip the front cross member. The A10 is simply L series ready, or close to it.
With engines, if you have the choice, go larger displacement. Smaller stroke have to rev higher and work harder to make the same power a larger one makes all day with no sweat. They also make power lower down in the RPM range where most people drive 99.999% of the time.
Automatics should not be dismissed out of hand. They are easier to drive, actually there's nothing to do but steer, gas to go brake to slow. They never miss a shift. They are always in the correct gear. They never get tired of shifting. They are easier on drive line components and the chassis. They are great if you have a physical handicap. They do, however, remove you from some of the connection with your vehicle. Perceived automatic 'sluggishnes's can be corrected for by increasing the differential ratio, installing a higher stall speed torque converter, adjusting the line pressure and modulator for faster harder engagements and raise the shift points. If I was keen on an L series automatic I would get a 4.375 differential, a L471B over drive 4 speed automatic from a Maxima, the torque converter from a 280zx turbo and modify the valve body..... but I digress.
Well you just made a good case for the KA and L20B...as for the auto trans Im the type of guy who loves to shift gears so manual trans is a must. The auto trans in my car does work well though...even tho its a bit lazy
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3 hours ago, Tom1200 said:
You would simple use the truck transmission.
Don't overthink it to much, even if someone gave you a free L16 (universally unloved) it wouldn't be a bad thing, you could bolt on a Weber DGAV, header, clean up the ports, run a mild cam and end up with a motor that had a solid 30hp more. Obviously the bigger the motor the better but there really isn't a wrong answer here.
You'd have to check Datsun1200.com but there may be an L-series crossmember that bolts into your car. There is 1200s and B210s had a L-series crossmember so something from a Stanza/A10 or 200SX. (If I have a chance I'll look)
Again I like the simplicity of the carbureted motor, if you use a matchbox style dizzy in the L series you won't even have to rewire anything.
If I decide to go the L series route I would want an L18 or L20b over the L16 cuz more displacement. How hard is it to find an A10 crossmember though? Ive been looking online try to find one but no luck. Starting to look into engines n transmissions and a pedal box cuz my car is an auto
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25 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:
The pickup KA is easier. The car block has a cast in flange at the bellhousing that is very bulky, and the car block also has a main bearing girdle, which makes oil pan mods near impossible. You can always swap a car intake onto a truck motor for the better induction and nicer look.
An LS in my K30 would be like lipstick on a pig, but I still want it. If for no other reason, I'd have EFI, which would be stupid simple to keep running (I drive it only a handful of times a year.)
Oh alright kool. What about the transmission? Which one should i use?
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13 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:
I am on the fence with an LS for my K30...
An L20B with dual carbs would look more appropriate, but the 12 valve KA would be super simple to swap in too. The oil pan and motor mounts are about the only things you'd have to modify. And the trans crossmember too.
Do it!...thats the best thing i did to my truck. Tons of power n torque...lots of fun. Which KA is better for the swap..240sx or Hardbody?
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8 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:
That brings up another point. The engine almost never goes in and stays in on an engine swap. It goes in the first time to measure for engine mounts, then back out, then in again with the new engine mounts, then back out again. An engine may go in and out a dozen times before everything is fit and fabbed.
Wiring is done on the engine, out of the car/truck after a mock up of how the wiring will lay out in the engine bay, and through the firewall. I like doing my engine wiring on a massive rolling cart or on the chassis while the body is off.
Brings back memories of my first 5.3 swap in my old 74 C10 truck It was fun but frustrating at the same time...got the same swap in my 83 C10 now
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1 hour ago, Tom1200 said:
This may be a silly question given the desire to have EFI, but why not just go with a simple carburetor / carbureted engine. You may lose a bit of mileage and it may take a minute or two longer to fully warm up / run flawlessly on cold mornings. Besides the wiring you're also going to have to do the plumbing for the FI. Having to put 60hrs and or $2000 less in a project is a huge benefit.
So back to your choices; if your not going to be building a performance motor go with the KA, you can find a wrecked vehicle with all the parts you need for next to nothing. Real world the bigger motor with broader powerband will nicer.
I get wanting to swap out the A14 as 75hp in a 2000lb car is rather anemic, not to mention getting any power out of them requires revving the nuts off them. If my coupe was a street car rather than a race car I would have swapped out the A-series motor long ago.
The L series or even Z series engine is nearly a direct bolt in and with very mild tweaks would be a 40-50hp increase in the car. With that kind of increase the car would feel like a F#**%ing Saturn Rocket........well at least for the first 10 minutes (damn car poeple can never have enough power).
To be honest I wasnt considering the KA and SR swap until recently when I started seeing videos on youtube...plus a buddy of mine kept suggesting it to me. I was actually going to just do an L20B swap...which is still in the back of my mind. A nice L20B with some dual webers headers and a 5 speed would be fine by me...if i can find me a good engine n trans I may just do that instead. Finding one out here in the Dakotas will be a challenge.
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10 hours ago, Icehouse said:
Wiring is super easy. It's cool wiring specialties does harnesses. I'm to cheap for that though.
Wiring is too much for me to handle. I saw how much wiring was involved on my 5.3 c10 swap and had my buddy do it for me instead lol. Dont really know how to fabricate either so I'll need help with that(engine and trans mounts)...everything else i can handle...i hope lol
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Whatever engine I choose to go with won't be modified much at all. Don't want too much power that would get me killed lol. A nice intake and exhaust and a dyno tune should be fine. Not trying to build a race car...just a fun little cruiser
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1 hour ago, Icehouse said:
SR20DE!!!! 1500ish on ebay. Way cheaper then rebuilding a KA. The way the power comes on feels better IMO as well.
Yup I saw that. That's not a bad deal at all. How hard is it to do all the wiring?
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8 minutes ago, datzenmike said:
The '97? and up D21 Hardbody 2 wd with 71C 5 speed would be perfect. The Car EFI intake looks cleaner and the EFI harness is separate from the car harness, the truck is integrated into the main harness and hard to salvage. The truck oil pan won't fit any car chassis so... ]2eDeYe has engine brackets that might also work on the 210.
Can a 240sx oil pan fit on a hardbody KA or no? Also what else would I need for the swap? I’m trying to make a list of parts so I can start gathering stuff
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I actually did consider the L20B swap but I want the fuel injection and the power. 155hp in that little beast will be more than enough for a little street machine weighing 2000lbs. I see the KA has good torque too compared to an SR20DE. But the SR is a lighter engine so considering that too. Might want to go boost later down the road. I would go with an SR20DET but don’t want to pay over 3k. That’s more than it cost to do my 5.3 swap in my C10 truck
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Considering an engine swap for my 79 210. Just want you guys opinion on which engine would be better cost wise and how also difficulty. Will be a budget swap...that's why I'm not considering a turbo SR. Anything will be better than my A14 and auto lol
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Guess I can add mine now. Here’s my 79
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Front suspension is stock. Found the same wheel but 15x7 and +20. Will that fit?
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Thinking about getting these instead. 15x8 +20 offset. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MST-MT-13-15x8-4x100-114-3-20-SILVER-MESH-MACHINE-LIP-W-RIVET-TUNER-WHEELS-SET/322418872642?hash=item4b11a99142:g:PCoAAOSwcrZb5igB
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On November 9, 2018 at 10:42 PM, dukerollo said:
Not in that pic. They are now. I have an Eastwood fender roller and had to be pretty aggressive. I'm not running any real stretch in my tires though.
What size tires u running?
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On 11/8/2018 at 5:16 PM, dukerollo said:
If you aren’t afraid of rolling/pulling your fenders they should fit fine.
They should fit about like these, they had about 1/4” poke.
Are those fenders rolled?
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Found these wheels on Summit.com n was wondering if these will fit my 210 or if they would be a bit too wide. They’re Aero 30 wheels 13x7 with -12.7 offset. Link below...
Also found some used z31 4 lug wheels on eBay for about the same price as 4 of these Aeros...they do have some curb rash but not too bad...link below
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So I figured it out. The heater has a bypass hose. Those disconnected hoses are for the heater. Guess I’ll have to check the heater core n see if it’s leaky or clogged or something.
Also found out the alternator might be going out. Have to order a new one
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Well it’s a California car. Maybe they just disabled it somehow
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Went digging again n found another disconnected hose on the driver side. Goes in the firewall behind the carb. It looks like it’s supposed to go to the water pump but there is already another heater hose running from the water pump to the back of the cylinder head. All the other hoses going into the firewall are from the a/c compressor. Found another hose hanging from under the dash on the passenger side as well. Don’t know what that’s for either.
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These are the 2 hoses in question. You can see one is cut n the other is just disconnected. Been looking to see where they supposed to go but I can't tell
jəkZ (ジークス) 79 210
in B210
Posted
Nice wagon bro!!