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Ok, so i recently got my '81 720 4x4 KC running, and have been sorting out some issues caused by years of neglect and previous owners mechanical disabilities.  My current problem is that a previous owner changed the rims and lug nuts, and didn't bother to get the correct thread pitch lug nuts.  And the aluminum rims are really kinda too thick for proper thread engagement, they're only getting about 3/8 inch of engagement, and I'm not really comfortable there.  


Here's my question.....  Does anybody know of a trick to replace the front wheel studs without completely disassembling the front suspension/knuckle/hub assembly like my Haynes manual is suggesting?? The problem I'm currently seeing is that the brake rotor is bolted to the back of the hub behind the wheel studs.... ANYONE????

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There may be enough room behind the hub and in front of the disc brake rotor to hammer them in and remove. Only problem I see is the longer they are the harder to get in behind and start in the hole.


Otherwise unbolt the caliper and hang SECURELY up out of the way with wire.


Remove the dust cap, straighten and remove the cotter pin, lift away the washers and loosen and remove the wheel nut.


Wiggle the hub and the outer bearing will pop outward, retrieve and keep in a clean place.


Slide hub outward and off the spindle. KEEP IT CLEAN! There is a rear or inner wheel bearing inside and a seal. Maybe place the dust cap back on to keep dirt out.


Now you can unbolt the rotor from the back side.


Secure the hub and hammer the old studs out.


Install the longer studs by tapping into place with a hammer then stack washers over the threaded end and tighten the lug nut down to draw the stud into the hub to secure it. Or use a press. 


Reverse to assemble.


Be sure all internal hub parts are well greased and in good shape.To set the wheel nut pre load first tighten 25-30 ft lbs. Turn wheel several times in both directions to seat the bearings. Check and or tighten the wheel nut 25-30 ft lbs. Turn wheel nut back 45 degrees. Install adjusting cap and tighten until any of it's grooves aline with the hole in the spindle. Instal a new cotter pin... Do not reuse the old one.


Nor sure what type of nut you are using. Some are not open on the outside and if the stud is too long will bottom out before properly clamping the rim on.

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Ok, Mr. Datzenmike nailed it for a two wheel drive truck. I happen to be working on a 4x4. Sadly most of your description seems a little off from what I'm seeing in the illustrations in my manual. This darn truck is driving me nuts. I dunno who the engineers were who designed the damn thing, but I'm starting to hate them

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One bassackwards way of getting the studs threaded further on would be to take a milling bit to remove some of the material around the holes of the rims to make that part thinner. 

In looking at the stock rims for the non 4X4s, the rim thickness around the studs is very thin.  Generic aluminum rims might be overly thick.  

I personally removed some of the material around my rims' holes on the front to get them to fit the studs better.  I compensated though for it by getting really beefy lug nuts rather than the tiny lug nuts that are standard.  If you have reduced thickness on the rim but a larger surface area of the lug nut pressing against the rim and the lug nut is threaded further down the studs, that should be a net win if you don't need to thin out the rims too much.

Here is a link to the lug nuts I bought on ebay:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/230852791553?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Just a thought.

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