76 Sedan Coupe electrical Gremlins

[Signal12]

Afternoon Folks...

 

I got the motor dialed in with the Weber 32/36, I got all the leaks stopped, air pump removed, vacuum lines sealed, brakes actually stopping the car, e-brake working and some other loose ends.... and the new wheels mounted.... but now for what I have been dreading... electrical..

 

When i power on the car, the rear brake lights work, the pedal is missing a small grommet to turn them off when the pedal isn't pressed. My issue is that nothing else works. I keep looking at the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual, but it's foreign to me and I'm unsure where to start. All the fuses under the driver side steering wheel are good. Harness is good, no cuts or burns. I tested the headlights, they work with direct power from the battery. 

 

Any recommendations on how to start diagnosing?

[datzenmike]

Brake lights do not need the engine running to work. or do you mean when you connect the battery? Tape a stack of pennies on the brake pedal to get the rear lights off or the battery will drain over night. Fix it better later.

 

Headlights?

Horn?

Interior light?

 

Does the starter turn the engine?

 

Does the ignition turn the heater radio and wiper on?

[Signal12]

Correct on the taillights, I just haven't added a small grommet or pennies to keep it pushed it. I just disconnect the battery when I'm not working on it. She's not fully road ready as of yet. 

 

Headlights? Won't turn on, checked for power to the wiring, but nothing

Horn? Works

Interior light? Doesn't turn on. 

 

Does the starter turn the engine? Engine fires right up.. no issues at all...

 

Does the ignition turn the heater radio and wiper on?  No heater, Radio or wipers...

 

 

[datzenmike]

I have almost no info on the B-210.

 

Try the fuses. Do not trust them simply by looking at them. Sometimes just moving them or removing them cleans and makes better contact. Try that. I place a quarter (briefly) across the fuse contacts. If the lights or what ever come on then the fuse was bad.

 

 

There will be a couple of fusible links usually close to the Positive battery post or it may have a wire over to a box on the passenger side inner fender that has them. One just for the lighting. One for the ignition switch that parcels it out to heater, wiper, ignition... stuff that needs to be shut off. Probably one to the fuse box for stuff that does NOT need to be shut off like brake lights, horn, interior light, clock.

 

I will say that if the starter activates then there is power to the ignition switch so it probably is sending power to the fuse box. Heater, radio and wipers might just be the fuses.

 

 

[Signal12]

SO... no go at the fuse box. I jumped them all and no response. I think I'm going to get in behind the battery and check the inline voltage regulator. I'm trying to figure out exactly where the power stops.

[datzenmike]

Then the next thing is between the box and the battery. That's the fusible links I mentioned earlier

[Signal12]

Thanks Mike.... I'll be checking it this weekend. I'll update you.....

 

Question... Have you seen the NFNZ Turbo Kit for the A14? Thoughts....

[datzenmike]

No I haven't. Boost is expensive if you keep stock internals and limit to 6-8 PSI. More, and longevity becomes very iffy. Boost is addictive because like any good drug you develop a tolerance to it and it takes more and more to get the same enjoyment out of it. Now it becomes insanely expensive if you want the engine to last even one summer.