StewyN Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 So im at a wall, i have the z24 8 plug engine, its gotta deiseling and weird idle problem. Ive cleaned and gapped the plugs, tied up some loose vacuum lines, the fast idle cam was worn smooth, (now replaced).... and i dont know where to go from there. This problem just occured one day, didnt get worse over time. I did the tune up and other stuff AFTER the problem started. But it still has issues. It doesnt happen every time i drive it, only about 50% of the time.. kinda hit and miss. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 Check the choke is shutting off when warmed up. Choke heater working intermittent, Perhaps sticky linkage. Check that the fast idle is off when warmed up. Perhaps sticky linkage. If engine idles high perhaps throttle worn on carb, cable too tight or sticking. Try spraying WD-40 or carb cleaner on carb linkages and moving them through their full range of motion to clean/clear them. Quote Link to comment
StewyN Posted May 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 well i got to checking the auto choke and found that the spring inside is worn out or something ( choke is riveted on, so i cant check for sure) theres no tention what so ever on the fast idle arm. how do i go about fixing that? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Drill the rivets out, its easy since they are aluminum. 3 screws can then be put in. You may find the choke is OK.after adjustment. If not a $25 ford or Weber choke fits right on. Quote Link to comment
StewyN Posted May 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 Well i did that, its still not adjustadle tho, theres a groove a tooth setting it in one position. Spring was worn out tho so i swapped for a better one off spare part carb. Any one know where to find a good diagram on setting the fast idle cam? i just kinda geussed. Gonna throw it on and see how it does... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 The fast idle cam never needs adjustment except when first assembling the carb. Fast idle is 1600-2400 rpm. There is an adjustment screw for this purpose. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 Yeah leave alone, should be fine still. My Z24 carb had a tab that prevents the choke from turning to adjust it. They are pre set and locked in place at the factory. A little trimming will remove this problem and make it adjust. Quote Link to comment
StewyN Posted May 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 well thats what i meant, how do i adjust the fast idle screw? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 You shouldn't have to it isn't going to change. There is a linkage that drops a stepped plastic part the the throttle closes against that holds it open. Quote Link to comment
StewyN Posted June 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 well i played with all that, it ran better than ever for about a week. now it has a terrible sputter/backfire (yes ive checked ALL vacuum lines) it seems to have problems when i punch the gas, well after actually. itll run great once i get it there but it seems like if i ever gotta get up and go, it immediately has complications... any thoughts? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Check the fuel level in the little round glass window on the carb front when idling. Should be at the dot. Quote Link to comment
StewyN Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 it sets perfectly on the dot...everything is set up how it shuld be, egr valve possibly? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 To test the EGR, on a cold engine, start it and stick a finger in the EGR valve and push a little. If the engine stumbles you know the valve was sealing good. Do this before the valve gets hot so you dont burn yourself. Datsun EGR rarely causes a problem Far more common cause of sputter/backfire/ problems when i punch the gas" is contaminated fuel bowl. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 well i played with all that, it ran better than ever for about a week. now it has a terrible sputter/backfire (yes ive checked ALL vacuum lines) it seems to have problems when i punch the gas, well after actually. itll run great once i get it there but it seems like if i ever gotta get up and go, it immediately has complications... any thoughts? A part blocked primary jet would give poor off idle acceleration and lean backfire. 1 Quote Link to comment
StewyN Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 i was betting on something like that i put some enzyme stuff and a little lucas but it still sputters, am i looking at a carb rebuild? and as for the sputter it doesnt only happen when i punch the thottle, thats what sets it off. it was running great and i had to floor it to miss a car and ever since it *sput**sput**sput* Quote Link to comment
StewyN Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 under a good enough load it seems to do alright tho its mainly at low or idle speeds Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Not a rebuild scenario contaminated fuel bowl results in a part blocked primary jet Just rinse the fuel bowl out. No need to remove the carb from the engine. We talk about this every month, see previous topics. Quote Link to comment
StewyN Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 so cleaned out the bowl (it shines now), still sputering and bogging, palyed with the timing, idle, and air/fuel mix but no change....what am i missing? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 You are missing the cause and solution. Dirty fuel bowl is common and only takes a few minutes to drain. But it is not the only cause of sputtering and bogging. Next I would test the fuel pump volume, or clean the primary jet. Does it run good when cold? If so the coil may be going out. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 To test the coil, swap the intake & exhaust coils. If it runs better, then you know you need 1 coil replaced. 1 Quote Link to comment
StewyN Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 i dont think it would be the pump, i replaced that about a year ago. how do i go about locating and cleaning the primary? it does do a little better when cold but not much, it still bogs but not as constant as when its hot Quote Link to comment
StewyN Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 swapped the wires on the coils, no real noticable differance Quote Link to comment
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