Thaiyoon Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 I'm in the process of restoring a 1970 521 pickup. Aside from a single red light coming on when I turned the key to the on position, no other dash lights, wipers, switches, headlights, etc were working before I tore the cab apart for new floor panels and paint. When I removed the electrical loom under the dash, two plunger switches were attached to the loom but were not mounted. One switch had spade connectors and is frozen in the "pushed-in" position. The other had barrel connectors (one of which was still attached to the switch before the soldered connection broke off) and makes continuous contact when not pushed in and breaks contact when pushed in. One of these goes to the brake pedal and the other is a mystery to me. I'd like to replace them both with fresh switches but not sure which one goes to brake and how to order the other. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 You should have a red oil and ignition light come on. Both should go out after starting the engine. One obviously is the brake light switch. The the other mounts to the clutch pedal and has to do with the emissions switching on and off of the second set of points in the distributor. I wouldn't bother with it as it works in tandem with a transmission switch a carburetor switch and a relay. Unlikely that all works and it it's strictly for emissions and adds nothing to the running of the 521. Quote Link to comment
Thaiyoon Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 Thanks a ton datzenmike. That's what I needed to hear. Napa has replacement brake switches and they appear to have barrel connectors. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 The switch needs to be open when the plunger is compressed by the brake pedal and connects when the pedal in depressed to turn the rear brake lights on. I think there is a small rubber pad where the switch makes contact. If missing anything will do and the switch is adjustable. Spray a little WD-40 in the stuck one and lightly hit it on a piece of wood and that plunger will likely pop out. Some of the later door/interior light switches are this way. Quote Link to comment
Thaiyoon Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 Again, Thanks Mike! I soaked that thing in penetrating oil for 2 days and gave it some light hits on the side to hopefully have it pop. I gave it to my wife (a nurse) and let her pick at it with a dental pick for an hour trying to get a little movement. No luck. Knowing I would likely replace it with a new one, but still wanting to see which direction was open, I drilled a tiny hole down the center and screwed a tiny screw in to get some leverage. No luck. I think the stuck one is the one you said I didn't need so I'll just replace the brake pedal switch with a new one (it comes with the rubber pad). Your expertise is SO appreciated. After the 70 is complete, I have a 67 to restore so I'm sure I'll be back! Quote Link to comment
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