l16 rear bearing seal question

[510farmer]

whats going on guys 

im replacing all the bearing and seal on my l16 

now im on the rear main seal and i have a question on the two 

the rear seals that are on the side of the bearing housing 

 

the question i have is, i bought the fel-pro gasket set and it come with the rear main seal and these seals

but they are different than the stock 

they have a dimple in the rubber and a steel shim 

the steel shim does not fit into the dimple 

 

there was no instruction in the box

so i believe that they go in the slot like this

 

has anyone have are had and experience with this fel-pro gasket set

is this rite? 

is this a mandatory must change 

is there a place where I could get seals like the ones that are already in there

thx farmer

 

 

[Guest Rick-rat]

It looks like it should go in with the shim on the bottom and the rubber the other way because of the beveled edges. Don't know for certain, just what it looks like to me

[Dime Dave]

I've installed these in several engines.

 

The "U" channel on the rubber faces outward toward the block.

 

Install the main bearing cap first (also see notes below on installing the rear main bearing cap and rear seal). Insert the rubber into the opening without the steel shim, U side toward the block. A light coat of grease or oil helps let it slip into the hole. Make sure it fully bottoms (there is usually 1/8" or so that will stick out of the hole).

 

The steel shim goes in behind the rubber and up against the bearing cap. There is a beveled "chisel" edge on one end of the shim that should go into the hole first. Place the point of the chisel edge against the bearing cap and away from the rubber. Use a hammer to tap the steel shim into place until it is flush with the block. By keeping the chisel edge against the bearing cap it helps keep from tearing the rubber as the shim is driven into place.  The shim should go fully into the hole with none left above the gasket surface.

 

The rubber will stick above the gasket surface and will need to be cut flush with a razor blade once the shim is in place.

 

Main Bearing Cap Sealant - It is very important to use a small bead of silicone sealant at the corners of the main bearing cap register where the cap corners seat against the block (the beads will be parallel to the crankshaft at the corners in the block where the cap installs). The corresponding leading edge corners of the rear main bearing cap (where it bottoms against the block) have a very slight 45 degree bevel to them. If you don't use sealant at this location there will be a small gap between the bearing cap and the block that will create an oil leak. Always keep the surfaces where sealant is being installed free of grease/oil to assure a good bond.

 

Rear Main Seal - Install the rear main seal on the crank before installing the crankshaft into the block. Lubricate the seal both ID & OD before installing. Keep the seal squared and in position with the block register before installing the main bearing cap. By installing the seal with the crank you will lower the risk of damage from driving it into position later.

 

I hope this helps.

[datzenmike]

This

[510farmer]

I've installed these in several engines.

 

The "U" channel on the rubber faces outward toward the block.

 

Install the main bearing cap first (also see notes below on installing the rear main bearing cap and rear seal). Insert the rubber into the opening without the steel shim, U side toward the block. A light coat of grease or oil helps let it slip into the hole. Make sure it fully bottoms (there is usually 1/8" or so that will stick out of the hole).

 

The steel shim goes in behind the rubber and up against the bearing cap. There is a beveled "chisel" edge on one end of the shim that should go into the hole first. Place the point of the chisel edge against the bearing cap and away from the rubber. Use a hammer to tap the steel shim into place until it is flush with the block. By keeping the chisel edge against the bearing cap it helps keep from tearing the rubber as the shim is driven into place.  The shim should go fully into the hole with none left above the gasket surface.

 

The rubber will stick above the gasket surface and will need to be cut flush with a razor blade once the shim is in place.

 

Main Bearing Cap Sealant - It is very important to use a small bead of silicone sealant at the corners of the main bearing cap register where the cap corners seat against the block (the beads will be parallel to the crankshaft at the corners in the block where the cap installs). The corresponding leading edge corners of the rear main bearing cap (where it bottoms against the block) have a very slight 45 degree bevel to them. If you don't use sealant at this location there will be a small gap between the bearing cap and the block that will create an oil leak. Always keep the surfaces where sealant is being installed free of grease/oil to assure a good bond.

 

Rear Main Seal - Install the rear main seal on the crank before installing the crankshaft into the block. Lubricate the seal both ID & OD before installing. Keep the seal squared and in position with the block register before installing the main bearing cap. By installing the seal with the crank you will lower the risk of damage from driving it into position later.

 

I hope this helps.

THX For the info one more question about the rear main seal

you state to install the main seal over the crank while the crank is out 

to limit damage to the seal 

but wouldn't that interfere with the torque settings when tightening down the rear bearing cap?

thx farmer

[Dime Dave]

Installing the rear main seal before torqueing down the main I suppose would offer some resistance and minimally altering the clamping force.

 

But if you think about it doesn't jamming the seal into an already torqued connection alter it as well?

 

The amount the seal changes things is likely so minimal I don't think it matters. I've always installed the seal then torqued down the main and never had a problem. Its an old habit I picked up rebuilding air cooled VW engines years ago.