Timing chain replacement dilemma

[Foxhound]

When I first deleted the egr I pinched of the tube as best I could. The noise it made while leaking sounded like a valve ticking that was in sync with the exhaust pulses, but I knew it was the egr tube. Maybe youre hearing a sneaky exhaust leak somewhere on the exhaust manifold to head connection. Retorque and see if it helps? 12 then 15ft-lbs.

[ElliotV]

31 minutes ago, Foxhound said:

When I first deleted the egr I pinched of the tube as best I could. The noise it made while leaking sounded like a valve ticking that was in sync with the exhaust pulses, but I knew it was the egr tube. Maybe youre hearing a sneaky exhaust leak somewhere on the exhaust manifold to head connection. Retorque and see if it helps? 12 then 15ft-lbs.

I don't think it is coming from the manifold to head connection but I do think there is a exhaust leak somewhere. I have identified 2 issues with this truck that I am hoping to address after I finish my dump truck project which is under a big time crunch to finish before I leave highschool. 

 

1 is that there is a miss at idle. I have replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires so I know those are good. I did mess with timing a little bit just to see if maybe I could hear it change and make it a little better then later finish with a timing light but I noticed it was only making the truck either idle higher with the miss(sort of a random popping out the exhaust) or it would idle down a lot and start to stumble. I got it to a spot where it sounded a little better and went for a drive and noticed when downshifting coming to a stop instead of the random pop I would get every once in a while it was pure gunshot backfiring out of the exhaust so I quickly set it back to where is was and it's back to how it was running before.

 

2nd issue is there is definitely a exhaust leak somewhere and I can hear it in the engine bay and when I am standing next to the truck. Since I do not have emissions testing in my state I plan to upgrade to a Weber 32/36 to gain some power and I am going to delete all of the extra vacuum stuff which I am sure is causing a leak somewhere as I can hear a slight vacuum hiss at idle and in addition I am going to get rid of the EGR system to avoid any issues with that and have a very clean and basic setup to remove issues later on.

 

All in all I am hoping the Weber kit will help me tidy up and get rid of vacuum leaks and if I get a chance I will go at the vacuum lines with some brake cleaner and see if I can find a line that is maybe not sealing or cracked

[Foxhound]

I just put my weber on and its running beautiful after rejetting. Feels so good to finally have some f'in power. I ordered from Redline, but if I could go back I would have went with Pierce Manifolds. You should probably grab a jet kit while you're at it.

 

On the stock carb I had some vacuum leaks at the carb to intake gaskets. Someone had almost drilled the idle mixture plug out so I went ahead and finished drilling it out. I figured Id play with the idle mixture to try and make up for the vacuum leak until the weber got put on and it helped. Before the weber I had to advance my timing to about 15° for it to run best. After adjusting the mixture screw I could get it to 10°ish without misfiring and it definitely felt more drivable.

[ElliotV]

6 hours ago, Foxhound said:

I just put my weber on and its running beautiful after rejetting. Feels so good to finally have some f'in power. I ordered from Redline, but if I could go back I would have went with Pierce Manifolds. You should probably grab a jet kit while you're at it.

 

On the stock carb I had some vacuum leaks at the carb to intake gaskets. Someone had almost drilled the idle mixture plug out so I went ahead and finished drilling it out. I figured Id play with the idle mixture to try and make up for the vacuum leak until the weber got put on and it helped. Before the weber I had to advance my timing to about 15° for it to run best. After adjusting the mixture screw I could get it to 10°ish without misfiring and it definitely felt more drivable.

I went to the pierce manifold site and could only find stuff for a z22 not z24. On the weber site I was able to find the z24 kit and they had the same part numbers listed for the other engines as well.

 

What size jets did you go with and about what is your altitude. I see a lot of people rejetting but they never say with what jets anf what their altitude is like.

 

That timing is pretty far since I think I've read with the stock carb it should be at about 3 degrees

[Foxhound]

13 hours ago, ElliotV said:

I went to the pierce manifold site and could only find stuff for a z22 not z24. On the weber site I was able to find the z24 kit and they had the same part numbers listed for the other engines as well.

 

What size jets did you go with and about what is your altitude. I see a lot of people rejetting but they never say with what jets anf what their altitude is like.

 

That timing is pretty far since I think I've read with the stock carb it should be at about 3 degrees

 

After the weber it idles fine between 0-5°. Each engine will be different for jetting even at the same altitude from what Ive gathered. I'm at sealevel and I had to up the stock 140s on primary and secondary. I have them at 150 and 155 now and it's much better than the 140s. I might have even tried larger but those were the largest in the kit from Pierce and I'm happy with the results. I also upped the idle jet from 60 to 65 to get my idle mixture between 1 3/4 turns and 2 1/4 turns out. Still need to dial it in a little more I think. The air corrector jets were stock 160 and 170 and I haven't messed with them. Maybe they could be lower, not sure.

 

Still learning and experimenting. I'm just going off drivability and feel. You'll find a lot of old threads here on the subject. One thing that was a pain in the ass to figure out was the float level. You'll find about 4 different instructions for that. I don't know if it was just my float or something. You'll see lol. I don't even want to try to tell you what it should be because it might differ for you.

 

Fairly certain I had no vacuum leaks when tuning as I didn't hook up any vacuum lines to start and carb cleaner checked everything. For now Im just so happy I'm taking a break from working on this truck for a bit. Ive fixed so many things, some little and some bigger and my list is almost all checked off. Feels good.

 

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/Weber_Conversion_Kit_K646_p/k646.htm

 

I think the jets are seperate for 60$. They come with a some nice little instructions/notes for float level, idle mixture, idle screw etc. Atleast mine did, the notes probably come in the whole kit too.

 

Edit: You can use the cable linkage from the old carb. You'll also have to drill some new holes in the bracket and move it a bit lower to not hit the weber. I opted for flipping my fuel line to the other side as well just for ease of access and to add a gauge and extra filter. There's only two ways the fuel line can connect to the same spot, either normal or reversed. If you reverse it you'll want to put the fuel inlet on the weber on the opposite side.

Edited March 8 by Foxhound