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About quadub

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  • Birthday 07/01/1990

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  1. quadub

    another 521

    Had a productive 4th, got some things acomplished on the truck. 1. Changed out the clutch master cylinder 2. changed out the clutch slave cylinder 3. reindexted the torsion bars 1 spline 4. installed 4' lowering blocks 5. installed new shocks front and rear(kyb gas adjust) 6. swapped wheels over from the other truck 7. installed the bday gift from the girlfriend. a new shiftknob. thing is a donker on the 521 long shinny shaft, but it is way better than what i had. BEFORE: AFTER:
  2. quadub

    another 521

    Ihaven't thought of a name yet, but i got started on "it" over the last couple of days. first thing that had to go was the rear bumper, never did like those aesthetically. if anyone wants it its yours for free, just pick it up. next i changed the oil and did a coolant flush. limped it to the gas station and got some fresh gas in her. made some minor tweaks and she was ready for a test drive! all seemed to go well except the fact that it bogs on quick acceleration. accelerator pump? it has a webber carb. ordered a clutch master and slave, shocks front and rear, accelerator cable, belt, radiator hoses, and door/window seals. excited for the first run of parts. After a 30 minute drive... Previous owner shenanigans
  3. quadub

    another 521

    Welp, I officially have a problem. Picked up another 521 last weekend up in bakersfield. This one has been sitting for the last couple years, but has a fairly straight untouched body unlike my other truck. Plan is to swap the dash, wheels and better small parts from my other truck onto this one and possible even swap motors as the motor on my peasoup 521 was recently rebuilt and very strong. got the coolant and oil changed out, as well as bleeding the brakes and clutch. both clutch master and slave are leaking. will attack those early. mobil gas station locations
  4. quadub

    pea soup 521

    Thanks for the love guys, the reason for attacking the fender is that there was a crack in the bondo that looked pretty bad. popped off a chunk with a screwdriver and well, theres no turning back now. also made some modifications to the shifter. tightened the fork up in a vice, and replaced the cotter pins with nuts and bolts. I just wanted to get it mocked up, so used bolts from around the shop, but plan to replace them with zinc coated hardware. i also replaced one of the flat washers on the upper picot with a lock washer which helped increase tension without binding it. the shifter slop has gone from the size of a basketball to the size of a softball. magical! Here are some pics of the fender progress. Here are a couple pictures of the shifter
  5. Recently picked up a 521. This will be my second one, which i am hoping to make more progress on than the last one i owned. A move to the bay area forced me to sell the last one, which i obviously regret at this point. Well enough of the nonsense, here are the pictures. There was some known bondo on the fenders which i plan to attack early on. well see how bad it is. I am still learning as i go, so excuse the dumb questions, ill try to use the search button as best as possible.
  6. Time Left: 4 days and 19 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a right side fender for my datsun 521. i currently have the rectangular turn signal at the bottom of the fender.


    Morgan Hill, California - US

  7. got a couple updates, got the speedometer portion of the cluster put in and installed in the car along with a new speedo cable as well. Took it for a test drive and the slower speeds seem very high, but the freeway speeds seem to be pretty close. other than that, all went well, all gauges and lights work. Now for the bad news. i started hearing a "clicking" coming from the pasenger side of the engine bay near the firewall.(started before the cluster swap). after installing the new cluster parts, on the test drive the ignition switch was flickering. did some research, and found that it is the voltage regulator. Now im just curious as to what would cause this to go bad? just to be clear, it is the farthest right box making the noise, and i can even feel it if i put my hand to the outside.
  8. no, i was talking about #8, my moog parts number matches the one you provided as well. Thanks for clearing that up!!
  9. mind if i ask how you installed the control arm bushings? i got some recently, and wasn't sure if i could cut the old ones out and push new ones in, or have a machine shop do it?
  10. that would be swesome! keep me posted, i would much rather replace just the speedo part if i can get my hands on it as the unit i have is pretty clean and in really good shape.
  11. ok guys, got a couple of updates but really just more questions... one of the isues noted when i purchased the car was that the spedometer cable had snapped and so the speedo and odo were not working. PO describes the needle going eratic and eventually the cable snapping. there was never a needle visible for the speedo, but another local datsuner said that it may have just falled and be hidden. I got a new speedo cable a week ago or so and finally got to putting it in. install was pretty straight forward, not as complicated as i would have expected. once i got the cable in and test drove it.....nothing. i pulled the cluster( thanks to DanielC's recent post) and started to disassemble it, most of which was pretty self explanitory, screw there, attatches there, this does this, blah blah. what i discovered, was that the speedo needle had been snapped in 2 places, and the mechanism controlling the speedo and odo seemed a bit off. im pretty sure it was damaged but thats where the questions come it, got as detailed pictures as i could. so the question is... am i screwed or can i fix it? the temp and fuel gauges work perfectly and all pins on the main connector are in perfect shape so i dont want to dump it if i dont have to. other idea was to run aftermarket gauges and make a custom housing but just a thought. and one of the urban camping trip last weekend. yea, urban camping...i made it up... made a bed in the back from our couch cushions,found some nice views, and parked it for the night.
  12. just the detail on the dash removal is much appreciated. i was surprised how hard it was to find a detailed how to on removing the dash. awesome to see the tuck get used like it deserves to be. keep it up!
  13. so, interesting fact, i ordered the beck arnley master cylinder under the impression it was made it japan, but it clearly says made in taiwan on the box. lol. not a big deal if it works, but figures i would let everyone else know. I got my rear shocks in yesterday. The ride quality has drastically improved, but i still need to replace just about every bushing on the front end. going to give a nissan dealer a call in a couple days and see if i can get those hoses i need and any bushings they still have. anyone in sac reccommend a nissan dealer? The camper shell I wasnt originally planning on getting a camper shell, but i got it for $80. I am a bike racer and mechanic, and many of my weekends are spent out of town at races. The camper shell was just too good of a deal and makes the perfect weekend race day vehicle. the inside seems to be a laminate material with a wood frame? not too sure. some of the laminate interior is peeling and i would like to refurnish it if anyone has any tips or tricks up their sleeve. other than that, the camper is in awesome shape and even has a dome light i can connect if i want when i figure it out. Q:Is that head a 210 or 219? The spot where it is cracked shows the number, but I can't really make it out. If it's a 219, that's a score. If it's a 210, you could have it welded, but there are better heads out there. A: its just a 210 :( you got me excited for a minute. i will probably run this engine for a while until i learn a little more. the long term plan is to build an l20b w/ a 5 speed. nothing crazy, but strong a reliable.
  14. 1st update: ok, got some excitement! both good and bad. replaced the clutch master, slave and hose yesterday. most of it was pretty straight forward except for adjusting the clutch slave cylinder. For this i was finally able to find a video that " Mklotz" made, which can be found here: http://s88.photobucket.com/user/mklotz70/media/How%20to/Clutch%20Slave/100_5648.mp4.html after a few test drives and slight adjustments to the slave and the clutch is feeling better than ever. i noticed a slight drip on the bottom of the slave and it is looking like the inside of the hose is leaking? in the picture below, you can see the wet spot between the metal fitting and rubber hose. the bleed nipple on the slave also didnt fit very snug, and the threads seems to be leaking a little. both of these parts are centric. is the warranty process with rock auto a pain? This is how i "bench bled" the master cylinder, seemed to work pretty well. 2nd update: I ordered new kyb gas adjust shocks all around. in the process of getting the front ones in right now, and hoping to get the rears in today as well(im updating this in class). my currents shocks were all pretty blown and i just got an awesome highlander camper shell for the truck and new shocks were neccesarry. the book says to put weight on the wheel and finish tightening the shocks in the front, but my truck is pretty low and i dont think i can get my hand in there with the wheel on, should i just jack up the lower control arm? thanks for the help guys!! learning as i go, and learning a lot to say the least. Photos of the camper shell coming soon. want to get the dirt and dust cleaned off before i show it off ;P got it for 80$$ and couldnt be happier with it.
  15. Hey Everyone, had some questions about ordering parts on nissanparts.cc. when i type in the part # for the water hose, it comes up, but says the part has been superceded, which means its slightly different than oem but still works correct? I have heard storied of people ordering from these sites and getting emails later that the part is NLA and the refund process was a hassle. Really just looking for most of the hoses and what not on there. most of my hoses seem dated and could use replacing. On second note, with the engine bay cleaned up and most of the oil wiped away, i was able to locate the root of my main leak, which is not the head gasket which i originally expected, but it is the Timing cover gasket. going to start looking into that and what i should do, also notices that front drivers side head mount is cracked. its just where the lip for the screw to go through is. doesnt look to be affecting anything now but does worry me for the future. LEAK SPOT: CRACK when replacing the heater hoses in my last post, i noticed that the metal hose that goes in front of the block was not held down by anything. this caused it to rotate forward and make contact with my fan. no motor running luckily, but could have been bad. does anyone know the best way to secure it? last queston, is that i noticed that a bolt from my head timing cover was missing!!! no leaking yet but would like to get one in there asap. anyone happen to know thread pitch and size? would be much appreciated. as always, thanks for the help guys. Learning as i go.
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