Clutch issues 1986 Nissan 720

[zachattack]

A couple weeks back, my clutch went out.  I replaced the master and slave cylinder and bled the system and it shifted great for a day and then lost pressure.  My next plan is to replace the hose that goes from the slave to the hardline with a new braided steel one.  But while I'm working on the line I though I might go ahead and delete the clutch damper (maybe that's where my leak is) and use a two sided fitting to connect the two hard lines (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/american-grease-stick/american-grease-stick-union-fitting/ags0/blu9b/v/a/27400/automotive-car-1953-humber-hawk?q=BLU-9B&pos=0).  BUT I'm wondering whether I should try and just replace the entire hard line with a braided steel hose that goes all the way from the master to the slave (like whats done on newer vehicles).  Best match I could find is for a toyota but I just need to double check the fittings are correct. Does anyone have experience doing this? Should I just go with the damper delete only?  Just want to drive my truck!

[datzenmike]

Sounds alright. The clutch damper is just that, it dampens any harshness, though I can't for the life of me see why this is needed. There is a solid rubber 'puck' inside that, I guess, compresses and softens the pedal 'feel'. It's on the Z24 trucks and they are the ones with the much larger 140mm clutch and pressure plates. It will certainly work fine without it.

 

You did see the bleeder on the damper?

[zachattack]

Yup I bled at both the damper and the slave.  The bleed port on the damper is all rusted and the part in general look a little worse for ware so I reckon uninstalling it should help.  Thanks for the vote of confidence!