quadub

Took the truck in today for a new exhaust. Stopped by A1 muffler and brake in morgan hill. john is an awesome dude. Made an appointment, and he had me in and out in less than an hour. super happy with the sound, and the truck even has a little more kick in it. Took a photo of the underside while it was on the lift and got a much better look at my rear trans leak. pretty sure i can drop the driveshaft and replace it that way. at least praying as pulling the trans at this point would be a pain. At work next to a buddys 92 Pickup.

This weekend... - filed and bled cooling system. this was a scary thing for me, as was putting oil in it for the first time since taking the motor apart. keep in mind i am no mechanic and am learning as i go so the fear of splashing fluid all over the floor because i missed something is real. never the less, got it filled up and bled(at least i hope). after getting the cooling system dialed, I changed out the tie rods and center link. these were extremely worn in the truck. i measured legnth of the centerlink as well as counting threads before installing...some help that was...to be continued. Once getting all of the steering components installed i bled the brakes and couldn't wait to take her out on a test drive!!! SKRRRT SSSKKKRRRTTTT SSKKKRRTTTT down the road i went. even after measuring the alignment was wayyyyy off! i want to take it in to get a proper alignment but for the time being i hopped on youtube and did an at home adjustment and must say, it made all the difference! extremely happy with the way she is running mechanically now, would love to have someone that knows what they are doing take a look, but i guess ill have to wait till the next meet, haha. After a couple drives around town and a 20 minute freeway ride, i parked her in the garage over night to see no leaks!! lets pray it stays that way. next to come... - new exhaust - rear transmission seal

@gene knight, I made a couple extras. DM me your address and i send one your way.

Got the starter, alternator and radiator hooked up tonight. unfortunately my stock rad cap doesn't work on the koyo so going to run by the store tomorrow and grab one. Got the truck running without the cooling system just long enough to make sure the alternator was charging....and that i could get it to start again. haha. in addition to those things i soaked the fuse box in vinegar overnight and scrubbed it with a toothbrush. got some fresh fuses and replaced some of the connectors. also designed a sticker for inside the fusebox to replace the one that was in there. also: my fuse box had a 30A fuse on the 1st and 3rd, this doesn't agree with the manual, anyone have any idea as to why someone would up the amps? lastly, ordered a new pcv valve as my old one was rusted siezed. In addition, i got a hose and got those installed as well. Radiator cap tomorrow and i should be able to take her for a spin. Before: After: PCV

decided the next thing i wanted to check out was the motor. not for any reason other than the fact that it had a couple spots that were leaking i wanted to fix and bought a complete gasket set. decided to paint some things while out of the truck, including the block while it was in the truck. still in the process of putting everything back together. waiting on a radiator, alternator, and starter and i can button her up! -----Before !!!!! ---AFTER!!

@wayno, thanks for the info, i was told it was a 520, but noticed that it was slightly different.

Got the outside of the truck polished up a bit. did a 24hr soak with mguires no.7 showroom polish, then polished it off. came out great and didn't remove much paint at all.

a slowly leaking water pump, as well as my temps getting up there when on the freeway led me to replaced the water pump. got the asin brand with cast propellers. found out it was leaking because one of the bolts was stripped out, and the P.O. kept it in there with some rtv. Got the hole cleaned out and tapped it 1 size larger. new pump in and looking way cleaner than the rest of the truck. In addition to the water pump, i pulled out the dash. the dash topper was beyond cracked and i had a spare 520 metal topper so i got that recovered. got the dash itself sandblasted, repainted and got everything reinstalled. and then, did what we all hate doing, and overpaid for something that serves little purpose. i forked over the $$ and bought a glove box lock to replace my broken plastic one.

Next up on the list was to rebuild the carb. had a heavy hesitation upon heavy acceleration since I got the truck and being that it sat on a farm for years before i got it, was sure the insides could use a good clean. got everything cleaned and a new accelerator pump installed, it drives much better except when warming up it still has a slight lag (im also running a manual choke with no chose cable so maybe that could be it? HUGE shout out to @CARSBIKESANDCOFFEE for the rebuild video and clear instructions. also got a 240z steering wheel in pretty good shape for a steel , so replaced the old cracked stock one. and last but not least on this edition, i got in and replaced the shifter bushings, which always make such a huge difference. it only grinds int o3rd sometimes now!

Been a while. Been making progress on the truck, just havent had much time to post about it. 1st big update is weatherstripping. got all the door and window weatherstripping/felt runners replaced and it made such a huge difference. you dont realize how annoying rattling windows are until they aren't rattling anymore. also naturally, with replacing the window felt and corner winder rubber, i had to completely tear out the insides of the door, so i cleaned and lubed the lock mechanism as well as the window regulator.

Had a productive 4th, got some things acomplished on the truck. 1. Changed out the clutch master cylinder 2. changed out the clutch slave cylinder 3. reindexted the torsion bars 1 spline 4. installed 4' lowering blocks 5. installed new shocks front and rear(kyb gas adjust) 6. swapped wheels over from the other truck 7. installed the bday gift from the girlfriend. a new shiftknob. thing is a donker on the 521 long shinny shaft, but it is way better than what i had. BEFORE: AFTER:

Ihaven't thought of a name yet, but i got started on "it" over the last couple of days. first thing that had to go was the rear bumper, never did like those aesthetically. if anyone wants it its yours for free, just pick it up. next i changed the oil and did a coolant flush. limped it to the gas station and got some fresh gas in her. made some minor tweaks and she was ready for a test drive! all seemed to go well except the fact that it bogs on quick acceleration. accelerator pump? it has a webber carb. ordered a clutch master and slave, shocks front and rear, accelerator cable, belt, radiator hoses, and door/window seals. excited for the first run of parts. After a 30 minute drive... Previous owner shenanigans

Welp, I officially have a problem. Picked up another 521 last weekend up in bakersfield. This one has been sitting for the last couple years, but has a fairly straight untouched body unlike my other truck. Plan is to swap the dash, wheels and better small parts from my other truck onto this one and possible even swap motors as the motor on my peasoup 521 was recently rebuilt and very strong. got the coolant and oil changed out, as well as bleeding the brakes and clutch. both clutch master and slave are leaking. will attack those early. mobil gas station locations

Thanks for the love guys, the reason for attacking the fender is that there was a crack in the bondo that looked pretty bad. popped off a chunk with a screwdriver and well, theres no turning back now. also made some modifications to the shifter. tightened the fork up in a vice, and replaced the cotter pins with nuts and bolts. I just wanted to get it mocked up, so used bolts from around the shop, but plan to replace them with zinc coated hardware. i also replaced one of the flat washers on the upper picot with a lock washer which helped increase tension without binding it. the shifter slop has gone from the size of a basketball to the size of a softball. magical! Here are some pics of the fender progress. Here are a couple pictures of the shifter

Recently picked up a 521. This will be my second one, which i am hoping to make more progress on than the last one i owned. A move to the bay area forced me to sell the last one, which i obviously regret at this point. Well enough of the nonsense, here are the pictures. There was some known bondo on the fenders which i plan to attack early on. well see how bad it is. I am still learning as i go, so excuse the dumb questions, ill try to use the search button as best as possible.

got a couple updates, got the speedometer portion of the cluster put in and installed in the car along with a new speedo cable as well. Took it for a test drive and the slower speeds seem very high, but the freeway speeds seem to be pretty close. other than that, all went well, all gauges and lights work. Now for the bad news. i started hearing a "clicking" coming from the pasenger side of the engine bay near the firewall.(started before the cluster swap). after installing the new cluster parts, on the test drive the ignition switch was flickering. did some research, and found that it is the voltage regulator. Now im just curious as to what would cause this to go bad? just to be clear, it is the farthest right box making the noise, and i can even feel it if i put my hand to the outside.

no, i was talking about #8, my moog parts number matches the one you provided as well. Thanks for clearing that up!!

mind if i ask how you installed the control arm bushings? i got some recently, and wasn't sure if i could cut the old ones out and push new ones in, or have a machine shop do it?

that would be swesome! keep me posted, i would much rather replace just the speedo part if i can get my hands on it as the unit i have is pretty clean and in really good shape.

ok guys, got a couple of updates but really just more questions... one of the isues noted when i purchased the car was that the spedometer cable had snapped and so the speedo and odo were not working. PO describes the needle going eratic and eventually the cable snapping. there was never a needle visible for the speedo, but another local datsuner said that it may have just falled and be hidden. I got a new speedo cable a week ago or so and finally got to putting it in. install was pretty straight forward, not as complicated as i would have expected. once i got the cable in and test drove it.....nothing. i pulled the cluster( thanks to DanielC's recent post) and started to disassemble it, most of which was pretty self explanitory, screw there, attatches there, this does this, blah blah. what i discovered, was that the speedo needle had been snapped in 2 places, and the mechanism controlling the speedo and odo seemed a bit off. im pretty sure it was damaged but thats where the questions come it, got as detailed pictures as i could. so the question is... am i screwed or can i fix it? the temp and fuel gauges work perfectly and all pins on the main connector are in perfect shape so i dont want to dump it if i dont have to. other idea was to run aftermarket gauges and make a custom housing but just a thought. and one of the urban camping trip last weekend. yea, urban camping...i made it up... made a bed in the back from our couch cushions,found some nice views, and parked it for the night.

just the detail on the dash removal is much appreciated. i was surprised how hard it was to find a detailed how to on removing the dash. awesome to see the tuck get used like it deserves to be. keep it up!

so, interesting fact, i ordered the beck arnley master cylinder under the impression it was made it japan, but it clearly says made in taiwan on the box. lol. not a big deal if it works, but figures i would let everyone else know. I got my rear shocks in yesterday. The ride quality has drastically improved, but i still need to replace just about every bushing on the front end. going to give a nissan dealer a call in a couple days and see if i can get those hoses i need and any bushings they still have. anyone in sac reccommend a nissan dealer? The camper shell I wasnt originally planning on getting a camper shell, but i got it for $80. I am a bike racer and mechanic, and many of my weekends are spent out of town at races. The camper shell was just too good of a deal and makes the perfect weekend race day vehicle. the inside seems to be a laminate material with a wood frame? not too sure. some of the laminate interior is peeling and i would like to refurnish it if anyone has any tips or tricks up their sleeve. other than that, the camper is in awesome shape and even has a dome light i can connect if i want when i figure it out. Q:Is that head a 210 or 219? The spot where it is cracked shows the number, but I can't really make it out. If it's a 219, that's a score. If it's a 210, you could have it welded, but there are better heads out there. A: its just a 210 :( you got me excited for a minute. i will probably run this engine for a while until i learn a little more. the long term plan is to build an l20b w/ a 5 speed. nothing crazy, but strong a reliable.

1st update: ok, got some excitement! both good and bad. replaced the clutch master, slave and hose yesterday. most of it was pretty straight forward except for adjusting the clutch slave cylinder. For this i was finally able to find a video that " Mklotz" made, which can be found here: http://s88.photobucket.com/user/mklotz70/media/How%20to/Clutch%20Slave/100_5648.mp4.html after a few test drives and slight adjustments to the slave and the clutch is feeling better than ever. i noticed a slight drip on the bottom of the slave and it is looking like the inside of the hose is leaking? in the picture below, you can see the wet spot between the metal fitting and rubber hose. the bleed nipple on the slave also didnt fit very snug, and the threads seems to be leaking a little. both of these parts are centric. is the warranty process with rock auto a pain? This is how i "bench bled" the master cylinder, seemed to work pretty well. 2nd update: I ordered new kyb gas adjust shocks all around. in the process of getting the front ones in right now, and hoping to get the rears in today as well(im updating this in class). my currents shocks were all pretty blown and i just got an awesome highlander camper shell for the truck and new shocks were neccesarry. the book says to put weight on the wheel and finish tightening the shocks in the front, but my truck is pretty low and i dont think i can get my hand in there with the wheel on, should i just jack up the lower control arm? thanks for the help guys!! learning as i go, and learning a lot to say the least. Photos of the camper shell coming soon. want to get the dirt and dust cleaned off before i show it off ;P got it for 80$$ and couldnt be happier with it.

Hey Everyone, had some questions about ordering parts on nissanparts.cc. when i type in the part # for the water hose, it comes up, but says the part has been superceded, which means its slightly different than oem but still works correct? I have heard storied of people ordering from these sites and getting emails later that the part is NLA and the refund process was a hassle. Really just looking for most of the hoses and what not on there. most of my hoses seem dated and could use replacing. On second note, with the engine bay cleaned up and most of the oil wiped away, i was able to locate the root of my main leak, which is not the head gasket which i originally expected, but it is the Timing cover gasket. going to start looking into that and what i should do, also notices that front drivers side head mount is cracked. its just where the lip for the screw to go through is. doesnt look to be affecting anything now but does worry me for the future. LEAK SPOT: CRACK when replacing the heater hoses in my last post, i noticed that the metal hose that goes in front of the block was not held down by anything. this caused it to rotate forward and make contact with my fan. no motor running luckily, but could have been bad. does anyone know the best way to secure it? last queston, is that i noticed that a bolt from my head timing cover was missing!!! no leaking yet but would like to get one in there asap. anyone happen to know thread pitch and size? would be much appreciated. as always, thanks for the help guys. Learning as i go.